Originally Posted by tomiboy
(Post 1245686)
This will be next if the reroute doesn't do the trick
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While I have no regrets going to the TSE radiator, I didn't really need need it. Andrew just talked me into it while I was buying several other things from him.
At 300hp my smaller aluminum radiator was doing a pretty good job holding temps below dangerous levels in 100º heat with full radiator cowling. Do the cowling first, then, if necessary, give Andrew all your monies. |
M-tuned reroute is done with 94-00 head gasket. New 949 water pump. Ducting all redone. (went a little crazy with "Great Stuff"!) Removal of AC fan. Moved my FMIC back closer to the rotrex oil cooler to allow a larger path of air around it to the radiator. I have a track day July13. There are (5) 1/2 hour sessions so I ought to know if there is any improvement. If there isn't there will be a (mostly) very nice street legal track Miata for sale!
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Has anyone figured out a way to fit 2 fans with the bigass TSE radiator in an NB with a 1.125" front bar? Objective is best a/c with stop'n'go driving.
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 1246809)
Has anyone figured out a way to fit 2 fans with the bigass TSE radiator in an NB with a 1.125" front bar? Objective is best a/c with stop'n'go driving.
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 1246809)
Has anyone figured out a way to fit 2 fans with the bigass TSE radiator in an NB with a 1.125" front bar? Objective is best a/c with stop'n'go driving.
I think it's a lot easier (possible) to use a smaller radiator, and bigger fans. |
3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1246843)
I think it's impossible from the pics I've seen of that radiator in a NB.
I think it's a lot easier (possible) to use a smaller radiator, and bigger fans. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436219563 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436219563 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436219563 Note that the TSE rad only has one set of fan mounts welded to it, so you'd need to address that before you could even think about fore/aft clearance. --Ian |
Good to see I'm not the only fan of the aluminized tape!
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Drove the car to and from work today... about 25 minute drive each way. It was pretty cool today. 60s. Temps would not go over 180*! That's a first! Normally, even with the 180*tsat it goes right up to at least 195* right away. I got a CEL PO128. I think that's thermostat is stuck open. Is the computer looking for it to heat up to 195* in a certain time? I'll live with the CEL if I get lower temps
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One thing I am seeing is you do not have the plastic undertray that goes behind the radiator.
You might have the entire front ducted so whatever goes into the front bodywork gets forced though the radiator, good, but the air flows due to a pressure differential. Right now what is likely happening is that air is going under the bumper and then when it passes the radiatior is spilling up and causing all the air in the enginebay to be turbulent. By installing the undertray (or some other ducting that goes along the bottom and sides ) it creates a low pressure zone behind the radiator and the engine bay, helping suck hot air out along the trans tunnel The air in the engine bay is being slightly pressurized and/or backflow due to this turbulent air, so the flow from the ducted side of the rad into the engine bay is poor at speed. If the undertray was in place the engine bay pressure would be lower and then the air would move itself though the radiator faster, thus transferring heat out of the rad system at the same time. |
That is CODRUS, not me. I believe he was just showing the fan clearance not asking for help. I have my belly pan in place, although it is butchered up to fit!!
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Yeah, Ian (Codrus) has his shit on lock, no worries there.
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Originally Posted by tomiboy
(Post 1246772)
Moved my FMIC back closer to the rotrex oil cooler to allow a larger path of air around it to the radiator.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1247661)
Yeah, Ian (Codrus) has his shit on lock, no worries there.
The under tray was off in those shots because I was installing crap at the time, it gets put on for track days. Sometimes I'm lazy about putting it back on after taking it off to do something, it hasn't proven to be necessary for keeping the car cool on the street in San Jose. Actually, the only time the car has ever overheated on the street was when I tried to run the AC in Las Vegas with ambient temps of 117F. That was a decade and many cooling system revisions ago. --Ian |
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1247697)
Moving the IC back to allow more air around it and over it made a big difference for me when I first installed my turbo. I originally had the IC way up in the bumper mouth and it was stifling the airflow badly. Moving it back helped a lot. Then as I turned up the power, the engine oil cooler had to be added, and the triple pass radiator with Spal fan and shroud (still has A/C). Even with the silly A/C condenser in the way it seems to be doing pretty well in reasonably hot weather on the track. I haven't run it in the middle of the summer here since the rad/Spal addition because it is miserable to try, even with a cool shirt.
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If you look at the top of the bumper mouth there is some room to trim both the bumper cover and black plastic inner bumper to give another inch or two of inlet area through the mouth most of the way across. I also sealed the huge gaps between the bumper cover and black inner bumper with cut blocks of upholstery foam. There are openings big enough to put your fist through that bleed off air towards the outsides and into the wheelwells.
Upholstery foam is cheap at any fabric store. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1248060)
If you look at the top of the bumper mouth there is some room to trim both the bumper cover and black plastic inner bumper to give another inch or two of inlet area through the mouth most of the way across. I also sealed the huge gaps between the bumper cover and black inner bumper with cut blocks of upholstery foam. There are openings big enough to put your fist through that bleed off air towards the outsides and into the wheelwells.
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Yes, I opened mine up. And I sealed up inside the bumper cover as I mentioned (which is probably even more important than making the opening larger). I'm having some browser conflicts with trying to get to my photobucket pictures, though.
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1247985)
...Conversely, don't some people purposefully duct such that all air is forced through FMIC, Condensor, Radiator in that order (zero bypass)?</p><p>...
Ended up un-sealing them so the radiator could get some clean air, which helped a lot at keeping the radiator happy. |
^Yes. It is more important that the radiator get air than the intercooler.
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