i seen a old thread with someone talking about using a mazda comp mount on the driver side, and solid derlin on the passeger.

im wondering if anyone had any reviews on this.

i'm still leaning towards awr 75a mounts.

 

It's Delrin.

Don't make bad decisions.

 

Delrin will make you have a bad day. AWR is all you will need if the comp ones won't hold your power.

 

Take the wisdom from others that tried and skip delrin based mounts.

 

Delrin is a terrible choice for motor mount material.

 

Thank you for making it easy I'll just got with awr's

 

Do awr move the position of the motor?

 

Not intentionally.

 

AWR Motor Mounts @ Trackspeed Engineering

In stock

 

I believe the point is that they keep the position from moving.

 

I can't imagine any need for stiffer mounts than AWR's at any level of race car. BP engine creates some serious vibration that will rattle bolts loose all over the chassis without some vibration Isolation and the AWR's have minimal amounts of vibration isolation already.

I just modified mine to move the engine 1.5" aft of the stock location in the car.

 

Cut and weld the PPF? Or something else? Total thread drift I want to see it! I've got to ditch the CAS first but I'd love to do something similar.

 

Basically just drilled another hole and moved the PPF back one hole spacing where it mounts to the Diff. There is enough room at the firewall so no cutting is required. Shift hole in the trans tunnel needs a little bit of modification though. I ditched the CAS and had a custom drive shaft made.

I re-made the part of the AWR mount that bolts to the sub frame to accommodate the shift in engine location.

 

I second the request for photos, even of just the mounts, as this sounds like something I've been trying to figure out to do.

Sorry for the thread Jack

 

+1 would love to see pics of bbundy's reduced polar moment engine location.

 

continued thread drift....

Hopefully without sounding disparaging.....cause its a pretty cool mod.

I understand the theory of moving the engine closer to the centre of mass but do you have more concrete goals for the move?

i.e. improved feel, less body roll/ improve C of G, polar moment etc equating to faster lap times, better tyre wear....???

or just because it was a good idea and project at the time....

also, how do you remove the CAS? I hate all the extra crap bolted to the motor. removing the CAS seems like a good mod as well.

 

I’m doing it because I think moving the engine back is better for polar moment and static weight distribution, it didn’t seem too hard or costly to do not counting my labor. Even with 275/35/15 A6 tires mounted on 11” wheels I’m straight line traction limited for a good bit of the powerband in second gear doing SCCA autocross so a bit more weight on the rear even small amounts helps. Heck even 10 to 20 lbs of aero makes a noticeable difference I have found.

It’s allowed to do this in the class I’m running as long as the firewall is not modified for clearance of head or block. Technically clearance for the CAS would be legal however as well as a motor swap to anything Mazda ever put in any model production car. With the stock motor you might get 2” before hitting the firewall with the head or block.

I’m moving the driver back with the drivetrain as well as front swaybar and probably radiator. So I think I might notice a difference.

As far as removing the CAS, NB Miatas came stock without A CAS. They used a crank trigger at the front engine behind the damper and a small cam sensor in the front of the valve cover on NB1 and on top of the valve cover on an NB2 and just had a plug where the NA CAS was. I’m going to be using a 36-2 crank trigger and a 99 NB1 cam trigger for engine management.

I chose 1.5” because it seemed easy. Just flipped the hole pattern at the back end of the PPF and cut off the excess.

 

Cool, it'll be interesting to hear your post mod feel of the change.

 

Looks like this mod will also eliminate the space needed for a coolant reroute and possibly the coil packs for those that still use the stock ones.

 

Bob, Did it involve shortening the driveshaft?