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New GridLife Touring Cup series

 
Old 12-25-2018, 11:39 PM
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Default New GridLife Touring Cup series

New W2W series within the Gridlife weekends. Many of us fit in here well. The farther you get away from 12.5:1 the crazier the min weight gets.

Introducing The #GRIDLIFE TOURING CUP (GLTC) ? #GRIDLIFE
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Old 12-26-2018, 10:06 AM
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A Christmas present... new rules to benchrace over, sweet!!


I think it works well with STL and ST5 cross-overs. There's some other classes that I'm missing for sure. I like this rule-set more than the RM "club". Though I know this had a lot more thought put into it.

The pointy end of this class in a NA/NB would be something like Ryan's chassis, but ballasted up to 2265lbs with 166rwhp flat from a TSE kit A more realistic combo could be Dan's ST5 car at 2250lbs, 205 or 225 R7s and a peak cap of 170rwhp. I think there's lots of combos that could do well, including some FWD ringers. I would suspect the class to be filled up of cross-overs for the first while, though.


I could easily see myself dipping into this next year for funniez since I plan bump up to ST5 next year.
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:35 PM
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Flat, 3" splitter
We're allowed 5" sideskirts, top of the fender wheelwell venting and behind the tire fenders cuts.
Plastic windshields allowed, but must be 1/4". That's cray cray. Carryover SCCA rule? 3/16 is allowed almost everywhere else.
Reads like we can delete bumpers/support, rad supports, etc, but can't partial tube frame. It'd be pretty easy to get my car under 2100lbs range with no bumper beams, TimeAttack style.

A Supermiata S2 with a big boy motor capable of a 160+ whp high power map would be fun to drop in, but it would be tough to get an n/a BP miata down to 12.5:1.
2100/165 on 205 R7s with an airdam and wing. Or pay the penalty to add a splitter.

I wish the Street tire chart started at 245, and went 265/285/305. We know that a 205 R7 is still significantly faster than a 245 Rival S, especially in a 25-35 minute race. Giving light weight cars a 205 R7 or a 4% Comp Balance credit with 225 Street tires is still not enough.
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Old 06-05-2019, 11:58 AM
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This series is doing pretty well, 30+ car field at the latest event at Gingerman. Field is spread out somewhat since prep for all cars isn't 100%, but it seems like there's several packs of racing going on/always somebody to race with despite how fast/slow you might be.

My current plan is to do GLTC at Road Atlanta Aug 23-25 this summer. Registration opens this weekend I believe. I'll be woefully underprepped, 135rwhp @ 2300lbs, splitter/airdam/****, R7s. This will be an exercise of getting my feet wet with GLTC. I'm honestly considering GLTC to be my 1-2 W2W races a season and spend the rest of the time doing TT(4/5).


Pondering future setups.... ~170rwhp N/A @ 2250lbs or ~180rwhp turbo @ 2400lbs. Budget wise, N/A should be less expensive than FI in the long run. Though, FI has more a ceiling to run TT4 more effectively.
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:21 PM
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8800 lbs minimum weight and drop from a 315 to a 225 tire. Gee whiz, I'm gonna need a LOT of tungsten.
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:49 PM
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No purpose build FI cars have shown up and the folks in charge are already a little leary about what the parity will be like when they do. I suspect FI cars will be getting more weight and/or restrictors.
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Old 06-05-2019, 02:21 PM
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Relevant, sorta.... to FI dreamz

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...7/#post1282529


I'm sure there's several ways "to skin the cat" here for super "low" power on a 6258 hot-side setup. Restrictor, timing changes, others I'm not thinking of....... but which route would be the most reliable?
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Old 06-05-2019, 03:19 PM
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EFR 6258 is overkill for this.

And, as far as I’m aware, TIRs work pretty darn well at putting a hard limit on power output.

You'd have to have a pretty dang small TIR though...like 30mm, maybe even smaller? Not sure how an EFR would play with a TIR but the rally guys have been running them on Subaru turbos since pretty much the beginning of time. A TIR combined with boost control and tuning might be the easiest way to have a safe power limit of 180ish hp. You can only pull so much timing before it starts to cause other issues like sky-rocketing your EGTs.


I’d also argue that a 180whp turbo setup is probably cheaper than 170-175 N/A, even in the long run. There’s a big difference in cost going from a 155-160hp N/A Bp to a 170-175 hp. Those other 15+ whp really start to get expensive.
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Old 06-05-2019, 04:16 PM
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As the owner of a 160-170whp BP, I agree on the FI being the more cost effective path at this time. *looks at build cost and weeps because going NA after turbo was supposed to be cheaper*
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