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Old 11-10-2011, 10:30 AM   #1
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New track shoes for the Miata. I cannot wait to try them out at Texas World Speedway in a couple of months racing against some fast TTS competition.

Cue the **** music...


They will be going on 15x9 6ULs.
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:10 AM   #2
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:18 AM   #3
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Will this work?

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Old 11-10-2011, 11:28 AM   #4
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Racing cars are all about turning money into noise and heat.

Lol at that **** music.awesome
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Old 11-10-2011, 04:34 PM   #5
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They worked awesome on my car. Make sure to start with at least 3 degrees in the front and 2.5 in the rear of camber. I found tire pressures of 26-28 hot to be ideal. Rotate midway through the day for best life. Don't head out with pressures to low or you will cord the outsides. It's best to start around 25 and bleed down midway through the session.

Enjoy!
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Old 11-10-2011, 05:28 PM   #6
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just get heat blankets then!
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Old 11-10-2011, 07:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k24madness View Post
They worked awesome on my car. Make sure to start with at least 3 degrees in the front and 2.5 in the rear of camber. I found tire pressures of 26-28 hot to be ideal. Rotate midway through the day for best life. Don't head out with pressures to low or you will cord the outsides. It's best to start around 25 and bleed down midway through the session.

Enjoy!
I am camber challenged right now in the front. It is maxed out at about 2 degs. It might be time for some offset bushings or a V8R lower control arm.

Funny thing is, when I was using the Formula Atlantic Hoosier slicks last month, which are essentially the same size, and radials, the tire temperatures (probe type) were showing that the camber was OK. They were slightly warmer on the inside edge. However my hot pressures were a lot higher than 28 psi since I was desperately trying to get heat in them by adding more pressure. It was a cool, cloudy day and the track was cold.

I should call Hoosier. I want this to be right so I do not cord the edges.
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Old 11-10-2011, 08:52 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
I am camber challenged right now in the front. It is maxed out at about 2 degs. It might be time for some offset bushings or a V8R lower control arm.

Funny thing is, when I was using the Formula Atlantic Hoosier slicks last month, which are essentially the same size, and radials, the tire temperatures (probe type) were showing that the camber was OK. They were slightly warmer on the inside edge. However my hot pressures were a lot higher than 28 psi since I was desperately trying to get heat in them by adding more pressure. It was a cool, cloudy day and the track was cold.

I should call Hoosier. I want this to be right so I do not cord the edges.
I killed mine on the first day after 6-7 sessions. The right front corded. I was running 2.5 degrees of camber F and 2 rear. Before I invest in another set I am going to swap in a NB subframe and modify the lower control arms for more camber.

I suggest you wait till you can get more camber in the car before trying them otherwise it will be a short love affair.
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Old 11-10-2011, 08:55 PM   #9
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Old 11-11-2011, 11:26 AM   #10
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IMO- I'd address that camber issue before hitting the track. I ran at least -3.25 on the front with hoosier dot radials, more depending on the track.
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Old 11-11-2011, 09:45 PM   #11
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Thanks guys. Your feedback is consistent with what I have heard and read. More camber is on the way.

It's only money... It's only money... It's only money...
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:51 PM   #12
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I am camber challenged right now in the front. It is maxed out at about 2 degs.
Something is bent. Start with the lower balljoint and go from there. I have no problem at all getting 3 degrees in either of my cars at 4" front ride height.
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:52 PM   #13
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I have a non-stock K-member with the V8 swap. But I also had problems getting more than about -2.2 degs camber on my stock k-member 99 (lowered) as well. There was nothing bent on that car. This seems to be a common limit no?
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:28 AM   #14
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Definitely not a common limit, no. My black car is capable of ~3.4*, the red car is capable of at least that much. Both cars are set at 4/4.2 ride height, front camber on both is at 3.0*. Adjusters are not maxed out.

I am going to start at 3.4/3.0 on the R80s and see what that gets me.
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Old 11-14-2011, 09:49 AM   #15
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I agree- especially not if the car is lowered. I've had the same problem and even if it all looks straight, it's not. I've read of several SMs that have regained a full degree of negative camber just by replacing the lower arm and ball joint, stating that everything looks straight.
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:37 PM   #16
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I am going to start at 3.4/3.0 on the R80s and see what that gets me.
I don't think you are going to need that much camber. When running the R80's at 2.5F & 2.0R the rear wear looked pretty good but the fronts needed more camber for sure. Next time out I am going to try 3F & 2.25R and measure tire temps.
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Old 11-14-2011, 03:11 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
I have a non-stock K-member with the V8 swap. But I also had problems getting more than about -2.2 degs camber on my stock k-member 99 (lowered) as well. There was nothing bent on that car. This seems to be a common limit no?
I only seem to be able to get -2 on NB subframes (about 4.5" pinch).
What subframe is your non-stock one based on (dimension-wise)?
Shortening the uppers also make the coilover center in the "hole"
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Old 11-14-2011, 03:23 PM   #18
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Making the uppers shorter will also bring the top of the tire into the frame more, which doesn't have much room to spare anyways.
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:49 PM   #19
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Making the uppers shorter will also bring the top of the tire into the frame more, which doesn't have much room to spare anyways.
Measure twice, cut once
Moving the lower ball joint is another option (lower OEM parts cost too).

1 degree change is about 10mm difference top-bottom of tire.
Moving the upper ball-joint (to get that extra degree camber) will move the top 6.8mm
Moving the bottom result in 3mm move.

So a net difference of 3.8mm more inwards by modding the upper, but a 15x10 is probably tight however you look at it.

The difference might be different (larger or smaller) when looking at frame contact at full (if used?) lock.
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:02 PM   #20
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Quote:
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I only seem to be able to get -2 on NB subframes (about 4.5" pinch).
Drop the car half an inch and watch the magic happen.

Full lock clearance with a 15x10 is a pipe dream. I would expect it to rub half a dozen things at full lock - the front bumper, the FSB, the UCA, your mom's ****, etc. We're looking for shock tower and fender clearance - the shock tower is very tight with the 10s. If I can compress to the bump stop and sweep the steering wheel 270* in either direction, then in my book it fits.
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