The positively awesome fab work demonstrated above makes my efforts look rather basic. For those of us with access to more basic tools/skills I thought I'd share my work in progress attempt at a front right bumper/wing void oil cooler install.

I was inspired by the work that Lokiel completed, which can be seen here Foglight Oil Cooler install

For my purposes, I wanted to route the hoses to and from the cooler above the rail rather than under it, and to fit a filter relocation block with the filter hanging downwards rather than sideways or facing up.





Mounted in this location, there is ample room to route the hoses down behind the headlight and into the void. This path requires cutting a small hole in the guard liner for the lines to pass through, but the lines do not intrude the wheel well. I used split loom to protect the hoses where they pass through the liner.

This is what the arrangement looks like from the engine bay:






I have not put together ducting as yet, but plan to use the existing fog light hole as a source of airflow.

The brackets for the oil cooler and filter block are aluminium flat bar, angle and box section from the hardware store, fixed with nutserts and M6 bolts and packed with 3mm insertion rubber. The cooler is a Setrab, the filter block and relocation block are Grex/Greddy units, and the hose and ends are Speedflow 10AN.

 

Does anyone with the TSE 16 row or 25 row have measurements? I need to get one before the season starts but haven't figured out placement yet. Dimensions would help.

 

Setrab Engine Oil Coolers | susa

6 series, pay attention to the center of the part number

 

Why haven't I read this thread earlier? A+ on the wealth of info in here!

Australian, I like that stealthy placement, but please keep in mind that rotating wheels create pressure in the wheel well and radiators work across pressure differentials. I much prefer mx592 way of venting it, albeit I would use a small gurney flap on the bumper, right before the vent opening to generate some suction in this area.

 

I'm trying to picture where I might fit a 16 row Setrab in my '99 with A/C.

It seems to me that everything would work better if replacing the condenser from a NB2 would get the dryer out of the way and allow me to move the FMIC back 1.5 inches.

Will an NB2 condenser fit in an NB1?
Is the smaller, side mounted drier only about as thick as the condenser, as it appears to be in pictures?
Would I need to purchase a complete, new condenser, or is the drier a separate piece?

Otherwise, I may put the oil cooler above the FMIC, but that will not be so easily done.

 

No. The easy answer without getting into details is "everything is different except the compressor." I did extensive reading about this because I too was trying to figure out how to swap NB2 AC bits into my NB1 so I could fit an intercooler and not ditch the AC.

You COULD have custom flexable AC hoses made to connect everything up, but I don't know if the juice would be worth the squeeze. I ended up ditching the AC. :(

 

Are the compressors the same? I think the a/c compressor bracket is different at a minimum. I thought the bracket and comp were different.

 

I'm fairly positive the compressor and compressor mounting bracket are different between the MSM and the NB2, but I couldn't say between the NB1 and NB2. Nothing I read said that part was different, just like, nearly everything else.

 

Different, yes, but I thought they were functionally identical and interchangeable.

 

You got in before my clarification edit, but yes, that is my understanding as well about the NB1 and NB2 compressors.

 

OK thanks. I'll put the cooler in above the FMIC.

 

Also, is it a given that I will have to lose my IM brace to put in the Mocal thermostatic adaptor? I'm thinking that @nick470 only made a small modification to his.

Nick, did you use 90* fittings on your lines, or straight ones, to keep the brace?

I plan to purchase a kit from @Savington

 

I kept my IM brace, but I did have to shim it out ~3mm (Washer on the bottom bolt). You will also be limited to stock sized oil filters.
I also used straight 90 degree fittings at the sandwich plate.
EDIT....

 

Thanks. I do have 3 larger filters on hand, but worse things have happened.

Possibly you have a picture of your orientation?

 

Been tracking pretty hard for 3+ years without the IM brace. RPM limit 7500. OEM VICS manifold and throttle body with OEM IM gasket. No issues.

 

Post #53 in my build thread has the best pictures... Which aren't very good... One of them does show how the fittings are pointing off of the plate.
I will change a good bit about my oil cooler setup if I ever dig back in to it, so I'm not posting to spread my technique.
Could be worth looking at for some ideas.

 

Yes, I realize many take the risk, but if I needn't, I won't. Many other threads discuss brace removal at length. Still 7500 rev limit is a valid data point.

What harmonic balancer / damper?

 

I used to say the same thing until I pulled the last motor out of Rover. ~3 years of track days, Squaretop manifold, no brace. There was a large (1x1x1") chunk broken out of the corner of the #1 runner of the manifold, straight through one of the mounting ears and all the way down into the runner, and four of the nine IM studs were broken. Suddenly I'm a fan of the OEM IM brace, or some sort of replacement which is compatible with oil coolers.

 

My oil cooler set up (photos above earlier in thread) also incorporates a filter relocation and it was not that difficult to retain the brace. I did remove it while installing to give more room to work when attaching the fittings and hoses to the engine block, but reinstalled afterwards. I don't have any sharp bends, excessive hose length or chafe points.

 

So, I'm ready to place my order for your kit. What might we need to change to make it compatible? This is on a '99. What I'm not aware of, is if the Mocal sandwich plate can be rotated in any orientation.

Think I can modify the stock brace somehow? Nick (see a couple of posts up) shaved a bit off his, but it looks like he would have used a straight hose fitting to mate up there. Think that concept would work? I'll try to find his picture and post it here with an edit.

EDIT: POST #17

I don't have my turbo oil feed coming from that area, only the stock oil pressure sending unit.