Import your txt file to excel tab/comma delimited, then save, otherwise it produces gibberish.

I make a little reminder like every other day to confirm my avg hp and I forget every.single.time when I get home.


Back to the front-spring bit. I'm on 800/500, 1.125f/144m ~2450lbs 4.25"f/4.5"r 205 R7s on 9s(obviously) currently and I've noticed more tire contact into frame issues. Thinking about going to 900/500 to maybe help prevent that. I suppose I could go to a 1.25" front bar to help that contact under roll, but I like the car's balance currently. I'd be afraid 1.25" bar up front would cause more push than I want. Entry is good, mid-corner and exit are ok with a slight lean to pushing.

You are better off buying some shock packers or make spacers for your upper mounts to lower the shocks.

Messing up an otherwise perfect balance to try and fix tire rub is bad tuning logic.

Marcus - I carry a few jounce spacers with me to the track and occasionally add one to a corner if I'm getting a lot of tire/apron contact in a specific corner.

These:
https://www.jegs.com/p/Specialty-Pro...-1?Ns=P_Margin 0 P_SKU 0

Shock mount spacers preferred as they don't use up shock stroke but packers will do in a pinch.

...or just shoot me your file and I'll get it sorted it out. It's kind of a PITA depending on how it was exported. If it was exported with headers it takes a bit more finagling to get it working. Also, I remember looking at your dyno vs mine and it seemed you make more peak torque / area under the curve so likely have higher avg. Maybe I should spend some time working on that mid-range :P

Man this tool has some issues. Finally got it to go by exporting with comma separated.RPM at the Maximum HP (RmHP):6500Maximum HP:136Maximum RPM:7250Avg HP:132Forced Induction?No2001, stock from oil pan to valve cover, RB header, 2001 intake with removed butterflies, Megasquirt, minimal tuning and for this one no detune.

Do you guys spin your motors higher since you don't have to worry about the heads eating themselves?

I certainly don't and flier is on OEM ECU so should be at 7200(?).

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b929284235.jpg

Attachment 228630

Odd. I'm guessing there is a lot being left on the table on the top end of this motor since it doesn't really drop off much towards red line.

edit: Contingency website is back up. Hawk looks unchainged. Mazda look to be the same, but more money and some benefit to NCs in ST5. Hoosier/Toyo/Maxxis aren't up yet.

The difference at 4800rpm is lulz worthy with my 105 vs your 112. Guess I should go find me a 6 speed :p I know some of that is VVT, but man my mid-range really sucks. Need to work on that. Mine doesn't fall off as much at top end (7000 is the point at which it plateaus and would start falling off), because BP4W w/ BP5A and VICS intake mani. It's an unopened ~65k motor other than maintenance and cam.

Looks like I've got a case of bad data in, bad data out.

The RPM signal was lost on my higher hp pulls :( This was done at the track, might have to go to the dyno.... ugh.
Attachment 228633


FYI my limiter is 7500rpm since I have a reflashed ecu.

As per usual didn't capture my best lap, USB cable backed out and the battery holds for all of a couple of minutes at most. Got 2nd on Saturday with a 1:48.891, new TT6 record is 1:48.245 (Whitener). First on Sunday (1:49.008) only because Whiteners car broke. Optimals were mid-1:48 on best sessions, just never put the whole lap together in money (morning) sessions or before my SM7's from champs started falling off. They felt reaaaalllly slidey compared to when they were stickers, but overall liked how the car felt with 800f/400r with RB/Supermiata sways.

Ride height/rake and bar adjustment position plz.

I'll have to go get exact measurements, but I run from just over 4.5" to just under 4.75" pinch. Driver front is lowest, the other three corners are pretty close. The driver side has more rake, while passenger side has almost no rake. Not sure if my car is bent, frame rails are just a bit off, ???, but eh, it's corner balanced so I haven't worried about it. Ran rear sway at both medium and soft, but settled on medium. Soft inspired a bit more confidence, but at the espense of push. Having sway bars back oversteer didn't seem as detrimental, was much more predictable/easier to catch than 1000/400 with OEM sways.

Alignment was -3.2f / -2.6r (camber limited out back, need to go lower on ride height I presume), 4.8 caster, no toe f and 1/16th rear. For hoosiers I definitely need more camber, but that's one of my bigger street car compromises.

On a different note, Sonoma/Thunderhill are to become my new home tracks in the near future. My car will, uh, likely never be remotely capable of CA legality so maybe it's time to go full rasskor ST6/SuperMiata.

With new R7s (and an OS Giken) you would have probably been .5-1.0 seconds faster.

Here is my hub failure from Saturday race 2:

Maybe, maybe not. Just kinda sad I'm moving and won't be able to compete the rest of the season. You've been forcing me to dig even deeper into driving and car setup, we certainly were on the road to having some good fights. That hub failure is scary, glad it happened in a spot with a lot of run off at least.

After being loaded up with tires (trunk mount rack) and tools my ride heights are all wonky. I'll measure again after I drive around a bit and let OEM bushing settle back to normal ride heights...unless they really are just all jacked up right now. Here's some video to show how the car was handling, though. This was on pace to be another 1:48.9-49.0 until I completely botched Diamonds Edge (end of back straight).

Dang that was way more dramatic than when my hub failed and wheel flew off at Barber in 2017 lol.


BTW David!
Attachment 228632

How are hub failures still a thing in The Year Of Our Lord 2019?

I'm still running factory front hubs straight from Hiroshima circa November 1996 with approx 75k miles and going on 3rd season of TT.

...and now I shall replace them before the hub gods strike me down.