Safety Equipment
02-16-2010, 11:24 PM
#1
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Safety Equipment
Who is running the appropriate safety equipment for their racing needs? I consider FIA/SFI to be the industry standards so I'll use them for reference.
SFI Rated seats with a sufficient seat bracket?
SFI harness?
HANS devices or Defenders?
Fire systems?
Electrical kill switches?
Window nets?
Add whatever else you're using as you see fit.
SFI Rated seats with a sufficient seat bracket?
SFI harness?
HANS devices or Defenders?
Fire systems?
Electrical kill switches?
Window nets?
Add whatever else you're using as you see fit.
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02-16-2010, 11:45 PM
#2
Cpt. Slow
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If it's any help, I have the typical "club" setup. Which is a proper roll bar with FIA rated harness and seat. G-force 6 point camlock harness, and a MOMO Start seat. I don't believe you need seat brackets for proper fiberglass and carbon fiber seats, only the aluminum ones.
I think the biggest safety issue often ignored is harness mounting. I'm using the harness bar for the back, eye bolts in the floor for the 5/6th point, and the stock belt locations for the lap belt. Those are the last thing I want to fix though, as they're located too far back from the seat's harness slots.
I also have a fire bottle which is currently mounted on the harness bar and is therefore near useless in terms of quick access. Any mounting position on the floor required drilling through the frame rail. Not that I'd mind doing that, but I was hoping there was a method that didn't require two holes and a 3" bolt.
I think the biggest safety issue often ignored is harness mounting. I'm using the harness bar for the back, eye bolts in the floor for the 5/6th point, and the stock belt locations for the lap belt. Those are the last thing I want to fix though, as they're located too far back from the seat's harness slots.
I also have a fire bottle which is currently mounted on the harness bar and is therefore near useless in terms of quick access. Any mounting position on the floor required drilling through the frame rail. Not that I'd mind doing that, but I was hoping there was a method that didn't require two holes and a 3" bolt.
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02-19-2010, 01:08 AM
#3
After reading about Charles Espenlaubs fire in the recent GRM I have a new found appreciation for the importance of safety gear. I think there are a lot of guys on this site tracking some pretty quick cars without half of the safety gear they probably should have (me included). As they say in the motorcycle world dress for the crash not the ride...
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02-19-2010, 08:40 AM
#4
This true up to a certain number of years after manufacture. In some sanctioning bodies you are required to have the seat replaced or you can install a seat back brace and the seat will be good indefinitely. Really depends on your sanctioning body and such. Hope this helps...
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02-19-2010, 09:36 AM
#5
Same here for the typical club setup. Hard Dog rollbar with harness bar, FIA rated seat and a Willans 5pt harness properly mounted. No fire system yet. Kill switch is lying around somewhere, but I can't be bothered to install that right now as I'd have to redo all the wiring to the battery.
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02-19-2010, 09:45 AM
#6
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Personally, I don't trust myself as far as safety.
I have installed the harnesses myself, and made sure my mechanics installed the cage (bolt-in), and bolted the seats to factory mounts (I'm short enough), but, I ALWAYS have my safety equipment reviewed by my Spec builder.
I want the guy with huge experience in crashes to know what to do to avoid them.
Fire suppression? If you have the money to spend, sure. I only do HPDE, and a fire extinguisher is all they require, which is not for me, but, for the other guy.
I've been told, "if there's a fire in your car, GTFO".
If you're running wheel-to-wheel, window nets and driver nets are a must. They'll keep you in place.
Hans is nice, but, if you ever in another car, it will be useless without a proper harness.
Tow hooks, battery kill, and fuel cutoff are good ideas, or else, the big boys wouldn't run them
I have installed the harnesses myself, and made sure my mechanics installed the cage (bolt-in), and bolted the seats to factory mounts (I'm short enough), but, I ALWAYS have my safety equipment reviewed by my Spec builder.
I want the guy with huge experience in crashes to know what to do to avoid them.
Fire suppression? If you have the money to spend, sure. I only do HPDE, and a fire extinguisher is all they require, which is not for me, but, for the other guy.
I've been told, "if there's a fire in your car, GTFO".
If you're running wheel-to-wheel, window nets and driver nets are a must. They'll keep you in place.
Hans is nice, but, if you ever in another car, it will be useless without a proper harness.
Tow hooks, battery kill, and fuel cutoff are good ideas, or else, the big boys wouldn't run them
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02-19-2010, 01:02 PM
#7
Cpt. Slow
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I have the tow hooks as well, mostly for looks, are they even considered a safety item? The work involved in a battery cut off switch is what's stopping me, since we have alternators. Lame reason, I know.
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03-01-2010, 04:29 PM
#10
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Curly the power cut switch is not that hard to install. Go to advanced-autosports site and check out their cut switch I installed it into my 91 spec. It was very simple to do. Don't wory about the alternator and all. If you wire it properly it wont matter adn will cut that as well.
Have a great day,
Jared
Have a great day,
Jared
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03-01-2010, 10:03 PM
#12
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After reading about Charles Espenlaubs fire in the recent GRM I have a new found appreciation for the importance of safety gear. I think there are a lot of guys on this site tracking some pretty quick cars without half of the safety gear they probably should have (me included). As they say in the motorcycle world dress for the crash not the ride...
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03-01-2010, 10:25 PM
#13
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Curly the power cut switch is not that hard to install. Go to advanced-autosports site and check out their cut switch I installed it into my 91 spec. It was very simple to do. Don't wory about the alternator and all. If you wire it properly it wont matter adn will cut that as well.
Have a great day,
Jared
Have a great day,
Jared
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03-01-2010, 10:43 PM
#14
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Cage, 6pt harness, seat with halo (side head restraints), HANS, fire suit/gloves/shoes/balaclava, window net, fire suppression system, and battery cutoff switch for me. Probably wouldn't wear the balaclava if it wasn't required if you have facial hair, but would wear everything else.
Yes, if you just have a fire bottle I would agree. That's why I have a fire suppression system. Pull the lever and GTFO.
HANS works with pretty much any harness.... so no, it isn't useless if you get in another car.
hehehe.
Fire suppression? If you have the money to spend, sure. I only do HPDE, and a fire extinguisher is all they require, which is not for me, but, for the other guy.
I've been told, "if there's a fire in your car, GTFO".
If you're running wheel-to-wheel, window nets and driver nets are a must. They'll keep you in place.
Hans is nice, but, if you ever in another car, it will be useless without a proper harness.
Tow hooks, battery kill, and fuel cutoff are good ideas, or else, the big boys wouldn't run them
I've been told, "if there's a fire in your car, GTFO".
If you're running wheel-to-wheel, window nets and driver nets are a must. They'll keep you in place.
Hans is nice, but, if you ever in another car, it will be useless without a proper harness.
Tow hooks, battery kill, and fuel cutoff are good ideas, or else, the big boys wouldn't run them
HANS works with pretty much any harness.... so no, it isn't useless if you get in another car.
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03-02-2010, 01:40 AM
#16
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Have a great day,
Jared
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03-02-2010, 05:09 AM
#18
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After doing too many HPDEs in a t-shirt and jeans, I upgraded everything at the end of last year. HANS, 2-layer suit, underwear, gloves, shoes, full cage, halo seat, and window nets for passenger and driver.
The good cutoff switches are 6 pole:
-Battery positive to terminal A
-Terminal B to alternator
-alternator to Terminal C
-Terminal D to ground via a 3ohm resistor (IIRC, they supply the resistor)
-Ignition switch to terminal E
-Terminal F to ignition coils/main relay
When the switch is active, terminals A/B and E/F are connected, and terminals C/D are not. When you throw the switch, it disconnects the battery from the alternator, but connects the alternator to the chassis through a resistor which allows all of the power that the alternator produces from the point you shut the motor down to the point the motor stops turning to find its way to chassis ground without harming the electronics (ECU, etc).
The hardest part is running the wires themselves.
-Battery positive to terminal A
-Terminal B to alternator
-alternator to Terminal C
-Terminal D to ground via a 3ohm resistor (IIRC, they supply the resistor)
-Ignition switch to terminal E
-Terminal F to ignition coils/main relay
When the switch is active, terminals A/B and E/F are connected, and terminals C/D are not. When you throw the switch, it disconnects the battery from the alternator, but connects the alternator to the chassis through a resistor which allows all of the power that the alternator produces from the point you shut the motor down to the point the motor stops turning to find its way to chassis ground without harming the electronics (ECU, etc).
The hardest part is running the wires themselves.
Last edited by Savington; 03-02-2010 at 05:22 AM.
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03-02-2010, 11:42 AM
#19
After doing too many HPDEs in a t-shirt and jeans, I upgraded everything at the end of last year. HANS, 2-layer suit, underwear, gloves, shoes, full cage, halo seat, and window nets for passenger and driver.
The good cutoff switches are 6 pole:
-Battery positive to terminal A
-Terminal B to alternator
-alternator to Terminal C
-Terminal D to ground via a 3ohm resistor (IIRC, they supply the resistor)
-Ignition switch to terminal E
-Terminal F to ignition coils/main relay
When the switch is active, terminals A/B and E/F are connected, and terminals C/D are not. When you throw the switch, it disconnects the battery from the alternator, but connects the alternator to the chassis through a resistor which allows all of the power that the alternator produces from the point you shut the motor down to the point the motor stops turning to find its way to chassis ground without harming the electronics (ECU, etc).
The hardest part is running the wires themselves.
The good cutoff switches are 6 pole:
-Battery positive to terminal A
-Terminal B to alternator
-alternator to Terminal C
-Terminal D to ground via a 3ohm resistor (IIRC, they supply the resistor)
-Ignition switch to terminal E
-Terminal F to ignition coils/main relay
When the switch is active, terminals A/B and E/F are connected, and terminals C/D are not. When you throw the switch, it disconnects the battery from the alternator, but connects the alternator to the chassis through a resistor which allows all of the power that the alternator produces from the point you shut the motor down to the point the motor stops turning to find its way to chassis ground without harming the electronics (ECU, etc).
The hardest part is running the wires themselves.
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03-02-2010, 02:14 PM
#20
i'm gonna upgrade my 2 piece g-force suit to a 2 or 3 layer suit sometime this year. i'll have the nomex or carbon-x undershirt, pants, socks shortly. adding a cutoff switch (already have that)
right now i have the usual 4pt. roll bar, 5 pt. harness, alum. ultrashield seat with steel bracing to roll bar, single layer jacket/pants, mid top racing shoes, 2 layer gloves, neck brace/helmet support, fire extinguisher on alum. bracket bolted to the oem seat bolt (pass. seat removed)
right now i have the usual 4pt. roll bar, 5 pt. harness, alum. ultrashield seat with steel bracing to roll bar, single layer jacket/pants, mid top racing shoes, 2 layer gloves, neck brace/helmet support, fire extinguisher on alum. bracket bolted to the oem seat bolt (pass. seat removed)
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