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Question for those running the Wilwood 1" Brake MC
I've tried searching and while 949 did offer some spartan instructions, I had a question for those who've installed these.
Did you simply install it straight up out of the box or did you remove the residual pressure valves that the master is equipped with. It's noted that these should be used only in conjunction with drums and should be removed by disassembling the the port outlet fittings, removing the taper seat with the spring and rubber seal.
I confirmed and these are pre-installed in the Wilwood master.
Also, any advice on fitting/tee orientation for non-abs vehicle would be appreciated. I bought this in conjunction with a bias valve and now I have 4 fittings, two hard lines with all sorts of varying fitting lengths, and two couplers.
Sorry to be such a noob. I found these in the basement and figured I should install them tomorrow.
The brass fittings closest to the valve came with the wilwood kit, not compression fittings. The stuff on the right was stapled to the outside, and are compression fittings. I'm assuming that the two hardlines only thread in one way into the master?
T fitting splits the front MC output for non-abs cars.
Union joins the front line when deleting the OEM prop valve.
Pre made hard lines need bent to fit and run from the Wilwood MC to the prop valve, which meets the OEM hard lines on the firewall.
Prop valve comes with 1/8 NPT to 3/8-24 IF female adapters and will not connect to Mazda brake system without our adapters. Mazda brake lines are metric 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare.
You'll have a duplicate/spare union, I think.
-The Wilwood MC kit comes with one for ABS cars to join the front MC output to the single front line that runs over to the ABS block.
-The Wilwood prop valve also comes with one for deleting the prop valve from the front line.
Just called them to confirm. They where super friendly about it. People are probably running them both ways, it's made to counteract the spring on the shoes in the drum. 949 simply said remove the spring and plunger, reinstall the tapered bit and be on your way.
I never saw those instructions when installing, so I still have the springs in. I don't notice any pad knockback or need to pump the brakes(I also have the willwood front 4pots, stock non-sport rears). If anything the first time I ever step on the brakes they don't seem to bite as well, but I've always chalked this up to cold pads.
These are the only pictures I could find of my install. It seems like a bit of a rats nest no matter how you route them. Hope this helps.
I left mine in as well, simply because i wasn't aware that they were there.
Install came out fairly tidy though. The only line i'm not happy with is the front driver line, which i just massaged to go direct into the wilwood. Not the prettiest curve, but it was easy and works.
https://flic.kr/p/UCttDThttps://flic.kr/p/UCttDT by https://www.flickr.com/photos/66868738@N05/, on Flickr
Question to people running wilwood 1" MC. Did you change the rod inside the brake booster? My NB1 7/8" oem rod is way to far in. I have to push the pedal all the way to floor and I have adjust the pedal rod to max....
You have to use a standard booster to work with a 1" Wilwood. If you want a 1" master on a sport booster, you have to use a 929 master cylinder. The rod depth is nearly 1" different between the standard and sport masters.
You have to use a standard booster to work with a 1" Wilwood. If you want a 1" master on a sport booster, you have to use a 929 master cylinder. The rod depth is nearly 1" different between the standard and sport masters.
Thank you for the right info. All the product sellers just told me to try adjust the pedal...
I guess I have to find ancient 929 master cylinder then. I run big superlite calibers and just want the pedal travel to be nicer....
12-21-2017, 07:30 PM
Question for those running the Wilwood 1" Brake MC
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