+1. Look like you are air is exiting into high pressure wheel well.

 

it exits on top of the undertray to the side of the front mouth ducting which should be relatively low pressure. i am no aerodynamicist though. going to take it to the track like this and see what happens. if it does not work i will just have to move it back to where it was at the track and go back to the drawing board. wonder how well a a fan would work??

 

A cheap magnehelic pressure gauge off ebay will take all the guesswork out of your ducting.

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Optim...0/article.html
tells a bit about them. If you search that site for "magnehelic" you'll find quite a few articles.

 

If you're going to go with a fan, you could try using the 12v bilge blowers Spooky uses for brake cooling in his ducting thread.

Also one thing I note about your original oil cooler location is that it's in front of the cool side of the intercooler, so all the heat being pulled out of the oil was going into your charge as it exited the intercooler. Perhaps moving it over to the hot side (driver's left) and letting the exit half of the intercooler see unobstructed airflow would solve IAT problems without having to use a fan or blower on the oil cooler.

 

Just ran the numbers for my 13"x7.5" Setrab. I would need a 6" OD tube, or four 3" tubes... yea, that's not gonna happen.

 

decided the first idea wasn't going to work so here is the mk2 version. it aint pretty but it should work and i am confident will have a large effect on my inlet temps.

 

The proof is in the pudding. That's an unusual design for a Miata. I don't think that is what I would have come up with but I'm interested in the test results.

 

its not conventional but if it works it works.... if not we have plenty of spare bumpers. just be good to have nice clean/cool air to the intercooler.

 

I also have heat soak issues after about 20mins; leaving 10 mins that I'm down on power. Will an IAT activated water injection system last for 10 mins?