Savington

iTrader: (31)

I teased these bolt-in splitter brackets for the NA chassis on Instagram a few weeks ago. I have been using simple box aluminum for years to support the splitter on Theseus and now Rover, but I wanted something that supported the splitter better towards the outside edges, so I whipped these up in CAD and went through a few fitment revisions. Finally, they are tested and validated and ready to roll.



The bracket fastens to the existing airbag sensor weld-nuts in the frame rails on each side of the car, and the legs extend out to support the splitter just behind the top-down silhouette of the bumper. These are ideal for the airdam-style front ends that have become ubiquitous among track day cars recently.

Quick-and-dirty shot of a prototype set, showing the mounting location on Rover:



The height is slightly adjustable for minor tweaks in the exact mounting location. I typically use the OEM weld nuts on the front subframe which normally retain the factory undertray, so the height adjustment is centered around a flat/level splitter fastened to those points.

6061-T6 welded construction, anodized for corrosion protection and longevity, ~14.2oz per bracket on my scale. There are three holes per side, all NA Miatas should have at least two per side. Run the brackets with two bolts, or drill and install a riv-nut to use all three. I've done it both ways.

Short first run is in stock, once these sell out there will be about a 2wk wait for more.

$200 per pair. Click here to buy:
Trackspeed Splitter Brackets

Savington

iTrader: (31)

NB guys, there are unfortunately no mounting holes in the same spot as the NA, so the bracket for the NB will be totally different. You can use these on an NB but you would just need to drill and install riv-nuts in the frame yourself. Totally doable for the DIYer but far less plug-and-play. Alas.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Two more photos. These are the brackets on Rover which are pre-protos, so ugly + no slots + no anodizing. Rover gets all the ugly, gross, functional bits.

Bracket mounts to the side of the framerail. Note the three bolts (slots on the production brackets) but only two bolts. On Rover, which is an early '90 car, there's only two captive nuts in the frame rail on each side. Two works just fine, or you can drill and install a riv-nut for a third. On the later cars, this third captive nut exists on at least one side, so you only need to add a riv-nut on one side.


The bracket extends out to support the splitter right behind the airdam, with a little room left for a support bracket for the lower edge (I use lawn&garden edging, the little aluminum tabs you see there are time consuming and not as effective).

kollunz

This gets released as I am planning out my own airdam/splitter!

Will these brackets fit on NA vehicles with the factory under-tray and factory un-cut front bumper?

afm

iTrader: (3)

That splitter has seen some ****.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

They will not, no. The forward-facing leg interferes with the factory bumper. I could be prompted to do a shorter version for the factory bumper, but I would want to group buy those in batches of 5-10pcs.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Hmm. I thought your bracket would hang slightly lower than the bottom of the stock bumper and maybe stick out beneath it.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

10/10 would be interested in this for NB.

EErockMiata

dope product andrew, nice work filling a void that while may not be the most profitable product you design/sell, fills a necessary void in the community you keep pushing forward.

moocow

Just flip the L/R brackets. Boom, fits with the stock bumper

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Whoa. Big brain!

Stock

One step further: Add a shorter leg to the "rear" of the next batch so they're applicable to both stock bumper'd and airdam'd cars depending on mounting orientation.

j_man

In for a set which has the legs go all the way forward to the stock bumper without interfering.
Or maybe make a version which has both legs be L-shaped and longer so everyone cuts them to their specific setup and then drills the hole - e.g. one may want shorter front legs, but longer side ones.

masterjr33

instead of shorter.. or longer. or i need one that clears a GV lip . or i need one for R spoiler. or mines a 99 with a 94 nose.. or lbalbblalhbahlblhalhbah..

make it two piece ?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately the bolt pattern is not symmetrical at all on the frame rail, so you can't flip them side to side. The individual laser parts are all symmetrical, but when I weld them I build a "left" or a "right" depending on how I fit the parts together. You could trim down and add a bracket to the existing one, but if there's demand it's easy enough for me to just shorten up the front leg from the start.

I will get my stock-bumper car up on the lift in the next week or two and see how much shorter the front leg needs to be.

j_man

If you look at the first picture, the top holes are elongated so you can mount it higher or lower. If you need even more adjustments you can open these further yourself I guess.
IMHO much simpler that way than having to deal with a more complicated two-piece design, the extra weight, etc.

Joker

iTrader: (1)

I'm ready to order.. do you have these in stock now or is there a waiting period?

Edit: have these been tested on track? ETA on shorter front legs?

doward

Hmm

Joker

iTrader: (1)

Good observation bud - but how am I supposed know if he has reached this sellout point yet without asking.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

In stock as of right now. I railed a set over a curb at CVR a couple of weeks ago so hard I thought I had broken the splitter in half. Put a 10" 6UL over an inch out of round in the process. The bracket held up just fine.