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With all the recent time attack talk, I thought some of you guys would appreciate our most recent build.
It's a customer car that was built for fun and games, but we will be running it with GTA as well.
The car has a nicely built LS3 which the owner (also a forum member) is shooting for 550 WHP, so it should have plenty of get up and go.
There's a 20 point cage to keep the occupants safe and stiffen up the chassis and the safety setup is complete for both sides so that the brave (stupid?) soul in the right seat is just as well protected.
The list of modifications is far too long to remember in its entirety, everything is custom.
I'll let the pics do most of the talking, feel free to ask any questions!
Slick looking racecar packs a lot punch and has the grip levels to take advantage of it.
Our custom Penske suspension combined w/ 15x11 6ULs and 275 Hoosiers all around delivers the goods!
Tight fitment and proper geometry create a solid safety cell -
Party at the front -
Business in the back, the APR Performance GT-1000 swan neck wing was combined with our DRS which is controlled by the driver from the steering wheel -
"Welcome to my office"
Well protected occupants in FIA rated Cobra Evolutions seats and Schroth 6 point harnesses, fire system bottle located nice and low -
Our new universal Carbon Fiber center console and an AEM Electronics CD-7L dash put all the info and controls at the driver's fingertips -
Custom sealed battery box for a little baby battery that weighs right around 3.5 Lbs -
Custom heat shields double up over the Jet Hot coated headers -
So many custom pieces in one detail shot - brake lines, fire system nozzle, heat shield, coil relocation bracket... the list goes on and on!
A large funnel extractor helps the radiator shed the heat -
Is it a requirement to rivet the battery box down? Capture nuts or rivnuts in those locations obstructing something else? Awesome work, I'm sure I'll be referencing these images for years to come.
Is it a requirement to rivet the battery box down? Capture nuts or rivnuts in those locations obstructing something else? Awesome work, I'm sure I'll be referencing these images for years to come.
Hi Moti,
I've got a question - the fire suppression system pull lever location. It seems that it may be affected by a strong side impact in that location rendering it inoperable in case it gets sandwiched between door and safety cage, especially if the door moves. Wouldn't center mounting it make more sense and make it more reliable?
Honest question. How much does a cage like that cost? Is it in the $2k range, $3k range, $4-6k range?
Originally Posted by Arca_ex
"More than you can afford pal."
That's into the 4k+ range easy.
^^^
Originally Posted by 2slow
Hi Moti,
I've got a question - the fire suppression system pull lever location. It seems that it may be affected by a strong side impact in that location rendering it inoperable in case it gets sandwiched between door and safety cage, especially if the door moves. Wouldn't center mounting it make more sense and make it more reliable?
The fire pull location was chosen to allow rescue crews an easy access, and if you notice there is another one on the other side of the car right behind the shoulder of the passenger (for the same reason).
It's unlikely that anyone will reach into the center of the car when it's on fire, so dual side pulls make more sense.
The pull is quite a bit inboard than the door bar, so even in a bad side impact it should be A-okay.
Moti and Steven did an absolutely amazing job on my car. It's truly a piece of art. The attention to details and quality surpassed my imagination. Blackbird Fabworx is the only shop I trust. They went above and beyond not only making a race car but a spectacular show piece. I am going to feel incredibly safe and comfortable anytime I drive this car.
Guess I should have been more clear, I was thinking about the 'plus' part of the range... It's not $4k, not even close.
I do not quote custom projects online.
No one who actually paid for any of those big jobs needs to have the cost published.
pdexta, we scaled it at 2376 Lbs which is pretty damn light considering it has a 20 point cage, big wheels and tires, big aero and safety setup for both sides.
It's especially good when you realize that the body is mostly Steel, you can take out of it ~45-50 Lbs just by switching the doors alone.
Were the splitter rods necessary here? I know you guys like to tuck it behind the bumper whenever possible.
It looks awesome... it would look even more awesome without them.
You're right, we typically brace the splitter behind the bumper, but the customer wanted the splitter to be easy to remove w/o removing the bumper, so this was the compromise we made.
11-17-2018, 01:21 AM
"This one goes to 11" - a BFW LS3 swap build
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