Tire Pr0n
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New track shoes for the Miata. I cannot wait to try them out at Texas World Speedway in a couple of months racing against some fast TTS competition.
Cue the porn music... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...4&d=1320935344 They will be going on 15x9 6ULs. |
:burncash:
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Will this work?
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Racing cars are all about turning money into noise and heat.
Lol at that porn music.awesome |
They worked awesome on my car. Make sure to start with at least 3 degrees in the front and 2.5 in the rear of camber. I found tire pressures of 26-28 hot to be ideal. Rotate midway through the day for best life. Don't head out with pressures to low or you will cord the outsides. It's best to start around 25 and bleed down midway through the session.
Enjoy! |
just get heat blankets then!
:rofl: |
Originally Posted by k24madness
(Post 794274)
They worked awesome on my car. Make sure to start with at least 3 degrees in the front and 2.5 in the rear of camber. I found tire pressures of 26-28 hot to be ideal. Rotate midway through the day for best life. Don't head out with pressures to low or you will cord the outsides. It's best to start around 25 and bleed down midway through the session.
Enjoy! Funny thing is, when I was using the Formula Atlantic Hoosier slicks last month, which are essentially the same size, and radials, the tire temperatures (probe type) were showing that the camber was OK. They were slightly warmer on the inside edge. However my hot pressures were a lot higher than 28 psi since I was desperately trying to get heat in them by adding more pressure. It was a cool, cloudy day and the track was cold. I should call Hoosier. I want this to be right so I do not cord the edges. |
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 794347)
I am camber challenged right now in the front. It is maxed out at about 2 degs. It might be time for some offset bushings or a V8R lower control arm.
Funny thing is, when I was using the Formula Atlantic Hoosier slicks last month, which are essentially the same size, and radials, the tire temperatures (probe type) were showing that the camber was OK. They were slightly warmer on the inside edge. However my hot pressures were a lot higher than 28 psi since I was desperately trying to get heat in them by adding more pressure. It was a cool, cloudy day and the track was cold. I should call Hoosier. I want this to be right so I do not cord the edges. I suggest you wait till you can get more camber in the car before trying them otherwise it will be a short love affair. |
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IMO- I'd address that camber issue before hitting the track. I ran at least -3.25 on the front with hoosier dot radials, more depending on the track.
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Thanks guys. Your feedback is consistent with what I have heard and read. More camber is on the way.
It's only money... It's only money... It's only money... |
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 794347)
I am camber challenged right now in the front. It is maxed out at about 2 degs.
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I have a non-stock K-member with the V8 swap. But I also had problems getting more than about -2.2 degs camber on my stock k-member 99 (lowered) as well. There was nothing bent on that car. This seems to be a common limit no?
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Definitely not a common limit, no. My black car is capable of ~3.4*, the red car is capable of at least that much. Both cars are set at 4/4.2 ride height, front camber on both is at 3.0*. Adjusters are not maxed out.
I am going to start at 3.4/3.0 on the R80s and see what that gets me. |
I agree- especially not if the car is lowered. I've had the same problem and even if it all looks straight, it's not. I've read of several SMs that have regained a full degree of negative camber just by replacing the lower arm and ball joint, stating that everything looks straight.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 795227)
I am going to start at 3.4/3.0 on the R80s and see what that gets me. |
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 795191)
I have a non-stock K-member with the V8 swap. But I also had problems getting more than about -2.2 degs camber on my stock k-member 99 (lowered) as well. There was nothing bent on that car. This seems to be a common limit no?
What subframe is your non-stock one based on (dimension-wise)? Shortening the uppers also make the coilover center in the "hole" :) |
Making the uppers shorter will also bring the top of the tire into the frame more, which doesn't have much room to spare anyways.
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Originally Posted by crashnscar
(Post 795412)
Making the uppers shorter will also bring the top of the tire into the frame more, which doesn't have much room to spare anyways.
Moving the lower ball joint is another option (lower OEM parts cost too). 1 degree change is about 10mm difference top-bottom of tire. Moving the upper ball-joint (to get that extra degree camber) will move the top 6.8mm Moving the bottom result in 3mm move. So a net difference of 3.8mm more inwards by modding the upper, but a 15x10 is probably tight however you look at it. The difference might be different (larger or smaller) when looking at frame contact at full (if used?) lock. |
Originally Posted by NiklasFalk
(Post 795403)
I only seem to be able to get -2 on NB subframes (about 4.5" pinch).
Full lock clearance with a 15x10 is a pipe dream. I would expect it to rub half a dozen things at full lock - the front bumper, the FSB, the UCA, your mom's tits, etc. We're looking for shock tower and fender clearance - the shock tower is very tight with the 10s. If I can compress to the bump stop and sweep the steering wheel 270* in either direction, then in my book it fits. |
I have ground clearance issues with the low engine mounting. Running low ride heights in the front, lower than 4.5", leaves me less than 2" of ground clearance to the k-member and the oil pan. At 4" I would have less than 1.5" of travel which is not enough even with 750# springs.
Agreed on the preference for moving the lower end of the knuckle outward, rather than the top of the knuckle inward. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 795459)
Drop the car half an inch and watch the magic happen.
Full lock clearance with a 15x10 is a pipe dream. I would expect it to rub half a dozen things at full lock - the front bumper, the FSB, the UCA, your mom's tits, etc. We're looking for shock tower and fender clearance - the shock tower is very tight with the 10s. If I can compress to the bump stop and sweep the steering wheel 270* in either direction, then in my book it fits. Have you checked things with the 245 installed on the 10? |
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 795496)
I have ground clearance issues with the low engine mounting. Running low ride heights in the front, lower than 4.5", leaves me less than 2" of ground clearance to the k-member and the oil pan. At 4" I would have less than 1.5" of travel which is not enough even with 750# springs.
Agreed on the preference for moving the lower end of the knuckle outward, rather than the top of the knuckle inward. |
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Originally Posted by k24madness
(Post 795522)
The 10's only go in 2mm further than the 9's. I was hoping all of the clearance issues would be limited to the fender side of things.
Have you checked things with the 245 installed on the 10? It's really hard to get good photos in our shop, so this is all I have for now. There's just no way to fit them in the front, and I've got the rear just about cleared on one side but it took a huge amount of work and looks like crap, so I ordered Autokonexion over-fenders today that add 30mm of clearance on all 4 corners. Hopefully that's enough to avoid rubbing at full bump. They are pretty god damn sexy, though. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1321317994 |
Thanks for the pic Sav.
If you get a chance can you test them on your '99 rental? I have the wheels on the way, but no tires yet. Curious how fitment will be on the NBs. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 795529)
My expectation is that ALL 10s will rub the FSB, and many will rub the UCA. This is all at full lock, though.
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 795529)
I ordered Autokonexion over-fenders today that add 30mm of clearance on all 4 corners. Hopefully that's enough to avoid rubbing at full bump.
I think the Autokonextion kit will be the perfect match for the 10's. I sold both sets of my 9's and will replace with 10's. |
Originally Posted by k24madness
(Post 795525)
We just installed some 900lb springs and set the ride height at 4" in a friends LS1 Miata. I don't remember the oil pan clearance though.
There's just no way to fit them in the front, and I've got the rear just about cleared on one side but it took a huge amount of work and looks like crap, That picture of the 10" wheels, now that is tire porn. So how did you get in touch with Autokonexion? I sent them an e-mail and called them twice. |
Originally Posted by tann3r
(Post 795584)
Thanks for the pic Sav.
If you get a chance can you test them on your '99 rental? I have the wheels on the way, but no tires yet. Curious how fitment will be on the NBs. |
my bad, confused trackspeed and 949racing's rentals.
Well I guess I'll have to see how much more I can roll my fenders. |
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 795608)
I have been seriously considering going to 900 lb springs. Dean Thomas (DTfastbear on m.n) is running 900/550 on his LS1 Miata and tried them with these tires. He was pretty pleased.
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Originally Posted by k24madness
(Post 795598)
If I am in a situation on track where the 10's rub the FSB or UCA because I am at full lock I will have bigger problems to worry about than a little bit of contact.
Welcome to my world. :) I think the Autokonextion kit will be the perfect match for the 10's. I sold both sets of my 9's and will replace with 10's. |
Originally Posted by k24madness
(Post 795623)
LOL that's who I was referring to. Those were my tires we tried.
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don't forget, cali tracks not = to Tx. tracks for the most part. we have alot more bumpy tracks. (and are bumpier too!, lol)
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 795529)
It's really hard to get good photos in our shop, so this is all I have for now. There's just no way to fit them in the front, and I've got the rear just about cleared on one side but it took a huge amount of work and looks like crap, so I ordered Autokonexion over-fenders today that add 30mm of clearance on all 4 corners. Hopefully that's enough to avoid rubbing at full bump.
They are pretty god damn sexy, though. The rears are a different story. Multiple layers of metal = you pretty much have to do a add-on flare. I've got the same Autokonexion rear flares (the small ones) as you ordered. -Ryan |
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 795744)
The rears are a different story. Multiple layers of metal = you pretty much have to do a add-on flare. I've got the same Autokonexion rear flares (the small ones) as you ordered. -Ryan Nick and I are both using the full-replacement rear quarters, not the mini-flares. |
Ah, blister fenders. I misread. I was going by memory that the rear flare I have adds ~30mm, and skimmed over that detail. Disregard then. The main benefit I saw to cutting the OEM fender and flaring it out was that it was better in terms of front aero than a add-on flare, but the blister fender accomplishes the same thing. Just costs a lot more than a cutting disc for the dremel ;)
-Ryan |
don't forget, cali tracks not = to Tx. tracks for the most part. we have alot more bumpy tracks. (and are bumpier too!, lol) So the tire engineer at Hoosier told me that -2 degs of camber is enough for this tire. Maybe he just wants me to cord the outside edge prematurely so they can sell me more tires :giggle: At any rate I'll take the emperical data presented here and start with increased camber, say at or more than -3.0 degs for starters, with careful tire temperature measurements. |
LOL, I meant we have more bumpy tracks, and more of them! But yeah, i for one am alot "bumpier" than those camel jockey's!
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