Hi K24, as i said a year or so ago, i love your car. You haven't or couldn't do a walk around video of it would you?

Probably a pain to do but would love to see some more detail of it and the fastback etc from all angles.

Dyno plot looks great, I am amazed at the steep curve/line up the revs...

I work on some better pics of the car. It now sports some fresh matte black paint.

holy Jesus, this thing is just ignorant.. i love it!

Wow, one heck of a build!

Thanks guys!

With the latest round of improvements the car is faster than ever. Dean Thomas wheeled it to a 1:41.6 last month at Sonoma Raceway on Hoosier R100's. I have been slowly closing the gap on his times. I will take some updated pics when I am at the track next weekend.

This thread needs updates. Badly!

absolutely!!!

Current holder of Fastest Miata at Infineon/Sonoma. Awesome car.

I am real happy with the car in every way. It's been getting some good use this year. With slicks the car is a monster!

I had some minor hick ups with the new motor. After 10hrs the intake valves needed to be changed because valve spring pressures were to light. We changed em out and shimmed the springs. The new seat pressures should eliminate that problem.

While the head was out being serviced I opted to make some changes to the brakes. I was real happy with the 11" 949 fronts/1.8 & 10.90 rears but I wanted better pedal feel. In went some 11.75 rotors, sport rear calipers with gutted e-brake adjusters and 1" 929 master. I also drilled the dynalite calipers for bridge bolts (from the dynalite narrow calipers). I am hoping for a epic pedal with all those changes.

I am out of town on business through October/November. When I return I am going to work with Tony at TC Design fine tuning the suspension and overall setup. The new 245 A7 will be out by then along with cooler weather so I am to break into the 1:30's with the car.

Do you feel like there's room for improvement in the rear brake setup? I've been wondering about a vented rear rotor and a non-floating caliper in the rear - not to dramatically increase the friction potential, but more to keep pad pressure even, rotor temps lower, (pad cost decreased too probably)... if anyone would be seeing limitations to the common sport rear setup, I'd expect it'd be you. Thoughts?

-Ryan

I have not collected rotor temps but based on pad life I am not worried about it. The biggest problem I found was caliper flex from the 1.8 rear calipers and the e-brake internal adjuster. Having full sport rears does increase bias quite a bit and is best matched with 11.75 fronts and larger MC. I had the 15/16" and regretted not going 1" right out of the gate.

You wouldn't look at mounting a suitable willwood on the rear and moving away from oem completely...?

I think that if I didn't need a handbrake for road use I would be looking at that.

At some point I will look at the FM powerlite rears or the upcoming TSE offerings. I had the sports on hand and still have pads for them so it does not make sense to change rite now. The sport rear calipers look much stronger so it should solve the outer pad taper problem.

Only reason to go Wilwood in the rear is to shave weight. Vented rear rotor is totally unnecessary and adds a huge amount of weight (like 3lbs per side).

I know, I have vented 11" rears right now. The only great part about it is rotating rotors front to rear same as you would with tires, just buy 2 new rotors each time, put them on the front and move the old fronts to the rear ;)

Is TSE working on a rear wilwood for solid rear rotor setup?

-Ryan

With handbrake........😀

I think noticed a new willwood caliper with cablebrake capability..?

It exists but it is for a vented rotor thickness, $250 per caliper, and I don't think pad selection is very good for it.

-Ryan

Hustler spoke otherwise (although bbundy tended to agree with you). I think Hustler mentioned wanting brake ducts as an alternative...(for the rears).

I can't imagine Hustler is hitting higher speeds than bbundy with a TTD car. Maybe track differences?

I think the faster you go the less the rears matter. With sticky tires (slicks etc) & high speed the car transfers more weight to the front during braking. The backs are doing some work during the intial application of brakes but once weight transfer happens there is not much grip back there.

Speed is not necessarily a factor for weight transfer (its not at all, unless the driver makes it so). The force applied on the car will determine your weight transfer and that is generally grip limited. Read here if you need a quick explanation...

With that said, I am not so sure I agree. even if bob is running A6s vs. R6s or NT-01s, the rears definitely do some work. Have you tried turning the prop valve in all the way and seen how much longer it takes you to brake? Its definitely considerable, I haven't tried it completely, but with my prop misadjusted I easily added 75 ft to a 115-45 braking zone. That's on street tires, so its probably 350-400 ft of braking normally.

Not saying weight transfer isn't a factor here. If we are talking identical suspension setups, gripper tires will transfer more weight forward...That would tell me would need stiffer front springs, do more braking in the rear, and figure out how to dissipate the added heat.

Can you describe what you did to gut the e-brake mechanism? I've considered it, but seems to me like you'd still have to adjust the piston to position the pad right off the rotor, even with the cables gone, no?

I don't have the link to pics where I am at now but if you remove the piston (crank out adjuster all the way and then air pressure) you'll see a threaded dohicky inside the rear of the piston. Thread in a bolt (non standard threads so you only get a few to engage) and clamp the bolt in the vise. Tap piston with plastic hammer and the inner portion of the piston will come out. That will disable the adjuster bolt and you now have a standard caliper that does not have to be adjusted before each session. It will also retract better so no drag as well.

Awesome, thank you.

Speed determines how long the weight will be transferred as opposed to the amount of transfer. This takes more of the overall brake load off the rear. Add sticky tires and the fronts do even more work. That's the reason why guys like Bob, Sav and myself have no issues with solid rear rotors.

Listing removed...

Nooooooo, my favourite car.

I have run through all possible permutations and it just doesn't work to buy it & ship here. BUT if it was even close, I would be in.

Even thought about rolling chassis.... :)

Love this car.

I broke the car out of mothballs earlier this year to sort through the various problems/upgrades. With the help of Son of the Hill, Trackspeed, 949 Racing and TFB I was able to get the car back to full fighting shape. It's been a great year! Last weekend I knocked off a 1:47 during testing at Sonoma and managed a 1:48.1 during the race Sunday. The car is capable of 1:41's as demonstrated by Dean and Tim. I just need to work my way up to that.

New Reverent MS3 Basic PNP, 1300cc Injector Dynamics and TrackSpeed custom tune. 297whp, dynojet
SadFab Delrin bushings in upper CA's, ICS Sphericals in Lower CA's and upper rear knuckes.
1000/550 Springs, 32mm RB hollow front and 15mm Solid Rear. (still tweaking setup)
949 15x10 S80 Hoosiers
11.75 Stoptech V8R/Sport Rears/1" Master/Sport Booster.

The current spring/sway bar combo is not optimized. We arrived at the current configuration by mistake. I started with 850/500 springs, 27mm solid front and 14mm solid rear sway. It bottomed out bad so I then swapped in 1000 fronts and kept the 500 rears. I then mistakenly swapped in the 15mm rear bar. I wanted to pull it out but Tim (TFB) pushed back against it. In that configuration you really had to drive it on it's nose and diamond the corners. It still bottomed out the front at 4.5" ride heights. We bumped it two more turns higher (4 5/8"?) and that seemed to keep things pretty happy. With the newer ride height I swapped in 550's and re-aligned at 3.6 degrees front and 2.6 degrees back, 1/8" toe out front and 1/16 toe in rear, 5.5 degrees castor. I played with compression and rebound settings and feel pretty good about the current setup. Still plan to try the 1100 fronts and maybe 550/600 rears.
All in all I am thrilled to be driving again this year! I am very much a racing noob but have a fair amount of DE time in my previous car. Each and every race I get better and gain more confidence and time.

Awesome write up thank you.

We have an adjustable rear sway bar...we figure it is 14 - 16 mm and I find the 15 is about right. The 16 was good (and fast) but every so often I would lose the rear on turn in......might try it again one day as it made the car REALLY pointy (which I tend to like) but as has been said here before, likely too much.

You are about the same place as us with setup...we need to try a step up in springs from the 800/500 on the Xidas. Interested to see how you get on.

Also interested to see what differences our movign to 350 - 400 Whp (from 260) does to the handing and suspension requirements.

Still massively green over your wide body and fast back :)

This was the race last Sunday. Notice the poorly driven 2017 Porsche Cup Car in front of me? I lost my composure a bit in my attempts to get around him. I should have planned the pass much better and gotten around him sooner. All in all it was a fun race. Still lots more to learn though. This was only my 5th race. I plan to get some coaching from the various local talent in order to become more proficient in the craft.

Nice, I love Sonoma!
Very cool to see how little your shifter moves despite having way more power than most track Miatas :)

I am running Blackbird drop motor mounts with 95 durometer bushings. The vibration increase over the previous AWR's with 70 durometer was minimal. Certainly not what it was like with the solid delrins I once had. Here's the odd thing. Once I swapped in the reinforced PPF the vibration got better. I expected it to get worse. I am also running delrin in the diff mounts. The drivetrain feels nice and firm without being overly stiff IMHO. The PPF was made by one of our members Matt Crowder.

Nice.
Until the last event I was running our drop mounts with the standard 70A duro Competition bushings and Delrin diff mounts.
I have a couple sets of bushings to play with the next event, going to test 88A and 95A bushings on Creampuff.

What was the original intended benefit/requirement of the strengthened PPF?

do you have frame rails as well?

Damn, that's really cool. Too bad I just scrapped a PPF. :vash:

I was looking to tighten up the drivetrain in anyway I could. When I stepped on the PPF one day I was surprised how much is flexed. I imagine the original engineers built a degree of spring into the PPF to account for some degree of flex. I also believe it was being over burdened at the current HP levels. Without any science I figured what the hell and went for it. Who knows the thing may crack from lack of twist.

I don't have frame rails. It's not allowed in my class. The PPF brace acts like a third rail IMHO. Again who really knows. It was cheap and it looks cool.

Could this be a ST2 car or is there a component I'm missing that puts it into STU? If it can, I think it could be really competitive, at least in TT2.

Tim knocking out a 1:41.5 during testing at Sonoma on 8-28-17. Start video at 3:45 for the money lap.
This was the second testing session of the day. We continued to tweak the setup further but never bested the lap time due to traffic and hot weather.

I want to make sure I am looking at the pictures correctly. You basically cut the edges off one PPF, then welded it directly onto another one? I have a few PPF's laying around. I almost want to give this a try.

Yes....Be aware you need a jig to keep from warping during welding. Also keep the donor real thin or you'll never get it installed. Mine was a tight squeeze. Does not take much to create a boxed effect.

With regards to this mod. I would not do this with softer engine or diff mounts. Those will need the deflection offered by factory PPF. IMHO the PPF acts like a vibration damper. Think of how a washer machine settles down when you rest your hand on it. I feel like the PPF does the same for the engine. The frequency in which the new one vibrates is different than the stock one. That was evident when I swapped em and noticed less vibration. Think of it as a torsional spring. I also believe the benefits go beyond the drive train. Since the entire drive line connects at the 4 outer corners and I now have strengthened the twisting motion front to rear that has to have some effect on chassis rigidity. Again who knows. Total key board engineering on my behalf.

Looks like your youtube link is from mobile, so it's not showing correctly. I was really curious about that lap in your car, so I did some light youtube stalking....



Attachment 237058

Thanks Flyer.....I fixed both video links.

Car is faaaaast

How are the brakes?

Stoptech V8r brakes are great! Need to change rear compound to something with less bite. Got some XR4's on the way.

With the 1" master and sport booster they are still a bit touchy for good heel toe blipping. Ideally I would convert to dual manual masters but that's not in the cards right now. As silly as it sounds I am gonna try adding a couple of big springs to give more pedal pressure. Pretty primal but I bet it will help.

I have no issue with standard '89' 1600 master cylinder and the 11.75" fronts with Goodwin (old) v3 rear (same size as sport I believe)..Carbotech/G-lok pads.

In fact I am scared to make any changes because they are that perfect..... but then I like a 15 and 16 mm rear sway bar too....must just be me.

Both my front and rear calipers have larger piston volumes than what you're running. It's not a great comparison.

I am serious about rigging up some springs to add pedal pressure. Kinda getto but should help with the problem till I can give it more attention.

Moving onto important things....Working on gear ratios for the new sequential. Plan to pull the trigger this week.

7.3.2.a.1, right? Greg confirmed? I have a set for Rover, pulled them for PTE years ago but was considering adding them back mostly for ballast.

Yup that's the one. I even asked Greg for an exception so I can repair my caved in ones. I also explained they were nothing more than floor supports. He was not having any of it. Said they would assess points for the "mod" if I altered them from the originals.

I can forward you the email exchange if you like.

Sorry late reply....somehow missed your post.

It's classed as SU just to make things easier as we shake out the car. I crunched the numbers and it will fit in ST2 pretty easy with some tweaks. That class is not that great in my region though. ST3-ST4 is where you want to be for good racing. ST3 looks very doable. ST4 will be tough with the non OEM roofline and pending sequential.

I need to optimize the saline interface over the next few events. That's really what's holding things back at the moment. The extra power and grip helps overcome some of that to make racing more exciting.

The time has come to part with my Miata. It's been a long fun road ending with much less usage than I expected. When I started building the ultimate track Miata I was driving 10+ times a year. Lately it's once or twice, I just don't see that changing in the future. The car is soooooo well sorted! It just needs to be driven more!
Most of the build history can be found here in this thread. $25k Tom 415-515-9018

Quick refresher:
300WHP 1950lbs Dry Weight
Autokonextion Widebody kit
Autokonextion Carbon fiber fastback roof,
Carbon Fiber hood Hood
TC Design Chrome Moly Cage,
Low hours Rebello Engine, Ported head, SUB, Custom Cams, Supertech Heavy Double Valve Springs,Supertech pistons with Forged rods, Boundry pump (full)Skunk 2 intake. Rotrex C30-74 Super Charger. True 300WHP (E85)
MS Labs MS3 BasicID1300 CC stainless injectors.
6 Speed Trans with TDR Shifter
AST Double Adjustable Shocks 1000/550 Springs,
Ron Davis Radiator with oil cooler.
Racing Beat 1.25" Hollow bar with custom supports
OS Gixen Diff 4:10 gears,
Aim Pista Dash
2 sets 15x10 wheels with 245/580/15 Tires
Stoptech STR42 with 11.75" rotor front
Miata Sport Rear with 10.90" rotors
1" 929 Master cylinder, NB Front Subframe, (improved geometry)
Spherical control arm bushings on lower arms and rear upper knuckles,
Delrin control arm bushings on upper arms.
Fuel Cell etc

Tim doing a 1:41.5 at Sonoma (Lap 3)

Can you remember how well stock brakes work on that car? Im building my Rotrex right now and wondering whether it is worth to start with stock brakes w race pads.

Btw, what a shame that you sell it. Congrats to the new owner.

GLWS Tom. As near as I can tell, that car is one of the few very well sorted and really fast Rotrex BP powered track cars on the planet. New owner will love it.

Great seller selling a proper race car

Thanks Guys!

This is an a amazing race car! I had the fortune of seeing it in person a few times. No expense was spared.

Tom is a good honest person. Is this still available?

Thanks Carlos!

The car car is still for sale. I am working on a proper for sale ad once I get some updated pics.

I posted it in the classified today. https://www.miataturbo.net/cars-sale...4/#post1523821

While taking photos I could not help but appreciate how well this body kit keeps air off of the tires.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...11a3d2f6d8.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...230841ebfe.jpg

The bumper extends the area of downforce from the splitter with all that flat surface area
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ca92dfc6c7.jpg


The integrated duck tail, Smooth tapered back window and extended wing mounts all combine for great rear downforce with reasonable drag.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7aad592fb6.jpg

I have said it before (maybe even in this thread) but I love this car.

It rips me that Autokonection (sp?) couldn't stay in business with this kit. I ordered it so many times and each time bailed feeling the time lines (or something) weren't right with his payment versus orders etc. Sadly for a friend of ours who paid and never recieved.

BUT youare so right, it is a lovely kit when fitted properly like yours.

Good thing CCP and Lightyear are now offering fastback options and are fulfilling orders.

That's only one piece of the puzzle that makes this car work.

TTT