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Old 01-12-2012, 06:51 AM   #61
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Nice work!!!
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:46 AM   #62
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Doh, I just rotozip'd my front bumper in half this last weekend too. This would have been a much easier project.

I saw the thread on the nasaforums about the NB one. Did they ever get an official confirmation if that takes the 2 points in G.4 for canards on the splats?
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:18 AM   #63
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Please update when the nb2 is out
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:48 AM   #64
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How much understeer will a car that was neutral before adding the front air dam have without a matching rear wing? I would like to get the air dam but can't afford the wing at this point, better to just save my money and get both at the same time down the road? Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:49 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comradefks View Post
How much understeer will a car that was neutral before adding the front air dam have without a matching rear wing? I would like to get the air dam but can't afford the wing at this point, better to just save my money and get both at the same time down the road? Thanks.
UNDERsteer?! None.
More like OVERsteer rodeo.
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:34 PM   #66
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UNDERsteer?! None.
More like OVERsteer rodeo.
Sorry brain farted on that one. Oversteer, definitely. Assuming the air dam isn't worth getting unless you have something pushing that bad of the car down as well.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:28 AM   #67
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Is the 01 ever going to come out?
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:37 PM   #68
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No, sorry
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:16 PM   #69
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I hadn't seen this thread before, didn't know my car was a star feature. The air dam works great to balance out the wing. I mount it with 2 - 10/24" nylon bolts using wing nuts at each fender horn end [look close at stomin's pics] and 2 in the center in the grille opening. They brake away really well. The only problem then is that you have to glass the 3 pieces you end up with back together after you run over it, which i've done several times from off track excursions, but very easy to do in about 2 hrs or less of work. This is why I have 2 of them at the track. I would highly reccomend it. This is a track only car so I really don't care about the color matching as I take it off to load the car on the trailer. The front bumper has been fixed an painted also since normans pics.. also now have a 10# hardtop, also from a friend of emillio's in buttonwllow. I have went to 14 kb frt springs and 9 kb rear. The car sits at 4" front and 41/4" rear from the pinchweld. I would not reccomend this for the street as anything over 3" high well be hit.

Last edited by jmann; 02-12-2013 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:33 PM   #70
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So I have my wallet in hand and i am ready to make a decision on front aero to go with the GTC-200 wing w gurney i ordered. I was originally thinking about doing the Crusher style front end, but i would end up paying someone to build that because i lack a combination of skills, tools, and time.

I have been looking at this part and reading this thread and i think the NA part may be a better option for me. i have some questions to ask jmann and others that have used these.

first, jmann it appears yours is banged up badly, is your car particularly low, or are your springs particularly soft, or do you just go off a lot (no offence lol)? I'm just wondering if the air dam is that low or if other factors contributed to the damage. id hate to kill this the first track day, i rarely go off but i have my days and i use the curbs.

also, my car isn't super low, but i already have to use the longest and thickest race ramps to get it on and off the trailer and it scrapes the nose getting into my driveway already. I don't want to have to use or have built a removable splitter to go with the airdam.

i know what the description says, but will this balance out the GTC-200 wing with no splitter without significantly impacting the performance of the wing? to try and explain that a bit better, if it has no splitter underneath the air dam will that mean you can't use the full downforce available from the wing by having to run less of an angle? if im going to give up significant amounts of lap time by not having a splitter under it, it doesn't make sense to buy this if i must have a splitter built anyway.


I am also curious what you guys are doing for brake cooling. I have one of those factory lower front lips for the NA with brake cooling openings. i would assume it would be a matter of a hole saw and some sort of attachment for the hoses. What would be recommended for that?

in case it's important, the car isn't street driven other than an occasional trip down the block and ive ordered some xida-s' with 800/500 springs if that matters.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:37 PM   #71
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Who's building the Crusher bumper?

It's a plastic air dam, it's supposed to get torn up over curbing and rocks and stuff.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:48 PM   #72
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Who's building the Crusher bumper?

It's a plastic air dam, it's supposed to get torn up over curbing and rocks and stuff.
Vorshlag does that sort of stuff, it would be crazy expensive though. i think they charge $100 an hour for fab work, another reason i was looking at this. I know it will get dinged, I'm just wondering how well it will survive track life i guess. I'd like to know short of a big off or running over a 911 that it will last a season or so, or if it will get whittled away in a few track days. I'm also curious why it only ships to business addresses, if that GTC-200 box can come UPS, surely that air dam box can.

mostly i need you to hold my hand and tell me it will make me faster Hustler.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:57 PM   #73
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I'm not sure what material we would use, but the bottom 4" or so are flexible so that you can run over curbs and stuff. If we build a splitter our of birch, I will need a mig to weld-up the stick-mounts. We could potentially do it with aluminum straps, but I think we want something stronger than that. There is a balance between rigid mounts and mounts that bend when you run over stuff. We could do square-bar on the rad support or whatever, then use 90* metal pieces to mount.

Step one is making that car cool, step two is aero.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:58 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanem View Post
I am also curious what you guys are doing for brake cooling. I have one of those factory lower front lips for the NA with brake cooling openings. i would assume it would be a matter of a hole saw and some sort of attachment for the hoses. What would be recommended for that?
You want TSE duct flange thingies and some short NACA ducts. We will build the brake ducting off the "heat exchanger box".
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:05 PM   #75
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You want TSE duct flange thingies and some short NACA ducts. We will build the brake ducting off the "heat exchanger box".
sounds good
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:20 PM   #76
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You want TSE duct flange thingies and some short NACA ducts. We will build the brake ducting off the "heat exchanger box".
oh, if you meant these:

Trackspeed Engineering

i already have the prawn thingies of some brand on the car at the wheels, I was talking about on the air dam side of the picture.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:29 PM   #77
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Quote:
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oh, if you meant these:

Trackspeed Engineering

i already have the prawn thingies of some brand on the car at the wheels, I was talking about on the air dam side of the picture.
Right now you need to take some muscle relaxors, build ducting, and track the car.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:35 PM   #78
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Right now you need to take some muscle relaxors, build ducting, and track the car.
but i have this need to go faster!
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:50 PM   #79
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but i have this need to go faster!
Then have fun doing it in a shotbox that overheats, queer.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:42 PM   #80
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The air dam is made of fiberglass and is very easy to fix. If you are having a hard time getting in your drive now, you probably won't with this air dam on. I have mine mounted with 10/24 nylon bolts with wing nuts. The bolts brake in any off track excursions, but then you usally end up running over it and get 3 pieces back. I also remove it to load on the trailer, I find that easier then building a 100 foot ramp. It is no big deal at all to glass back together though if you have done any fiberglass work and having raced corvettes for years I got pretty good at it. Almost any off track stuff is going to do some damage, some not so bad and you can use 200 mph tape until you hurt it worse in another event which is probably what you see in the picture. I just painted mine with a rattle can so rock chips and marbles hitting it speckles it alot. My car is track only so I really don't care to much about looks, I just didn't want it bright white gelcote. I am more concerned with function. Speaking of that, I doubt you want to run the full 14* of wing in the car unless your autox as you well be killing off straight away speed. I have run up to 7* and the air dam balances the car fine at that angle. I now run 0 to 2* most of the time. A splitter well give you more down force but also create some more drag, how much I don't know, I haven't found it needed, nor do I want to have to fix that mess after going off the track and I do tend to drive on the edge and if you never go off the track you aren't being all you can be as they say. I've raced with some really good drivers over the years and everyone that is running on the edge goes off now and then and I fully expect to every once in awhile, that is why I have 2 of them with me at the track. Hope this answers all your questions. One other thing your car well be different as you driving style and car suspension and setup well dictate maybe other results.
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