Reality Check: TSE 11.75 & spacers
The TSE 11.75" BBK is provided with 5mm spacers to give clearance with 6ul's. I run 15x9 TRM C3M's. I test fit my BBK and I do have clearance without the spacers, but not much. My questions are:
- In reality, how much deflection in the brake caliper mtg and/or wheel will I see on the track? How much clearance is needed? It looks like I have more clearance from caliper to spoke then from caliper to outer rim. - If I do use 5mm spacers, is it necessary to use longer studs? how much thread engagement can i expect without it (I understand this somewhat depends on my wheels) - Is my best option to just buy new wheel bearings at the same time so I can press the ARP studs in at work? I would live to avoid the cost of new wheel bearings/ARP studs/949 open ended lug nuts. . . Or at least put it off a season or 2 until I get to brake ducting and pull the hubs off anyway. |
You're good up to 1/4" spacers without new lugs, do your own conversion math. I might measure the hub and spacer and see how many threads that leaves you. I thought there was a "threads required" spec on 949's site.
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Originally Posted by 240_to_miata
(Post 863492)
The TSE 11.75" BBK is provided with 5mm spacers to give clearance with 6ul's. I run 15x9 TRM C3M's. I test fit my BBK and I do have clearance without the spacers, but not much. My questions are:
- In reality, how much deflection in the brake caliper mtg and/or wheel will I see on the track? How much clearance is needed? It looks like I have more clearance from caliper to spoke then from caliper to outer rim.
Originally Posted by 240_to_miata
(Post 863492)
- If I do use 5mm spacers, is it necessary to use longer studs? how much thread engagement can i expect without it (I understand this somewhat depends on my wheels)
- Is my best option to just buy new wheel bearings at the same time so I can press the ARP studs in at work? |
LOL sav... you gave me such a mechanical engineering response. No news to me, but thanks for the detailed response ( Im a ME that does machine design). My rule at work is usually 4 thread min. I just didnt know if anyone knew how many threads were actually left with these wheels and I am too lazy to re-test fit. As far as clearance I just have no idea what loads the brakes and wheels actually see so I would only be guessing at the deflection. Ill have to double check the gap, but I would be surprised if I had more than 1/8". Looks like I may do the spacers afterall.
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Has anyone tried these brakes with konig flatout 15x8?
I'd prefer 6ul's but they are very expensive in aus. |
Originally Posted by spaztikcamel
(Post 863636)
Has anyone tried these brakes with konig flatout 15x8?
I'd prefer 6ul's but they are very expensive in aus. |
damn! but thankyou for the reply.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 863521)
DON'T use a nut to draw the new studs into the hub.
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it is possible to stretch the bolt by pulling it through. Not the best idea. I will be pulling my hubs off and press the new studs in at work.
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Considering how easy they went in I find that VERY hard to belive. Do you have any evidence or links to back this claim up?
If an ARP stud can't withstand the *maybe* 40ft/lbs of force it took to pull them in with a standard ratchet, then they sure as hell won't manage the 80ft/lbs needed to torque a wheel. Which they do. So in my mind, it's perfectly fine to use the method I did provided you don't use air tools and take your time. It took literally half an hour to do both my fronts. No down time. |
I have the 6 piston wilwoods with my TSE kit, and the clearance is indeed tight, i think even tighter to the bell than the 4 pistons. Still need to go in with a feeler gauge and check for that 0.125" minimum...
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Originally Posted by falcon
(Post 864818)
Considering how easy they went in I find that VERY hard to belive. Do you have any evidence or links to back this claim up?
If an ARP stud can't withstand the *maybe* 40ft/lbs of force it took to pull them in with a standard ratchet, then they sure as hell won't manage the 80ft/lbs needed to torque a wheel. Which they do. So in my mind, it's perfectly fine to use the method I did provided you don't use air tools and take your time. It took literally half an hour to do both my fronts. No down time. |
No.
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Still waiting to hear from Savington as to why he says not to use the pull through method (not to be confused with the pull out method).
Sav? |
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