Oil cooler tech
Any suggestions on sizing a Setrab Series 1? Perhaps a 34 or 44 row, oriented on it's side, is the route I want to go. Mostly a street car that sees monthly autocross with sporadic HPDE. I do plan to do more HPDE after install. Thoughts appreciated.
Vegas uses a 1 series Setrab. We find packaging is much easier having the I/O closer together. Anecdotally, more rows that are shorter tend to be more thermally efficient than fewer, longer rows and have less pressure drop.
We have switched to 1 series whenever the packaging allows it.
We have switched to 1 series whenever the packaging allows it.
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Vegas uses a 1 series Setrab. We find packaging is much easier having the I/O closer together. Anecdotally, more rows that are shorter tend to be more thermally efficient than fewer, longer rows and have less pressure drop.
We have switched to 1 series whenever the packaging allows it.
We have switched to 1 series whenever the packaging allows it.
And I have benefited from that switch - thanks for the cheap 6 series!
I'd just note that for a mostly-street car, you're probably splitting hairs here unless you're generating a lot non-standard heat. The pressure and cooling differences between different arrangements are probably moot as long as you're not at one extreme or the other of rows vs length.
My $0.02.
I'd just note that for a mostly-street car, you're probably splitting hairs here unless you're generating a lot non-standard heat. The pressure and cooling differences between different arrangements are probably moot as long as you're not at one extreme or the other of rows vs length.
My $0.02.
And I have benefited from that switch - thanks for the cheap 6 series!
I'd just note that for a mostly-street car, you're probably splitting hairs here unless you're generating a lot non-standard heat. The pressure and cooling differences between different arrangements are probably moot as long as you're not at one extreme or the other of rows vs length.
My $0.02.
I'd just note that for a mostly-street car, you're probably splitting hairs here unless you're generating a lot non-standard heat. The pressure and cooling differences between different arrangements are probably moot as long as you're not at one extreme or the other of rows vs length.
My $0.02.
As a champion over-thinker, I agree with building in headroom. The reality I've discovered though is that by the time you start needing that headroom, some other thing has come up which sends you in a different direction. Witness - "I love how reliable this car is on track, so let me completely replace the drivetrain because I'm tired of being passed down the straight by aggressive butterflies" -> well, I'm in there anyhow -> $$$.
I asked this question on the FB group, and only got one or two responses. Although discussed here are there in this thread, I was looking for thoughts on 180 vs 205 degree thermostats. I am tempted to purchase a 205 given I have a street car that will see autox regularly and hpde around 4-5 times a year. Thoughts?
I asked this question on the FB group, and only got one or two responses. Although discussed here are there in this thread, I was looking for thoughts on 180 vs 205 degree thermostats. I am tempted to purchase a 205 given I have a street car that will see autox regularly and hpde around 4-5 times a year. Thoughts?
Try Bat-Inc for 205° Mocal things. https://www.batinc.net/
Another option that I don't see mentioned much is Improved Racing.
https://www.improvedracing.com/
I have parts from both companies, both are miles better than anything Mishimoto I've ever owned, seen, used or handled. IMO you are right in avoiding that particular brand.
Another option that I don't see mentioned much is Improved Racing.
https://www.improvedracing.com/
I have parts from both companies, both are miles better than anything Mishimoto I've ever owned, seen, used or handled. IMO you are right in avoiding that particular brand.










