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Old 05-12-2015, 12:47 PM   #1
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Default Need ideas on how to bring coolant temps down on track

I've read the thread on cooling, but still have some questions some of you may be able to help with.

I have an 02 with a Rotrex SC. It is mainly used for track days. I have the intercooled Rotrex kit with an AEM FIC piggy and 420 RX8 injectors and a good tune. Smaller pulley..10 PSI, 207 RWHP. Stock 12" x 6" FMIC, AC condenser removed and the Rotrex oil cooler in front of an FM crossflow radiator. Stock fans with the AC fan wired to come on with the driver side fan (just did this and haven't tried on track yet). I had highish temps on track last year 220 was quite common. It makes it hard to concentrate on driving while worrying about my temps. I also have an FM oil cooler. I ran 100% distilled water with redline water wetter. My heater is still functional. I have a vented hood. I have ducted around the radiator the best I can. 180* Stant Superstat. I do NOT have a reroute. Some of my ideas to lower my temps are:

1.) Do a reroute and head gasket from 90-99 (cannot figure out how this will lower my temperatures, seems like it could only even them out)

2.) PWR fin and tube IC in lieu of the plate and frame (seems they allow more air through to the radiator) I actually picked up an MSM IC to try (it is a fin and tube) it’s only 8” X 8” …maybe enough for a Rotrex?

3.) Relocate Rotrex oil cooler to wheel well. I like this idea but I already have brake ducts in my fog light openings and IC piping in there. It will be one hell of a trick to get that all in there and get enough airflow to the Rotrex cooler.

What are your thoughts???
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:51 PM   #2
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Out of your list I would honestly do the reroute imo.

Try to jump on Skou's next batch group buy for the rear cnc coolant spacer (its amazeballs quality)

Everything else for the reroute you'll have to acquire obviously.
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:52 PM   #3
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1) the 94-00 gasket is to be used with re-route. without one, it will do nothing.
2) don't use the oem msm intercooler. it sucks
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Old 05-14-2015, 04:09 PM   #4
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In addition to V's comments:

- Better ducting. Post photos of what you've got right now? Consider modifying the front crash structure to allow better airflow to the radiator (I'd outsource this to a race fabricator rather than DIY).

- Remove the AC fan, it's just in the way at track speeds. Mount the oil cooler on the back of the rad where the other fan used to be.

- TSE rad gives more cooling than FM.

--Ian
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Old 05-14-2015, 04:42 PM   #5
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A reroute increases cooling for the following reasons:

1. The coolant picks up more heat from the engine because it has to traverse all cylinders. No shortcuts allowed.

2. With the spacer + Kia waterneck reroute, the water balance is altered so that more water flows to the radiator rather than the heater core. You'll notice after installing a reroute that your heater doesn't work as well. The increased flow to the radiator results in quite a bit more heat transfer. I don't know whether those with remote thermostats like M-tuned also see this effect.

3. Going to the earlier HG opens up flow passages through the engine. Again, more flow = more cooling. Mazda achieved the heat transfer balance in the 01+ engines by closing off holes in the HG. So, good at OEM levels, not so good at your levels.

Good luck. Looking at your mod list, I'd recommend spending less time on FM's website and more time here. FM has some good stuff, but choose carefully.

Last edited by hornetball; 05-14-2015 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 05-14-2015, 10:20 PM   #6
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I vote remove ac fan first, then TSE rad & reroute if that doesn't do it.

Möbius 2.0 will run the TSE rad because Ijustdon'twannafuckwithcoolingnomore.
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Old 05-15-2015, 01:09 AM   #7
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That is if Mobius 2.0 runs a miata radiator....
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Old 05-16-2015, 12:07 AM   #8
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scirocco style crossflow ftw
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:29 PM   #9
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#2 had a huge effect on my car.
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Old 06-11-2015, 02:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codrus View Post
In addition to V's comments:

- Better ducting. Post photos of what you've got right now? Consider modifying the front crash structure to allow better airflow to the radiator (I'd outsource this to a race fabricator rather than DIY).

- Remove the AC fan, it's just in the way at track speeds. Mount the oil cooler on the back of the rad where the other fan used to be.

- TSE rad gives more cooling than FM.

--Ian
I may try your second idea since it's free. This would allow more flow through rad and close up the hole in my undertray that allows air through existing oil cooler and into engine bay

Will do a reroute also (with 90-99 head gasket)
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Old 06-11-2015, 03:52 PM   #11
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Old 06-12-2015, 12:41 AM   #12
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Any tube and fin intercooler should flow significantly more air through it.

MSM intercooler might be enough for a rotrex. Worth a try if you already own it.
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Old 06-12-2015, 07:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
1) the 94-00 gasket is to be used with re-route. without one, it will do nothing.
2) don't use the oem msm intercooler. it sucks
But I thought is had more capacity than the non-MSM?

And from the Cooling Thread, Post#378: "To add another data point, we ran a stock plastic end tank automatic radiator fully ducted from an airdam with a reroute and blocked open thermostat on a stock horsepower racecar for 14 hours this weekend. Coolant temps never rose above 190 F on a 85 F ambient day. "

?
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Old 06-12-2015, 09:27 PM   #14
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Intercooler not radiator.
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Old 06-13-2015, 12:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Intercooler not radiator.
that makes sense. and yes, after pulling the oil cooler sized intercooler off my msm they are stupid.
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Old 07-01-2015, 02:19 PM   #16
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PWR IC didn't help. Reroute with 94-00 head gasket going in now.
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Old 07-01-2015, 08:13 PM   #17
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomiboy View Post
1.) Do a reroute and head gasket from 90-99 (cannot figure out how this will lower my temperatures, seems like it could only even them out)
The coolant flows through the heater core much slower since the pipes are smaller and of course the heater core blocks flow as well. This gives the water more time to pick up heat from the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th cylinder before going out. Since the sensor is at that outlet the measurement is high.

When you have a big outlet however theres more water flowing through to pick up the heat so the overall temp is lower.

You have a fixed heat output from the engine and you're changing the amount of water you throw at it. Does that make sense?
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
This will be next if the reroute doesn't do the trick
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:13 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
The coolant flows through the heater core much slower since the pipes are smaller and of course the heater core blocks flow as well. This gives the water more time to pick up heat from the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th cylinder before going out. Since the sensor is at that outlet the measurement is high.

When you have a big outlet however theres more water flowing through to pick up the heat so the overall temp is lower.

You have a fixed heat output from the engine and you're changing the amount of water you throw at it. Does that make sense?
Yes!
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