Turbo track crew: Intercoolers, Radiators, Re-routes.
#1
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Turbo track crew: Intercoolers, Radiators, Re-routes.
My question is geared to the turbo miata track drivers out there and their cooling systems.
Last track event i attended with my v-mounted intercooler (CX RACING/E-BAY), fully ducted, vented hood, any koyo 55mm radiator i was seeing 230*F temps. I would guess ambient temp was 70*F TOPS. Temp sensor is in the spacer in the back of the head.
This pic shows the ducting, 1/2 the air into the radiator, 1/2 the air for the radiator. Sides, top, everything is ducted to be forced through the radiator and intercooler
My setup consist of:
koyo 55mm radiator
Coolant re-route w/ heater core return (which generally goes under the exhaust mani and back to the water pump inlet) goes post T-stat.
T-stat is in the back of my 99 head between the spacer and the head which then goes back to the radiator.
2 bottles of water wetter mixed with distilled water.
No rust anywhere, no gunk caught in the radiator or anything blocking it.
My question is how are all the other turbo miata track guys keeping things cool under there? Is the 55mm koyo just not enough with the new turbo setup? 230*F is entirely too hot, right?
I am really thinking the cx racing/ebay intercooler becomes more of an obstruction than a heat exchanger at ~ 250whp. I do not have any data logs when i get to this tempature, it only happens on track after about 5-10min of driving the car hard.
Thanks in advance
Last track event i attended with my v-mounted intercooler (CX RACING/E-BAY), fully ducted, vented hood, any koyo 55mm radiator i was seeing 230*F temps. I would guess ambient temp was 70*F TOPS. Temp sensor is in the spacer in the back of the head.
This pic shows the ducting, 1/2 the air into the radiator, 1/2 the air for the radiator. Sides, top, everything is ducted to be forced through the radiator and intercooler
My setup consist of:
koyo 55mm radiator
Coolant re-route w/ heater core return (which generally goes under the exhaust mani and back to the water pump inlet) goes post T-stat.
T-stat is in the back of my 99 head between the spacer and the head which then goes back to the radiator.
2 bottles of water wetter mixed with distilled water.
No rust anywhere, no gunk caught in the radiator or anything blocking it.
My question is how are all the other turbo miata track guys keeping things cool under there? Is the 55mm koyo just not enough with the new turbo setup? 230*F is entirely too hot, right?
I am really thinking the cx racing/ebay intercooler becomes more of an obstruction than a heat exchanger at ~ 250whp. I do not have any data logs when i get to this tempature, it only happens on track after about 5-10min of driving the car hard.
Thanks in advance
#2
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I say its the radiator. You have everything done up like savingaids and that's the only difference. I have my heat exchangers stacked with the huge "coolradiator.com" pos and it cools fine at 90* in Tulsa on a track that has evenly spaced corners that like to overheat brakes...which usually means the same for intercoolers.
What's the altitude at Laguna? If its higher than everywhere else we run, that may be the problem. Low ambient vapor pressure probably isn't helping you.
What's the altitude at Laguna? If its higher than everywhere else we run, that may be the problem. Low ambient vapor pressure probably isn't helping you.
#4
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I blame the radiator.
#8
oem opening is enough for 70F ambient temp. 4 suggestions:
1. on your heater core return, have you tried a small restrictor ? if you want more flow to the radiator, that's what you should do.
2. do you have an udertray. if not, pls get one.
3. block off TSI. they work against cooling.
4. with coolant reroute, it is very tricky to bleed it correctly. I had to raise the rear, to burp it out to the rear thermostat, then raise the front to bleed it through radiator cap. of use a vaccum to drip in the coolant.
1. on your heater core return, have you tried a small restrictor ? if you want more flow to the radiator, that's what you should do.
2. do you have an udertray. if not, pls get one.
3. block off TSI. they work against cooling.
4. with coolant reroute, it is very tricky to bleed it correctly. I had to raise the rear, to burp it out to the rear thermostat, then raise the front to bleed it through radiator cap. of use a vaccum to drip in the coolant.
#9
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We have even had trouble keeping it at operating temperature between dyno pulls.
edit: I may have been misunderstood, we had trouble keeping the car warm enough on the dyno because the thicker version of our radiator was too efficient. Absolutely no trouble with overheating ever.
Last edited by crashnscar; 02-17-2010 at 07:13 PM.
#11
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oem opening is enough for 70F ambient temp. 4 suggestions:
1. on your heater core return, have you tried a small restrictor ? if you want more flow to the radiator, that's what you should do.
2. do you have an udertray. if not, pls get one.
3. block off TSI. they work against cooling.
4. with coolant reroute, it is very tricky to bleed it correctly. I had to raise the rear, to burp it out to the rear thermostat, then raise the front to bleed it through radiator cap. of use a vaccum to drip in the coolant.
1. on your heater core return, have you tried a small restrictor ? if you want more flow to the radiator, that's what you should do.
2. do you have an udertray. if not, pls get one.
3. block off TSI. they work against cooling.
4. with coolant reroute, it is very tricky to bleed it correctly. I had to raise the rear, to burp it out to the rear thermostat, then raise the front to bleed it through radiator cap. of use a vaccum to drip in the coolant.
2. I did not have my under tray on since the front splitter went on. The bottom is ducted against the splitter, but ill for sure mock up the oem undertrey for my next track event.
3. TSIs are gone, and oem ones are back in since these readings.
4. Ill bleed the cooling system all different angles.
I should be looking into some new fans anyways..
Last edited by thesnowboarder; 02-17-2010 at 06:56 PM.
#16
I am curious to see how my car works on Laguna. I've only driven it in a stock powered 1.6l, it seemed like a pretty big use of HP track especially up the hill and down the front straight. Im planning to install brake ducting from the lower splitter openings to blow air on my Oil cooler mounted just in front of the steering rack. Ill probably duct the brakes while Im at it. I have a 55mm Godspeed rad with a 13" and 12" shrouded spal fans.
Bob
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