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A bit nose heavy, as expected. Oil in engine but no coolant in rear mounted rad, no seats, no fuel, no battery. Guessing it'll be around 1900 when done with 1/2 tank. So maybe 2050-2100 w/ driver and closer to 51/49 dist. 4.7 lbs/hp. That'll do.
Trimming the shape of the windshield a bit. I thought it was a bit too peaked in the center so we're cutting it a bit flatter curve. No idea how well it will work in terms of airflow and protection. Might be awful, might be great. We'll see.
Looking at the above photos, is looks like you will have 'adequate' DF at the rear, the front - not so much? Any thoughts about the aero balance, and beefing up the front?
Looking at the above photos, is looks like you will have 'adequate' DF at the rear, the front - not so much? Any thoughts about the aero balance, and beefing up the front?
OMP HTE-R 400 seats Big alumalite splitter and side fences for track. Not what we'll do for street. Thinking maybe take the wing off for street and running the stock nose and lip spoiler. Easier to deal with driveways and parking lots. Or maybe just a smaller alumalite splitter for the street. Dunno yet.
pics/specs of alumilite splitter? I have the 9LR template and a 1/2” birch wood sitting in my garage, but like the alumilite thought, and I might experiment with end plates. I don’t have cfd capabilities, just “SOTP” (seat of the pants) capabilities.
side note, I’ve very much enjoyed your build thread. Inspiration for me for sure, just need to find a couple Gs for xidas… I along with others very much enjoy running down (then over) gt3s & z07s.
We use 10mm alumalite for splitters. You'll need a 4x8' sheet. Sign supply stores have it.
There is a big thread in the aero section with ideas for shapes and mounting. End plates need not be fancy. Just something to trap some of the high pressure that's being pushed sideways off the nose and spilling off the end of the splitter.
Birch works well. Alumalite is stiffer and lighter, costs more.
We use 10mm alumalite for splitters. You'll need a 4x8' sheet. Sign supply stores have it.
There is a big thread in the aero section with ideas for shapes and mounting. End plates need not be fancy. Just something to trap some of the high pressure that's being pushed sideways off the nose and spilling off the end of the splitter.
Birch works well. Alumalite is stiffer and lighter, costs more.
The best part about birch is that it wont stay bent, it'll bend pretty far and spring back to its original shape.
The best part about birch is that it wont stay bent, it'll bend pretty far and spring back to its original shape.
Birch plywood also more abrasion resistant. Pros and cons to each material. We have sometimes bolted a little Delrin block to the center and ends of the splitter to acts as sacrificial rub strips.
Intercooler from CX Racing. We'll orient it with I/O at top. Since the core support and radiator aren't there, we can bring it low and back towards the engine, just in front of our brace, Leaves plenty of room for nice straight brake ducts. Oil cooler will be set and low and back too.
Trying to get the best weight distribution and low CG as possible. We normally go with a long skinny core with I/O at opposite ends to allow flow over the top for the radiator. But long core that adds length to piping and complicates other stuff. This one will fit entirely between the frame rails with super short pipes.
narrow/tall intercooler inside the crash structure with a rear mounted radiator is very Formula Drift of you, if you or John havent already found some of those pro level builds for inspo. I dig it.
Coincidence. Just looking at mass centralization, available space, intake optimization (fewer bends). But yeah, its an efficient packaging solution enabled by relocating the radiator.
Relocating the radiator opens a LOT of possibilities for the intercooler plumbing and this intercooler's size/shape/outlets simplify the intercooler and brake duct plumbing which is a GREAT thing but I'm now very curious about ducting air to the rear-located radiator, which could be a BAD thing (it's like you've finished a TV series' season on a cliff hanger and I now have to wait until the next season starts).
There's so little room back there that I never thought it was even possible to mount an effective-sized radiator, let alone duct air to it.
As always in build threads, learning and looking forward to seeing ingenuity, what's possible and needed, and what just doesn't work.
In the photo posted above by @doward, I wonder why they didn't relocate the air intake filter to the hot side (and use a different one)?
When you're at that level of fabrication, I expect it's possible, including an effective cold air box, rather than fabricating plumbing that takes a right angle into the turbo just because you're starting with a big-*** air filter.
Seems lazy or just a quick solution.
Emilio - two questions - do you install bigger valve seats for +1 and/or +2mm valves? Also - do you have finished install pics of all the coolers?
Thx
Wombat
Keegan Engineering built the engine. I'm not sure what he does for the valve seats. No pics of coolers yet.
We'll do a detailed video walkaround in a few weeks. More pics coming.
Turns out, John has spent more time drawing wheels and working on Kaiko! We understand some of y'all want 15x10's, 11s, and 12s. Once we've got those bits done, OGK should be next. Can't wait.
Turns out, John has spent more time drawing wheels and working on Kaiko! We understand some of y'all want 15x10's, 11s, and 12s. Once we've got those bits done, OGK should be next. Can't wait.
You said the name "Vegas" on the phone last week and I was thoroughly confuzzled. Did you mean OGK or did you guys buy Vegas back?
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