motor mount hybrid mc/derlin
#11
I can't imagine any need for stiffer mounts than AWR's at any level of race car. BP engine creates some serious vibration that will rattle bolts loose all over the chassis without some vibration Isolation and the AWR's have minimal amounts of vibration isolation already.
I just modified mine to move the engine 1.5" aft of the stock location in the car.
I just modified mine to move the engine 1.5" aft of the stock location in the car.
#13
I re-made the part of the AWR mount that bolts to the sub frame to accommodate the shift in engine location.
#14
Basically just drilled another hole and moved the PPF back one hole spacing where it mounts to the Diff. There is enough room at the firewall so no cutting is required. Shift hole in the trans tunnel needs a little bit of modification though. I ditched the CAS and had a custom drive shaft made.
I re-made the part of the AWR mount that bolts to the sub frame to accommodate the shift in engine location.
I re-made the part of the AWR mount that bolts to the sub frame to accommodate the shift in engine location.
Sorry for the thread Jack
#16
continued thread drift....
Hopefully without sounding disparaging.....cause its a pretty cool mod.
I understand the theory of moving the engine closer to the centre of mass but do you have more concrete goals for the move?
i.e. improved feel, less body roll/ improve C of G, polar moment etc equating to faster lap times, better tyre wear....???
or just because it was a good idea and project at the time....
also, how do you remove the CAS? I hate all the extra crap bolted to the motor. removing the CAS seems like a good mod as well.
Hopefully without sounding disparaging.....cause its a pretty cool mod.
I understand the theory of moving the engine closer to the centre of mass but do you have more concrete goals for the move?
i.e. improved feel, less body roll/ improve C of G, polar moment etc equating to faster lap times, better tyre wear....???
or just because it was a good idea and project at the time....
also, how do you remove the CAS? I hate all the extra crap bolted to the motor. removing the CAS seems like a good mod as well.
Last edited by mx5-kiwi; 12-30-2014 at 12:54 AM. Reason: a second thought...
#17
continued thread drift....
Hopefully without sounding disparaging.....cause its a pretty cool mod.
I understand the theory of moving the engine closer to the centre of mass but do you have more concrete goals for the move?
i.e. improved feel, less body roll/ improve C of G, polar moment etc equating to faster lap times, better tyre wear....???
or just because it was a good idea and project at the time....
also, how do you remove the CAS? I hate all the extra crap bolted to the motor. removing the CAS seems like a good mod as well.
Hopefully without sounding disparaging.....cause its a pretty cool mod.
I understand the theory of moving the engine closer to the centre of mass but do you have more concrete goals for the move?
i.e. improved feel, less body roll/ improve C of G, polar moment etc equating to faster lap times, better tyre wear....???
or just because it was a good idea and project at the time....
also, how do you remove the CAS? I hate all the extra crap bolted to the motor. removing the CAS seems like a good mod as well.
It’s allowed to do this in the class I’m running as long as the firewall is not modified for clearance of head or block. Technically clearance for the CAS would be legal however as well as a motor swap to anything Mazda ever put in any model production car. With the stock motor you might get 2” before hitting the firewall with the head or block.
I’m moving the driver back with the drivetrain as well as front swaybar and probably radiator. So I think I might notice a difference.
As far as removing the CAS, NB Miatas came stock without A CAS. They used a crank trigger at the front engine behind the damper and a small cam sensor in the front of the valve cover on NB1 and on top of the valve cover on an NB2 and just had a plug where the NA CAS was. I’m going to be using a 36-2 crank trigger and a 99 NB1 cam trigger for engine management.
I chose 1.5” because it seemed easy. Just flipped the hole pattern at the back end of the PPF and cut off the excess.