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The Race Spares Megathread

Old 01-11-2019, 09:56 PM
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Default The Race Spares Megathread

My upgrade last summer from flatbed to enclosed trailer (and the accompanying ability to greatly expand my spares package) gave me the idea for this thread: Tell us what your spares package looks like. Include some basic contextual info, like what sort of racing you do and how you transport your car and gear to the track (horse and cart, drive to the track, tire trailer, SUV+ flatbed, enclosed trainer, semi rig, helicopter, etc). Use the info herein to augment your own spares package and tell me (and others) what spares I have overlooked and should be carrying.

My own spares package is designed around my usage, which is typically 2-day HPDE/race events up to 500 miles away. I want to carry enough spare gear to fix common and/or easily repaired failures so that I don't waste weekends. In general, if there's a failure I have experienced or know to be common, and the cost of the part is relatively inexpensive, and I would rather do the job on jackstands in a dirty parking lot than go home with a broken car, then I'll carry the spare. All three criteria are on a sliding scale of cost vs. likelihood, so I'll always carry cheap spares that fix common failures (brakes, front hubs), I'll usually carry expensive spares that fix uncommon but known potential failures that cannot be planned for (transmissions), and I'll skip carrying expensive spares which fix very rare problems (differentials).

Make your own list, post it up, catalog and improve your own spares, use your list to augment and replenish your own spares package, save a race weekend and drive your car more. Go.

My usage: HPDE and racing, 200-500 mile tows (each way), enclosed trailer.

Fluids:

(almost) enough fluid to completely fill an empty car.
-2qt Amsoil Dominator 15w50
-2qt Amsoil MTG
-1qt Amsoil SVG (need to add OSG 250R since I am back to an OS Giken for 2019)
-1L ATE Typ200 + Motive bleeder + bleed bottle
-2gal distilled water + magic funnel
-small sealable oil drain pan

Suspension/Brakes
2x front hubs, ARP studs pre-installed, with new nuts, dust caps, and 29mm socket
1x OEM lower balljoint
1x OEM tie rod end
1x OEM inner tie rod end
2x front rotors, pre-assembled and safety wired
2x rear rotors
1x front and rear pads
1x front brake line
1x front caliper

Wheels and Tires
-Full set of spare sticker 245/40 RC1s
-(sometimes) alternate set of something else, like 245/40 R7s or a different test tire

Engine/drivetrain:
-6-speed transmission including alternate shift bushing for MR shifter and throwout bearing
-clutch master/slave cylinder
-timing belt, water pump, valve cover gasket, small container of RTV
-spark plugs
-ignition coils
-accessory belt
-3x NB cam angle sensors
-NB crank sensor
-DW200 fuel pump
-rubber exhaust hangars
-complete radiator + radiator cap

Fasteners/miscellaneous:
-Assortment of M6, M8, M10 fasteners. Include both M10x1.25 and M10x1.50 since Mazda used them both. In addition to assorted generic spare fasteners, I carry specific spares for:
-Splitter fasteners (countersunk bolts)
-PPF fasteners
-Assorted spare electrical connectors. Ring terminals, butt splices, bullet connectors, etc.
-Spare fuses (variety of sizes and amperages)
-Spare wire in various gauges
-Duct tape, metal tape, electrical tape, teflon tape, painter's tape
-Many zipties
-brake light bulbs
-assorted vacuum and coolant hoses and vacuum caps
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 01-11-2019, 10:17 PM
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Open trailer with tongue box and extra toolbox up on the tire rack.
Jack and jackstands go in racecar trunk. I used to carry an easy-up in the racecar passenger seat area.

Same usage scenario, but typically I am closer to home. 1-2 day events within 185 miles(BRP).
w2w racing about 40% of the events.

I pretty much only carry consumables. NB1 ignition spares and front hubs are consumable. I don't carry a spare trans, radiator, rear rotors, or a C set of wheels.

handful of lug nuts
2x front hubs with regular studs
1-1.5x Front pads
Rear pads
2 front rotors
1-2qt oil, depending on usage rate.
1 can brake fluid
1 "B" set of wheels/tires
1-2 gal water
1x Ign coil. Used to be 2+, but i've burned through them. CoPs soon.
1x NB1 CAS. Same as above, need to refill.


Things I should carry:
trans/diff fluid
oil filter, more oil.
spare endlink
rear rotors
grill mesh, tapes, w2w repair supplies/tapes.
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:45 AM
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This may seem obvious, but I've run for quite a while without spares for the custom built stuff on the car. You're certainly not going to be able to make one at the track so I now build in 3's just so I have a spare.

BWM bearing conversion parts
various wiring connectors I used for custom MS stuff
Custom fabbed A arms parts (heims, welded ball joint mounts ect.)
BBK caliper mounting brackets, (threaded aluminum)
Funky hardware I've used on various things that are custom order
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:43 AM
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Brake pads, brake rotors, front hubs, coils, spark plugs, fuel pump, oil change & filter, distilled water, water wetter, clutch, transmission, x2 alternators, stock radiator, ecotec accessory belt and crank bolt because TDY and silly swap pan, brake fluid, rear calipers, 1-2 of all control arms and knuckles, 3.75 total sets of wheels/tires, and I'm sure I'm forgetting a number of things.

This is for our enduro car. We have yet to bring a spare engine, but we really should at only $600. But that requires bringing an engine hoist or relying on someone else to have one, and unless it happens at the very beginning of our races, we'd need to buy another swap kit (oil pan, motor mounts, trans adapter) to really make use of it.

Zip ties, duct tape, an entire Miata of nuts/bolts, and a tool box to replace all of this goes without saying.

I don't really understand the trans and diff fluid everyone is packing unless they have a spare trans and diff to swap in?
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Old 01-12-2019, 03:40 PM
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4x jack stands
Aluminum floor jack
8x wheels
1.5x front brake pads
1.5x rear brake pads
Brake fluid
Engine oil
Mechanic gloves
2x 5gal Scribner fuel jugs
Funnel
Foil tape
Painter's tape
Fuel hose
Radiator hose
Zip ties
Electrical ring terminals, butt connectors, wire, fuses
Liquid electrical tape
Heat shielding fabric
Spark plugs
Bailing wire
Folding chair
umbrella
Lots of tools and whatever else I forgot to put on this list
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Old 01-13-2019, 11:02 AM
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This is an awesome thread idea as I am still working on collecting a good compliment of spares. Just finished my first season of HPDE (7 weekends) with travel so far within around 200 miles each way to my regional tracks. I tow in a 24' enclosed trailer and plan on expanding to more tracks up and down the East Coast in the next year or so, eventually traveling 500-600 miles each way to some bucket list tracks. Will be eventually moving from HPDE to some sort of competitive driving, hence the trailer and large amount of spares already. I'm well vested in taking this on as a major hobby! My wife and dog come to the track with me and we sleep in the trailer at the track so I've included all the camping crap we bring as well.

My engine is completely stock and I am finally moving to legit suspension (949 Big Grip kit) this off-season, so I will need to address my suspension related spares for this year.

Here is my current (and proposed) list.

Tools:
4x jackstands
1x aluminum racing jack
Small wiring kit with various connectors and spare wire
I load up my tool cart full of "common Miata tools" into the trailer. Whatever I use most when working on the car in the garage stays in that cart and just moves right into the trailer for each event
Funnel for bleeding radiator
Lug wrench
M18 impact gun
5 gallon portable air storage tank
Various tape and generic spare fasteners
Zip ties!!
2x work lights with extension cords (need to obtain)
Wood for going underneath jack stands and jack in paddock (VIR is very strict about this!)

Fluids:
6x gallons distilled water (2x for car, 4x for tow vehicle)
1x bottle ATE brake fluid for car
1x bottle generic brake fluid for tow vehicle
1x bottle Water Wetter
1x bottle whatever I'm using in diff
2x bottle whatever I'm using in trans
1x gallon ATF for tow vehicle
4x quarts whatever oil I'm using for car
5x quarts oil for tow vehicle
20x gallons 93 octane gasoline for car
10x gallons 87 octane gasoline for generator
1x bottle oil for generator
1x can PB Blaster
2x can brake cleaner

Trailer/towing spares:
2x spare wheels/tires
6x spare trailer lug nuts (need to obtain)
1x spare trailer hub/brake assembly (need to obtain)
1x collapsible lug wrench that can be used for truck and trailer lugs
1x ramp for changing trailer tire
Various spare tie down straps and axle straps
Come-along manual winch and chain (will be installing powered winch whenever I can find the time)

Spare parts for car:
1x alternator (from parts car)
1x starter (from parts car)
1x OEM fuel pump assembly (from parts car)
1x set spark plug wires
2x set spark plugs
1x ignition coilpack
2x cam angle sensor
1x crank sensor
1x clutch slave cylinder
1x clutch master cylinder
1x brake master cylinder and booster assembly
1x set front brake pads
1x set rear brake pads
Set of front and rear rotors (need to obtain)
1x water pump and timing belt set (used but in okay condition, will replace with new spares eventually)
1x serpentine belt
Various suspension related bolts (from parts car)
1x endlink (need to swap for adjustable as I am no longer on OEM)
1x inner and outer tie rod (need to obtain)
1x ELBJ (need to obtain)
1x set OEM brake lines
1x set of "B" wheels/tires
1x set of dedicated rain wheels/tires (need to obtain)
Spare lug nuts (need to obtain)

Camping:
Yamaha 3000W Invertor Generator if no power available (trailer has A/C and microwave along with various lights)
Various extension cords for hooking trailer to power at the track (if available)
1x infrared space heater for colder months
1x collapsible camping grill
1x large propane tank
2x small propane spares bottles
2x zero-gravity collapsible chairs\
2x collapsible bag chairs
1x large folding camping table
2x small folding camping trays
2x sleeping bags
2x air mattress
Random crap for dog
3x battery powered lanterns
1x flashlight
1x first aid kit
Various sun screens/bug sprays
Cooler for beer
Cooler for food
1x 12x12 pop up canopy (might switch to 2x 10x10 canopies instead)

The great thing is that even with all this crap I still have plenty of room in the trailer and bed of truck. It's all fairly efficiently packed and most of it stays in the trailer throughout the season so I don't have to constantly load/unload it all. Hoping soon to be able to afford some better quality spares and stuff that I know for a fact I need to get like spare front hubs.
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Old 01-13-2019, 11:36 AM
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The beauty of SM racing; everyone has basically the same parts so you can get away with loaning spares ect if you don't pack everything, that said I'm usually the guy loaning out parts since I tend to bring the kitchen sink with me to the track. Apart from spares I bring my full tool box from the garage, basically everything but the welder comes to the track with me now.

My car/usage: NB2 Spec Pinata, the odd HDPE (40-1000 mile tows), 24' enclosed trailer - 2005 Dodge diesel tow rig

Fluids:
-4L 0w-40 T6 Rotella (doubles as tow rig oil)
-2L Redline trans fluid
-1L Redline gear oil
-1L brake fluid
-5gal distilled water (rad/cool suit water)
-couple drain pans and disposable containers
-white spray paint (what contact?)
-Super 77 spray glue
-Grease (trailer bearing/gen purpose)
-Brake slider pin super lube
-Windex/Rainex
-Loctite

Suspension/Brakes:
1x quality/loaded front hub
2x cheap throw away front hubs
2x OEM lower ball joint
2x OEM tie rod end
1x OEM inner tie rod end
2x front/rear rotors
1x set new front/rear pads
1x set f/r take off pads >50%
1x full set of SS brake lines
1x full set of control arms with bolts (eccentric bushings installed)
2x adjustable sway bar endlinks
1x set caliper clips/springs
4x replacement lugs
2x axles nuts f/r
4x Advanced Autosport camber bolts

Wheels and Tires:
1x set of sticker SM7's mounted
2x sets of scrubbed SM7's mounted
1x set of SM7's on 15x9 (for testing/HDPE/1hr non-SM race a weekend)
1x set of wheels for transport

Engine/drivetrain:
1x 5speed trans
1x clutch slave
1x timing belt/alt belt (serp. belt for truck)
1x alternator (rebuilt/new)
2x rubber/poly exhaust hangers
1x OEM radiator + radiator cap
1x Spare fuel pump hanger/pump/oem sock
1x set (cleaned) injectors/harness

Fasteners/miscellaneous:
-Assortment of M6, M8, M10 fasteners (ARP crank/Water pump pulley bolts)
-Assorted spare electrical connectors. ring terminals, butt splices, bullet connectors, etc.
-Spare fuses (variety of sizes and amperages)
-Spare wire in various gauges
-Duct tape, electrical tape, teflon tape, painter's tape
-**** ton of zipties in all sizes, race wire, mechanics wire
-brake light bulbs, lots!
-assorted vacuum and coolant hoses and vacuum caps
-tire plug kit

Justifications/Things that have cost track time/wins (myself or competitors):
-Inner tie rod damage
-Steering rack mount (tire wall contact)
-Alternator rectifier failure
-Front caliper bracket damage when hub failed
-No spare brake lines
-Long rear lower control arm bolt
-Rear diff housing failure
-Fuel sock, then fuel sock again when non-oem used..
-Injector partial failure
-Fuel pump failure
-Crank pulley bolt failure
-Flat tire from broken mirror pickup in sticker tires
-Axle boot failure (Super 77 glue saved it just long enough to finish the day)
-Sway bar mounting tab on F-LCA failure
-Rear hub upper rubber bushing
-Exhaust hanger failure
-Damaged rad
-Diff fill plug not torqued
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:52 PM
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Wow, you guys roll heavy. I'm just doing HPDE's, 1 or 2 day events 2-3 hours from home.
I bring...
- Full gallon of Rotella T6
- Gallon of distilled water
- Quart of DOT4
- Quart of MT90
- Extra brake pads
- Jack and two stands
- Various tapes (gaffer, electrical, heat reflective) and zip ties
- Windex, rainx and fogx (most critical thing I've ever brought to a race track in a car with no a/c to defrost)
- Impact gun
- Tool box (full assortment of sockets, wrenches, pliers, etc)

That's about it. I suppose it's not as mission critical for me since I'm not racing, and I'm an instructor so if my car breaks I'm really only out the cost of gas to get down there.
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Old Yesterday, 03:56 AM
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Couple of great lists here.

I have a 80cu.ft nitrogen bottle mounted in my trailer, but I need to get a longer coil hose for it.

I definitely need to add a portable worklight and a couple of extension cords to my trailer. It had two 500w halogen built-in flood lights which I swapped for 60w LEDs, but a couple of small portable LED lights for a night trans swap would be very helpful. I did outfit the trailer with a small solar setup, and swapped all the interior lights for LED bulbs (trailer has 4x 4ft fixtures inside, so nice). Interior lights are now only 115w, plus the pair of 60w exterior floods. On a single 95Ah marine battery and a 500w inverter, I can run outlets and interior lights without having to have the generator running constantly. I also have a 100w solar panel on the roof, which is enough so that I never have to worry about the house battery. My trailer has an electric tongue jack so having the battery go dead is really annoying. I also have a big winch under the workbench - not sure if I would ever have spent the money to install it myself, but when I do use it, it makes life so easy.

(I should re-mount a big fire extinguisher in my trailer to put out the inevitable electrical fire. )

When I bought my generator (Honda EU2200i) I decided to run it on premium gas, same as the race car. A friend and member here who shall remain nameless accidentally put 87 octane generator gas in his race car at an event and missed some track time as a result. If I run my generator continuously for an entire weekend (which I never do), it would consume maybe 7gal of gas, which means it costs me an extra $1.40 (max) per weekend to never have to worry about having the wrong gas around. Well worth it. I also need to get the extended run adapter for my generator so I can run it longer than 3hrs without refilling.

I have two spare tires with extra lugs for the trailer, but I need to get a full spare brake/bearing setup. Trailer folks, we should all be carrying an entire assembly from axle flange out. If a bearing fails, it typically trashes the entire brake drum/rotor as well. I also tried one of those tire ramp things, but my enclosed is ~9k fully loaded and the tire ramp was having none of it. My little aluminum HF jack also won't even come close to lifting the trailer when it was loaded. I ended up with a high-lift bottle jack from Amazon that works much better.

I need to add an alternator and starter to my motor spares bin. Alternator will get tested before it goes in.

Quigs, how much electric heater do you need to keep the trailer comfortable at night in ~40deg weather? I have a ~1200w unit I use in my office at work that I was going to try out.

I cannot remember if I have a first aid kit in my trailer or not, that's a great addition.

I unearthed what I think is a spare 1.8L diff rear housing in the shop last week that I should clean up and throw in the trailer as well. I have broken the rear ears from big curb hits before. My 3.63 OSG will get KMiata braces but it's still not a bad addition.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old Yesterday, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I need to add an alternator and starter to my motor spares bin. Alternator will get tested before it goes in.
For our enduro races, i doubt we'd ever bother with a starter replacement, as it's too easy to push start. MS might be another issue as they required a longer crank however.

We went through about a dozen alternators last year with our BP. We found a bunch with an m6 battery stud from WorldPac that LOVED to die, finally had decent luck with an O'Rilleys unit with an m8 stud. Had we stayed with the BP we would probably be using OEM Mazda alternator, damn the costs. Another huge benefit was ducting the alternator from the passenger blinker hole. They'll all test fine out of the box unless they're seriously tossed around in shipping. It's whether they're still below 15v after a few hours of racing. The cheap Chinese electronics and windings just over heat.

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Old Yesterday, 03:50 PM
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FLAPS alternators are notorious for being absolute trash. Not even sure I would trust an OEM-provided alternator given the age of the car. I was going to grab a used OEM one.

I would never change a starter motor in an enduro car, but if the starter on an HPDE car died on Saturday morning, I would probably take the 45min at lunch and swap it.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old Yesterday, 04:05 PM
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RE heater: a good sleeping bag works in sub 0* weather, 40* will be fine

What about just a few 2x4s screwed together for a trailer ramp, I've used that in the past, but not on a trailer your size.

I run advanced Auto parts axles because I'm stupid. So I carry a spare one of those.

Also after Laguna last year I might carry a spare set of uprights, haven't decided yet.

Now that I'm towing I might actually end up carrying less. When driving to the track it's imperative that you can fix anything at all, just to get home.

What does everyone do for tow rig spares? A broken tow rig is almost worse than a broken race car.

I like the idea of carrying a full axle out assembly for the trailer. I'll look into what my trailer requires for that.
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Old Yesterday, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by curly View Post
For our enduro races, i doubt we'd ever bother with a starter replacement, as it's too easy to push start. MS might be another issue as they required a longer crank however.
You can roll/push start a MS no problem. Although, going on track without a way to restart is kind of a dick move if the club doesn't do hot pulls.
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Old Yesterday, 05:41 PM
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I'm actually thinking about bringing my truck and trailer on a truck and trailer so that if my truck and trailer breaks I've got a truck and trailer to put my truck and trailer on.
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Old Yesterday, 06:56 PM
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18' open trailer with top mounted tire-rack. Typically a TT weekend while instructing with an occasional HPDE. W2W events to happen this season.


Before every weekend I have a ritual of going to the store and getting a 24+ pack of water and some gatorade to mix with it. I also get an assortment of beer and snacks. One of my earliest track days I got caught in the heat without enough water, it came up on me quick and it sucked.


Misc.:
Cooler w/ water and beer
Snacks
EZ up
2x chairs
Lap-top
Communicator(instructing)
AIM
Gopro + batteries
helmet, suit, gloves, shoes, socks, hans
rain jacket and flippy-flops(loading the car in the ****-pouring rain sucks with shoes)


Tools:
4x jackstands
1x aluminum racing jack
tool-box with typical socks/wrenches, screw drivers, etc
tool-bag with odd tools like c-clamps, bj splitter, brake bleeding parts, etc
BFH
Zip-ties
Different types of tape
window cleaner

Fluids:
4+ qt T6
2x 1L of brake fluid
1gal of water
5gal jug of inexpensive 93 locally

Parts for car:
Tires A set, 205 R7s stickers/low HC
Tires B set, 205 R7s practice or using if no one shows
Tires C set, 205 R7s ride-alongs or non-competition
1x alternator
1x NB1 coilpack
1x front hub
2x front rotors
1x front pads
1x accessory belt
Up to 180lbs of ballast(lifting weights) along with mounting components
Assortment of fasteners



Admittedly I would call it a weekend if I had a.... engine, transmission, waterpump, diff, rear hub/bearing, axle.... go out.

Thing that I will add to my list after reading this thread:
NB1 crank sensor
slave cylinder
rear spindle assembly(Sadfab hubs) to bolt on
another front hub
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Old Yesterday, 07:33 PM
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I would totally swap a water pump in the paddock. That's maybe 60 minutes in and out on a race car. I have never personally used my TB/WP spares, but I have definitely loaned them out to others.

The only rear bearing failure I've ever had was on an unknown-mileage hub and bearing, and then the hub failure on that same corner 2 years later. Since I am religious about doing fresh rear hubs/bearings once a year, I don't carry spare uprights.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old Yesterday, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by flier129 View Post
Admittedly I would call it a weekend if I had a.... engine, transmission, waterpump, diff, rear hub/bearing, axle.... go out.
Sometimes late night swaps are just as much fun as the track time! Swapping engine in a parking lot in Salinas til 5am to make it back on track by 8 is almost as memorable as driving MRLS.. almost.

I haven't done my own rear wb at the track but I've helped others, trailer jack works decently well as a impromptu press.

Tow rig/trailer spares; only thing I've had issues with is a crank position sensor on the dodge and tires on the trailer. Not sure what else I would carry for the truck (other than the serp belt) but a brake/hub assembly for the trailer is not a bad idea to add to the list.
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Old Today, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
When I bought my generator (Honda EU2200i) I decided to run it on premium gas, same as the race car. A friend and member here who shall remain nameless accidentally put 87 octane generator gas in his race car at an event and missed some track time as a result. If I run my generator continuously for an entire weekend (which I never do), it would consume maybe 7gal of gas, which means it costs me an extra $1.40 (max) per weekend to never have to worry about having the wrong gas around. Well worth it. I also need to get the extended run adapter for my generator so I can run it longer than 3hrs without refilling.
You make a good point about the marginal price difference between premium and regular gas that I honestly did not think of. I use a different style gas can for the generator that has a very short fill hose making it virtually impossible to use with the Miata's gas fill orientation. So it would be pretty difficult to use my generator gas in the car. Alternatively, the VP racing fuel jugs that I use for the car suck to use for the generator as it flows way too fast for my generator's shallow fill opening.

Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I have two spare tires with extra lugs for the trailer, but I need to get a full spare brake/bearing setup. Trailer folks, we should all be carrying an entire assembly from axle flange out. If a bearing fails, it typically trashes the entire brake drum/rotor as well. I also tried one of those tire ramp things, but my enclosed is ~9k fully loaded and the tire ramp was having none of it. My little aluminum HF jack also won't even come close to lifting the trailer when it was loaded. I ended up with a high-lift bottle jack from Amazon that works much better.
That's a very good point about the ramp. I have one of the commercial available ones specifically for changing trailer tires but have only used it once on my open trailer. I guess I need to try it out and see if it will work with the much heavier weight of the enclosed. Good idea with the bottle jack, that may be an addition to my list. I also really need to expedite getting a spare trailer hub...

Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Quigs, how much electric heater do you need to keep the trailer comfortable at night in ~40deg weather? I have a ~1200w unit I use in my office at work that I was going to try out.
The one I use is a 1500W max infrared heater that I just happened to have on hand from the heat pump in my house dying a few winters back. This past November at the track it dropped to 28-30*F at night and the trailer held around 54*F according to the cheap thermometer I have inside. I did not mind it, but my wife found it to be fairly miserable haha. The previous owner of my trailer did the insulation (allegedly) so I have no idea how truly well insulated the trailer is, but it was comfortable enough to justify staying overnight at the track for free. A forced air heater might make you FEEL warmer with it pointing right at you, the infrared takes a little while to get the air feeling warmer.
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