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3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 967948)
What I want to know is how you ship something like that. Im guessing what I have cut is about 30 lbs. Here it is mostly finished, next up is the splitter/front diffuser https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358122324 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358122324 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358122324 |
Wow, that is a flat bottom !!
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So ... where does the heat go?
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Wouldn't air coming in the front grill still get trapped above the flat bottom?
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Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 968030)
So ... where does the heat go?
Originally Posted by wannafbody
(Post 968038)
Wouldn't air coming in the front grill still get trapped above the flat bottom?
There is a about a 1" gap between the panel and the steering box, which will have a opening in the front air dam to channel the air into this space. The air trapped under the hood will be going out vents in the hood, I haven't got to working on yet due to the cold temps outside. I will be mocking it up to match the vents on the German Touring Car. I also have a 1" hood spacer with the rear hood seal removed. To give an idea of how much air is going through the channel (4 inch space between the frame rails) I will put wind speed guage in there then drive to 60, 80, then 100 mph. I'm guessing 5 to 1 would be a goal for now(100 mph speed with 20 mph air speed) |
Assuming you are intending to use the car competetively, it's key to make things as light as possible. 30+ lbs is a lot for the flat panel, before even adding brackets and hardware.
For reference, my flat underbody is 11 lbs including all hardware and brackets. (I just did a redesign for the brackets and hardware to save weight - now <200 grams total) Not trying to detract at all from what you're doing, I'm really encouraged to see people getting deep into aero development for miatas. Just trying to inspire you/everyone to try to make the best pieces they can. -Ryan |
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 968063)
If you are going through the trouble to make a flat bottom, you're doing so to go fast in a competetive environment. If you want to go fast in a competetive environment, weight is the enemy. Therefore, it's key to make things as light as possible. 30+ lbs is a lot for the flat panel, before even adding brackets and hardware.
For reference, my flat underbody is 11 lbs including all hardware and brackets (I just did a redesign for the brackets and hardware to save weight - now <200 grams total) Not trying to detract at all from what you're doing, I'm really encouraged to see people getting deep into aero development for miatas. Just trying to inspire you/everyone to try to make the best pieces they can. -Ryan |
Originally Posted by 1993ka24det
(Post 968053)
I also have a 1" hood spacer with the rear hood seal removed.
All you need is a vent just in front of the engine. |
Since the topic of aluminum is going on. Has anyone heard of 3003? I don't have much knowledge on metals. I bought a sheet of 3003 that I need bent and every fabrication shop I talk to has no clue what I'm talking about.
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Originally Posted by Dot3
(Post 968105)
Since the topic of aluminum is going on. Has anyone heard of 3003? I don't have much knowledge on metals. I bought a sheet of 3003 that I need bent and every fabrication shop I talk to has no clue what I'm talking about.
Not nearly as popular as the 50xx, 60xx, and 70xx aluminums. "Applications: cooking utensils, decorative trim, awnings, siding, storage tanks, chemical equipment." |
Originally Posted by StarletRick
(Post 968079)
This is a very bad idea that will hinder more than help. if you remove the rubber strip, the hook actually sucks air in and hinders flow through the rad.
All you need is a vent just in front of the engine. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 968145)
Ricer fanbois do many things wrong and lifting the rear of the hood is one of them. Don't use them for inspiration.
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Originally Posted by Vilko
(Post 968356)
Some people have them to lower their engine bay temps when they are having trouble melting shit. Not useful on a grip car, but maybe on a drift car.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by rharris19
(Post 968363)
Then they need to properly isolate the parts that are melting from the heat source. By raising the rear of the hood, you increase pressure under the hood and decrease the amount of heat that can escape. Unless your firewall directly underneath the hood is the issue, it will hurt things.
Attachment 185669 |
Good CAD model, do you have any more models or do you have the program
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Originally Posted by 1993ka24det
(Post 968378)
Good CAD model, do you have any more models or do you have the program
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How do so many aero theads divert into trying to explain to someone that hood risers are utterly useless? By how many times its been gone over by now, I'm surprised it even comes up any more.
-Ryan |
Originally Posted by Vilko
(Post 968356)
Some people have them to lower their engine bay temps when they are having trouble melting shit. Not useful on a grip car, but maybe on a drift car.
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Originally Posted by plucas
(Post 968382)
It is my CAD model of the miata. I have more models of other vehicles. I use them for cfd.
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Originally Posted by 1993ka24det
(Post 968429)
I guessing its a 3D flow model. Do you have any CAD models of any Dive Planes (Canards). One other thing I was wondering is, If the Dive Plane is to low. Will the vortices shove more air under the car or will it do its job better by keeping the air from going under the car from the side?
"Will the vortices shove more air under the car or will it do its job better by keeping the air from going under the car from the side?" It depends like all generic aerodynamic questions lol. You can design aero bits that can cause vortices that "seal" the sides to prevent air from spilling under the car. The vortices will act like skirts to seal the bottom ;) If you have an actual design you are thinking of, I might be able to give you a better answer than depends. |
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