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Old 04-12-2012, 07:22 PM   #1
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Default Reality Check: TSE 11.75 & spacers

The TSE 11.75" BBK is provided with 5mm spacers to give clearance with 6ul's. I run 15x9 TRM C3M's. I test fit my BBK and I do have clearance without the spacers, but not much. My questions are:

- In reality, how much deflection in the brake caliper mtg and/or wheel will I see on the track? How much clearance is needed? It looks like I have more clearance from caliper to spoke then from caliper to outer rim.

- If I do use 5mm spacers, is it necessary to use longer studs? how much thread engagement can i expect without it (I understand this somewhat depends on my wheels)

- Is my best option to just buy new wheel bearings at the same time so I can press the ARP studs in at work?

I would live to avoid the cost of new wheel bearings/ARP studs/949 open ended lug nuts. . . Or at least put it off a season or 2 until I get to brake ducting and pull the hubs off anyway.
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:11 PM   #2
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You're good up to 1/4" spacers without new lugs, do your own conversion math. I might measure the hub and spacer and see how many threads that leaves you. I thought there was a "threads required" spec on 949's site.
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:25 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240_to_miata View Post
The TSE 11.75" BBK is provided with 5mm spacers to give clearance with 6ul's. I run 15x9 TRM C3M's. I test fit my BBK and I do have clearance without the spacers, but not much. My questions are:

- In reality, how much deflection in the brake caliper mtg and/or wheel will I see on the track? How much clearance is needed? It looks like I have more clearance from caliper to spoke then from caliper to outer rim.
The further away from the hub, the more clearance you need. At the hub, the clearance only realistically needs to be .020-.030", but at the bell of the wheel where we have the tightest clearance, you need at least 0.125" to clear safely. On a 15x9 6UL with the 5mm spacer, there's ~0.180" of clearance available.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 240_to_miata View Post
- If I do use 5mm spacers, is it necessary to use longer studs? how much thread engagement can i expect without it (I understand this somewhat depends on my wheels)

- Is my best option to just buy new wheel bearings at the same time so I can press the ARP studs in at work?
Depends on your wheels and how thick the hub is. You want to try and get 4-5 threads engaged at minimum. ARP studs aren't difficult to install, and you don't need to replace the bearings to do it - just pop the bearing off the spindle, press the old studs out, and press the new studs in. DON'T use a nut to draw the new studs into the hub.
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:31 PM   #4
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LOL sav... you gave me such a mechanical engineering response. No news to me, but thanks for the detailed response ( Im a ME that does machine design). My rule at work is usually 4 thread min. I just didnt know if anyone knew how many threads were actually left with these wheels and I am too lazy to re-test fit. As far as clearance I just have no idea what loads the brakes and wheels actually see so I would only be guessing at the deflection. Ill have to double check the gap, but I would be surprised if I had more than 1/8". Looks like I may do the spacers afterall.
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Old 04-13-2012, 12:51 AM   #5
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Has anyone tried these brakes with konig flatout 15x8?

I'd prefer 6ul's but they are very expensive in aus.
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:09 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Has anyone tried these brakes with konig flatout 15x8?

I'd prefer 6ul's but they are very expensive in aus.
Yup, they don't fit. Huge hub interference, couldn't even get close to checking spoke clearance.
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:07 PM   #7
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damn! but thankyou for the reply.
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
DON'T use a nut to draw the new studs into the hub.
Why? I've done this on multiple cars with perfect results including my Miata. I used a ratchet though, not air tools. One hand in the back making sure it is lined up and one hand slowly ratching. Works perfect every time. Didn't even need to pull the hub off. There is enough space in the back to wiggle the new stud in.
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:05 PM   #9
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it is possible to stretch the bolt by pulling it through. Not the best idea. I will be pulling my hubs off and press the new studs in at work.
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:13 PM   #10
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Considering how easy they went in I find that VERY hard to belive. Do you have any evidence or links to back this claim up?

If an ARP stud can't withstand the *maybe* 40ft/lbs of force it took to pull them in with a standard ratchet, then they sure as hell won't manage the 80ft/lbs needed to torque a wheel. Which they do. So in my mind, it's perfectly fine to use the method I did provided you don't use air tools and take your time. It took literally half an hour to do both my fronts. No down time.
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:29 PM   #11
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I have the 6 piston wilwoods with my TSE kit, and the clearance is indeed tight, i think even tighter to the bell than the 4 pistons. Still need to go in with a feeler gauge and check for that 0.125" minimum...
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falcon View Post
Considering how easy they went in I find that VERY hard to belive. Do you have any evidence or links to back this claim up?

If an ARP stud can't withstand the *maybe* 40ft/lbs of force it took to pull them in with a standard ratchet, then they sure as hell won't manage the 80ft/lbs needed to torque a wheel. Which they do. So in my mind, it's perfectly fine to use the method I did provided you don't use air tools and take your time. It took literally half an hour to do both my fronts. No down time.
Did these studs have the speed tips?
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:54 PM   #13
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No.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:40 PM   #14
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Still waiting to hear from Savington as to why he says not to use the pull through method (not to be confused with the pull out method).

Sav?
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