You would have 4 lines in total. Two from block to remote oil mount, two from thermostat to oil cooler. thermostat and remote oil mount are sandwiched.

as for mocal: I'm cheap.

 

Ports are way too small. 3/8" is equivalent to -6AN. -8AN is acceptable, but still reduces system pressure. -6AN is not big enough, period.

GM version is OK, although I vastly prefer the BSPP/Dowty seal setup that Mocal uses over NPT. I also don't see a GM-style 1/2" adapter in the proper M20 thread.

IMO, the added cost is worth it. Mocal is what OEMs use when they need a sandwich plate adapter. It's $122 including the adapters and Dowty seals, so we're not talking about a several hundred dollar difference.

The fittings on the Mocal plate contact the block if you just bolt the sandwich adapter onto the 1.6 without a spacer. The 1.8L warmer spaces the sandwich adapter out so there's clearance between the block and the fittings.

180*F is fine. Mocal does makes a 205*F version, specified for marine and aviation use where the oil being used is thicker than normal automotive-application oil. Running a 180*F Mocal adapter, I used to see warmed-up street temps in the 190-200*F range. You want to get the oil up to ~180*F, but it's less about viscosity and more about heating off the fuel and water that inevitably makes its way into the crankcase as the engine operates. Changing the weight of the oil you run has a larger effect on viscosity than the difference between 180*F and 205*F.



edit: Correction, 205*F sandwich adapters are in such low demand that Mocal does not stock them, so I can't get them without a large pre-order.

 

After using a cheap sandwich plate and then loosing oil pressure the extra money spend on a Mocal is totally worth it in my mind.

 

So n/a car with a/c it's preferable to mount the oil cooler in FRONT of the radiator? How come I saw Emilio put the oil cooler in the engine compartment BEHIND the radiator in his OGK car?



What about mounting the oil cooler to the steering rack like FLyin' Miata? Let's talk about oil cooler durability in the event of an off-course excursion.

 

What caused the oil pressure loss?

 

3/8NPT is the standard pipe thread for -8 (8/16=1/2") AN fittings. 1/2NPT is the standard pipe thread for -10 (10/16 = 5/8") AN fittings. 3/8NPT is not equivalent to -6AN.

 

Looks like they mounted it this way to warm the oil in the cooler . Some race engines run extremely to cold .

 

Never assume that something is preferable just because you saw it done on a purpose built race car. You'll also note the stock radiator used in that particular configuration of Crusher (not the OGK) as well as a flat piece of ABS to limit the airflow through that stock radiator. That motor was not a normal BP motor, and the 25 Hours of Thunderhill is not a normal race. Emilio can elaborate on the particulars of that engine if he so desires

It's the only mounting location that is universal to pretty much all applications. It's also highly prone to damage if one were to go off-track. It's not a mounting location I would recommend.

 

I believe due to the configuration of that particular motor, there were troubles getting it UP to temprature. Notice how half the radiator is blocked off? That is not any sort of standard configuration, do not copy it. That picture has really fucked up peoples brains.

 

yarrr

I measured a -10AN hose end I have laying around and its 0.465" ID.
I haven't seen 3/8 NPT fittings go over 0.4" ID.

1/2 NPT would be better.

 

I'm not saying they're right or wrong, but I'd be interested in opinions on their setup. Motoiq has their oil cooler mounted behind the radiator as well, but in a much different fashion.

Project S2000 - Oil Cooling

 

I had the oil temp sender in a sandwich plate and saw 230 pretty consistently. All warmed up driving down the highway in 70 degree weather on a bone stock '96 1.8L.
I saw north of 270 degrees on mountain roads in 80 degree ambient, driving spireted but certainly nothing close to track driving. (Same car)

My '99 had the same oil temp sender location ^ and similar oil temps before I put the blower back on. With the charger on, I back off when I see 280. I need an oil cooler soooon.

I could easily see how a stock miata on a track on a warm day would have dangerous high oil temps.

 

So the Mocal adapter has no ports for sensors does it? So would the preferred method to measure the temp and pressure with this kit would be to add a sandwich plate as well as the Mocal adapter?

Block - Factory 1.8 warmer - Mocal spacer - sensor sandwich plate - filter?

Seems crazy

 

The preferred method is a bung in the oil pan.

 

So in this case, it seems that the oil cooler doesn't affect the street driving temps dramatically, sounds like a good thing. I was concerned with 180* oil temps, but it's apparently not an issue.

Wow, spirited street driving seems to have a very large effect on oil temps, more than I would have guessed.

Here's an interesting thought from an uninformed source: Lets say your current car hits 260* spikes during track use with 10W-30. After you install an oil cooler, you only hit 220* during track use. At 220*, 5W-20 is the same viscosity as your 10W-30 was at 260*, so in theory, you could switch to the 5W-20 because you would be at the same viscosity as before, but at much safer oil temps. Would this help free up a little bit of power safely?

-Dustin

 

Free up power? Yes. Safely? Ehhhhh...

 

IIRC, there are spots on the Mocal adapter that you can drill and tap for a sender.

Another option is an inline AN adapter in the line going to the cooler. It won't read accurately until the thermostat opens, but you don't really care what the oil temp is below the thermostat opening point, right?

Here's an expensive pre-made one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...0040/overview/

I have a 13-row Setrab on the FM steering rack mount with -10AN fittings. It works pretty well, but is definitely in a vulnerable location. One additional downside is that 13 rows is the max you can fit, I have a 19 row Mocal that I originally bought to use with it, but the fittings want to be where the sway bar is. On the plus side, the lines are nice and short. (Note that the kit FM sells uses -8 -- I agree that's too small, so I built mine with -10)

--Ian

 

Something in the cheap glowshift sandwich plate I had caused the oil pressure loss. Never pulled it apart enough to figure it out exactly as I was to pissed with the sandwich plate.

 

you can use this thing - its cheap ($13.97) and doesn't need extra fittings

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-670360/overview/

 

Or Fragola, in black
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fr...8-bl/overview/