240_to_miata

iTrader: (2)

I need to extend the FM oil cooler kit if I plan on putting my SETRAB in the front bumper area above the intercooler. . .

I plan on using the existing -8 lines to run from the cooler down to the frame rail on the Pass side. At that point I want to do a -8 male-male connector and make up some line the rest of the way.

I understand more fittings = more places for failure but I like the convenience of a "quick disconnect".

My question is:

What brands should I stay away from? Summit bad? Russel good? Push style fittings okay? I understand the general concept of how to construct my own line but I have never made them myself.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Here's a link for you.

https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...od-read-70535/

I would not, under any circumstance, use a push-fitting for an oil line. But, if you do, be very careful to get the high-temperature rated hose. Even that is marginal for typical track oil temperatures.

240_to_miata

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I knew that link was out there but I failed when I searched.

Off to go read...

240_to_miata

iTrader: (2)

The PDF Link is broken :( anyone have it saved?

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

I still have it, too big to attach here though...

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Sequestration!!

Seriously though, the publication is "FAA-H-8083-30" and the relevant Chapter is Chapter 7. There's other good stuff there.

I did save Chapter 7 on my computer, but it's too large to attach (about 6MB, zips to about 5MB). If I can figure out a way, I'll get it up here, but I suspect you can find it with the above number.

240_to_miata

iTrader: (2)

New link FYI
https://www.faa.gov/regulations_poli...83-30_Ch07.pdf

https://www.faa.gov/regulations_poli.../amt_handbook/

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Beat me to it!

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

+1

After the miserable task of cleaning oil off the suspension, brakes, door, fender, bumper skin, rim etc on one of the team cars at the T25, and then watching Savington rage the "push-lock" fittings off the oil cooler with his man-hands, I decided I would probably never use push-lock fittings on anything if I had another option.

(Hint: SavBro does not lift )

It may be that the guy who assembled the cooler was using mismatched fittings and hoses from different manufacturers, but it was enough to steer me toward things with a more "positive" assembly scheme, if you know what I mean.

czubaka

iTrader: (3)

I've got a mix of the brands on my car (Mocal/Aeroquip, Earl's). No track experience yet to properly test them out, but I'm not worried at all since I went with quality stuff. All teflon lined stainless all they way.

zipstrips

iTrader: (2)

im also against the "push lock" style hoses. from the -an lines i do build i get the majority of my parts here AN Adapters & AN Hose Ends and Hose | AN Plumbing

i used them to build all of the -an lines on my current setup. any fittings that i may have missed, i can purchase earls or russell locally.

the weld on fittings the offer work well for me also.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Bat Inc Mocal fittings and Aeroquip hose, every time.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

matching the brand of hose and the brand of fitting is always the safe bet. And a good seller will note what fittings are compatible with what model lines of hose. IE, a goodrich 200 series hose might not work with a 400 series fitting. We had bad luck with the steel summit fittings where as the aeroquips have gone together like cake, just like you see in the videos.

ctdrftna

iTrader: (1)

im partial to earls, i used alot of summit on my car at 1st and ended up replacing alot of before i even drove the car, i had leaking fuel lines everywhere, my -16 summit rad fittings leaked, so i swapped those ( but even my earls leaked so i think it was a the fitting on the rad got warped in welding, im trying these new AN sealing washers now)

All i can stay is stick with a good name and you should be good

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

/thread

I used to use Mocal fittings from Bat Inc. exclusively until I found a local supplier that sells Aeroquip. I would check and see if you have any local hydraulic shops that keep AN fittings in stock. My local shop is slightly more then ordering the pieces off amazon, but they will assemble all the hoses for me for free. Basically I get a rough estimate of length that I need and have them put on one side. I then take it home and measure with the other fitting to the exact length I need it and mark it. Then I go back the next day and they cover the hose in fire sleeve and cut and put the end on. Perfect hoses every time and I get to support a local business.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Nickel and black, with Mocal quality:

Easiest hose end I've assembled, looks great, on the more affordable end too.

shanem

iTrader: (1)

ive ordered a lot from BAT inc lately and after comparing prices, they are right in there. plus their ordering guy can help you if you aren't sure what you need.

Rennkafer

iTrader: (3)

In my experience working on/restoring old race cars I used a lot of different brands and built a lot of hoses. Brands I'd use... Earls, Aeroquip, Fragola, and any of the stuff that comes with Mocal/Setrab coolers. I wouldn't touch Russell to save my life, had several break in service. The shop I worked for stopped using them, customers get pissy when their $60k-100k engine loses oil pressure because we saved them $2 on a hose end. I've never once seen an Earls/Aeroquip/Fragola fitting/line fail that was properly made and supported (and not crashed or drug on the ground, obviously). Any aluminum fitting will break eventually if the lines aren't well supported.

240_to_miata

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the Input guys. I picked up some fragola because they are a local CT company.

v01canic

iTrader: (1)

i used Russell fittings for everything on my car and they worked well.

I know you didnt ask for this but thought i would add it for other people that may be looking for some help:

http://www.jegs.com/images/fittingselectionguide.pdf