which pad do I want?
 

I'm in the market for new pads after doing this to DTC-30 after 3-hours of track time:
http://i42.tinypic.com/2b32h0.jpg
Should I go back to Hawk Blue rotor eaters, use the PFC-97 rotor eaters, try DTC-70 or 60, or try Hawk HT-10? I'm not sure what else to try but I'm tired of spending money on brake shit.

try the 70's.

any thoughts on rotor wear or experience with the pad? I'm about to buy very expensive rotors and I'm tired of guessing on pads.

You will do this to all your brakes until you figure out what your doing wrong. Get a in car cam with data overlay to actually save money so we can figure out what your doing wrong.

Its not a driving problem, I'm driving the same way I drove with the sport brakes when i did not have this problem (pad taper). I think this was a heat problem with the corrado rotors, so I'm switching to Racing Brake. I don't have the money to buy $1000 overlay equipment and a camera, so that's never going to happen.

This one looks like it's your style.
Attachment 15947

Couple questions and thoughts...

Why would you use Dirt Track compounds and expect them to hold up on a paved road course? Any front brake cooling yet? Instead of swapping to expensive rotors why not swap to blues and stay with the cheap corrado's first?

Were these the wilwood brakes? I wonder what kieth verges is running on his yellow turbo track rat that won the 08 NASA TWS 8hr enduro out right? My point is Trey, that your not special, your not Montoya. Your doing something wrong...

I know this. He's running stock 1.8 brakes with hawk blues and replacing them ever damn time he tracks the car. I don't have that kind of money, I need something that lasts longer.

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but whatever I did wrong only affected the front right. How can I adjust my driving style to make the 300* temp differential on one side go away since its obviously a driver issue and not an equipment issue?

The DTC-30's were recommended by someone. The corrado rotors vent from the wheel side, not the hub side, so brake ducting does nothing.

Frustration is high.

What caliper are you running and what does your car weigh with driver?

Just thought since you have to buy new pads anyway may as well try blues on those corrado's first. Also thought some air blowing at the rotor was better than none at all, even if the design of those rotors stink for venting and won't move air properly.

wilwood dynalite, 2517lb with my incredibly buff, firm ass which can crack walnuts.

I have ducting on them. The inside surfaces were worn significantly more than the outside.

You need a Doctor, call Emilio.

I think a rotor with the vent inlet on the correct side, with a directionally veined rotor will drop rotor temps significantly, and I just called Hawk and they said I should run the DTC-60 and it will be very kind to rotors and work up to 1400*.

win.

And you thought your troubles with Volkswagon products were over because you bought a Miata! :laugh:

You'd think those over-engineering nazi bastards could have at least designed a rotor properly!

this is next:
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/pi...014_copy11.jpg

Hawk said the 60s would be fine? My understanding with hawk pads is that one must replace rotors everytime pads get replaced. I wonder if we could kill a set of pads on the rotors and throw another set of hawks on the same rotors. That would be nice, i know carbotechs can do that.

I just talked to the guy at Hawk and he said the DTC-60 were much easier on rotors than blues and that he won't suggest that its a good idea to use a Hawk street pad with a Hawk race pad on the same rotor, he didn't say it would be the end of the world.

Can we please not type in passive voice?

ohshitgoddamn:
http://www.wilwood.com/Images/Calipe...olished-lg.jpg

What about 60s then another set of 60s on the same set of rotors?

I'm sure that would be fine...

The DTC pads may have started out as a "dirt track" pad, but they are pretty well used now in road racing.

Does Carbotech have anything that will work? Pretty sure they can custom cut anything if they do not.


CT Brakes > Anything.

Do you have $180 to burn up on front brakes every 3-track days?

Why do you say CT > Anything? Just because people on the internet say they are? Because Emilio sells them?

Cobalt Friction
Anyone tried them yet?

They came out with the CSR which would most likely last longer than the XR2 and XR3 that I see only last 2.5-3 hours with a pro driver.

This, burning 80 bucks every 3 track days is better than 180 bucks. We are looking for a cheaper solution that still works.

I also don't mind washing my wheels after each track day.

Our race team uses Cobalt Friction brakes exclusively. Many Grand Am teams also use them. I had a set of XR3s on my turbo miata and used them for 4 weekends. They are still on the car but I should be running XR1s, the xr3 compound is not enough for the amount of HP I have (had...). I have standard 95 brakes with napa rotors, no ducting and about 220 whp.

I definitely would recommend Cobalts.

If you were a real man you would step up to CL pads from Carbon Lorraine.
Before you get your panties in their typical wad-Yes they are French and yes they are expensive. However they resist heat better than almost any other pads, wear much slower(2-3x slower or more) and are very kind to rotors.
They have pads for the dynalite caliper and the miata rears.
They are going on my car-once it is finished.
Essex - CL Brakes

Essex - CL RC8 Brake Pads


That is 3x higher than we are looking for.

A guy I work with has a 993 Turbo and was cooking the brakes on the track, it was down to him applying the brakes for too long rather than a shorter, firmer application.

I'm not saying that is the problem here just keep it in mind.

Scoff about the price if you like.
If the pads last 3x as long as conventional metal pads and don't go through rotors(which aren;t that cheap even with cheap blanks)like Hawk blues, have superior temp handling and reasonable cold bite which allows street use. Plus I dont have keep changing the pads and rotors multiple times per year.
Long term they aren't any more expensive than more conventional pads.
You do have to pony up for the intial investment but like anything automotive-cheap, fast, reliable(or in this case durable)-pick two.
Honestly, people on many automotive boards tend to be so dogmatic about things.

Agreed, Its that If part we are worried about. What if they don't work?

I'm a little tired of "if" too. I'm a bit frustrated with the car again, but hopefully things will go the say of the turbo kit genesis where it was darkest before light.

I've got another "if" for you. If you want to send me a set of rotors and pads like ones you have some data on already (you know they last x number of hours on the track with you driving) and let me get them treated for you and send them back. You then try them again and see how much longer they last. I've got a buddy that does a special "secret process" of cryogenic cycling (not simple cryo treating) for optical lens cutting tools and other specialized industrial applications. Last year he tested his process on police car rotors and pads (yes, you do the pads, too) and increased the service life of the rotors and pads by 5.5 times. The officers also reported that their stopping distances were decreased and that the Crown Victoria's horrible brake fade problems were alleviated. This might help you to successfully use the "rotor eater" pads by lengthening the service life of the rotors and pads to a tolerable duration.

PM me if you are interested in trying it and we can talk details.

Voodoo magic. Another "if" added to the mix.

Cobalt Friction possible. What about Porterfield?

"You have to believe we are magic, nothing can stand in our way"[/Horrible 1980 Reference - Olivia Newton John]


Wait for the chorus...

She was a little hottie back when.

I wonder if this dude actually drives the car hard or uses his mouth on men?
RB Big Brake Kit with Hawk DTC brake pads for RX7 - RacingBrake Forums

At least he was knowledgable enough to check some temps. He sure talks a good game.

If we can find out his lap times we can put those against other lap times at that track.

this just in...going with $90 Racing Brake stock replacements and hoping for the best.

Send them to me.

I might.

I have been running Cobalt Friction XR2's simply the best feeling longest lasting track pad I have tried yet.

Another thing I like about them is there is essentially no bedding required Slap them on and your ready to go, they perform the same consistent way after a couple applications weather you slap them on new rotors or used rotors that have pad transfer form other types of pads or not. Thermal cycling of them makes no difference just need to wear them enough to get the surfaces in contact good.

Many of the other pads I have tried like Carbotech require perfect bed in procedures for them to work well. And rely on super even transfer of pad material to the rotor to not get a bit of chatter and uneven bite.

Bob

Cobalt Friction compounds are Carbon Lorraine. Carbon Lorraine makes the pads for Cobalt Friction and the pads use a Carbon Lorraine formulation.

Bob

More proof you should try the Cobalts. There's a reason most Grand Am teams use them. I don't know if they make a pad for your Wilwood caliper or not though.

Sounds like the same pad that the MER tech was raving about.

I’m using them in my Wilwood Dyna Pro calipers. Slightly different shape than the Dyna Lights. But you can get them in ether flavor from Adrenaline Racing

Adrenaline Racing
There website hasn’t been updated in a while but you can call them.

Also none of them are really sutable for street use. they dont seem to be agressive on rotors when hot but they sure are when cold. The thing is you don't need to bed them just swap them in and out at the track on your street driven track car they dont seem to care what pad compound transfer layer was on your rotors.

Bob

Thanks for that last tidbit of information Mr. Bundinatron, literally minutes after ordering a set DTC-60.

I've heard soooo many good things about Cobalts from top knotch pro racers. The only problem is the price... I am going to try DTC 60 f/r and see how I like them. If no good, then I will finally go with the 'balts.

For me they seem to last at least twice as long on track as any other pad I have tried that had close to the same performance. Actually 4 times as long as some others I have used.

Bob

Did your new DTC-60s come in yet?
I have a track day coming up and I'm still on the stock brake setup including rotors. I've run Axxis ultimates thus far but I need more brake for this power level for sure.
Do you know if you like the DTC-60s yet or should I look into Cobalts?

Looks like a set of front and rear cobalts would set me back $150 per set so $300 to fit the car excluding rotors and fluid. I would like to run something cheaper right now considering the speeds I'll be seeing at this small track.

not yet, trying to get on track this weekend.

Where did you buy the hawks?

The prices are really good at Jeg's on the Hawk products in my experience.

Sav sells em

I bought them from Savington. If the 60's don't work, we get to move up to 70's...which I seriously doubt we'll need considering out cars weigh under 2500lb.

Someone buy my xp10's. https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t45535/
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