Race Prep Miata race-only chat.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:
View Poll Results: What thermostat are the track guys running?
Factory 195 degree themostat
5
14.71%
Optional 180 degree thermostat
19
55.88%
No thermostat
4
11.76%
Replace coolant with liquid helium
6
17.65%
Voters: 34. You may not vote on this poll

Track thermostat?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-17-2012, 02:05 PM
  #21  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,179
Total Cats: 1,129
Default

What about the 160*? I don't see that option...

Really it just opens sooner rather than helping with cooling, but yeah, I'd definitely run a gutted thermostat over nothing.

My thought is if I do a cool off lap, it'll try to return to 160* over 180* or 195*, and last a while longer the next time I flog it. Then again with proper ducting, reroute, 2.5" radiator, and water wetter, I've gotten rid of my over heating issues for the time being.
curly is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 02:31 PM
  #22  
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,022
Total Cats: 6,589
Default

Originally Posted by pdexta
NA's actually had a 180 degree thermostat stock.
I don't have detailed specs for the 1.8 NAs, but the 1.6 thermostats were rated for initial opening on the main thermostat between 188-193°F, with full opening at 212°F.



I don't think the '94-'97 thermotats were any different- NAPA et al all list 190-195° as "OEM Equivalent"
Attached Thumbnails Track thermostat?-yvxoo.gif  
Joe Perez is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 03:00 PM
  #23  
Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
pdexta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 2,949
Total Cats: 182
Default

^ I swore I remember reading 180 for the NA's, but apparently not. Thank you for the correction.
pdexta is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 03:03 PM
  #24  
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
aaronc7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,116
Total Cats: 43
Default

I love the video
aaronc7 is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 04:41 PM
  #25  
Elite Member
 
bbundy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 2,478
Total Cats: 144
Default

Originally Posted by Savington
Theseus has a gutted thermostat because it doesn't have any other coolant lines (no heater core, no oil warmer, etc).

Rover has an M-Tuned reroute with the factory oil warmer lines capped, but it still uses a heater core which allows flow before the thermostat opens.
I have true cool oil cooler thermostat in my heater core line. It has a custom temp wax plug in it and is plummed so it shuts down the flow through the heater core if the temp in the line going back to the engine has not dropped below 180F.

Bob
bbundy is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 04:58 PM
  #26  
Elite Member
 
bbundy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 2,478
Total Cats: 144
Default

Originally Posted by curly
What about the 160*? I don't see that option...

Really it just opens sooner rather than helping with cooling, but yeah, I'd definitely run a gutted thermostat over nothing.

My thought is if I do a cool off lap, it'll try to return to 160* over 180* or 195*, and last a while longer the next time I flog it. Then again with proper ducting, reroute, 2.5" radiator, and water wetter, I've gotten rid of my over heating issues for the time being.
I think 160 is too low unless you only ever drive flat out. It likely won’t help any overtemp situation but it could make your car run too cool out of the design range for oil viscosity and piston to wall clearance etc. but that is only a theory guess on my part.

Bob
bbundy is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 05:30 PM
  #27  
Elite Member
iTrader: (41)
 
rharris19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Seabrook, TX
Posts: 2,417
Total Cats: 20
Default

So why is it that having a gutted thermostat is better than nothing? The hose it would go to right after the thermostat is the same size as the hole in the now gutted thermostat. I have just accepted it as common knowledge but does anyone actually have expirience using it both with no thermostat and a gutted unit?
rharris19 is offline  
Old 05-17-2012, 05:33 PM
  #28  
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Default

Originally Posted by rharris19
So why is it that having a gutted thermostat is better than nothing? The hose it would go to right after the thermostat is the same size as the hole in the now gutted thermostat. I have just accepted it as common knowledge but does anyone actually have expirience using it both with no thermostat and a gutted unit?
Dat restriction, son.

I'm going to kill my heater lines in the near future because they annoy me.
hustler is offline  
Old 05-18-2012, 11:23 AM
  #29  
Elite Member
 
bbundy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 2,478
Total Cats: 144
Default

Other than the potential it could fail in some way I can’t see a reason for not running a properly functioning thermostat even in a race car and even with all other lines blocked. Maybe somebody can enlighten me.

1) Thermostat allows the engine temp to come up to operating range quickly reducing the amount of time your getting cold piston slap wearing rings and cylinder walls at startup and warm up. Helping things to come to and stay in the proper temp range where blow-by is reduced as well.

2) Thermostat keeps the engine within a temp range better. Doesn’t allow it to drop like a rock when the pace car comes out or something.


3) I find it hard to believe peak cooling capacity is improved without it. A bit of restriction at the location of the thermostat will keep coolant pressure in the head and block higher than what the radiator cap sees which is a good thing to prevent micro boiling and loss of heat transfer from the engine to the coolant.


4) I’m pretty sure circulation can be cut to zero on these engines without issues even if you do block all other bypass routes. The water pump is not positive displacement it will churn around coolant just in the block and head just fine without being able to circulating flow to the radiator.

Bob
bbundy is offline  
Old 05-18-2012, 11:28 AM
  #30  
Elite Member
 
bbundy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 2,478
Total Cats: 144
Default

Originally Posted by rharris19
So why is it that having a gutted thermostat is better than nothing? The hose it would go to right after the thermostat is the same size as the hole in the now gutted thermostat. I have just accepted it as common knowledge but does anyone actually have expirience using it both with no thermostat and a gutted unit?
I think the logic is the proper restriction where the coolant leaves the head and block will keep the pressure in the block and head a few psi higher than the radiator cap sees. This is good for better margin in reducing micro boiling which is very detremental to heat transfer and can produce unsteady temperatures.

Bob
bbundy is offline  
Old 05-18-2012, 11:48 AM
  #31  
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Default

I really hope that car we're racing this weekend has a thermostat.
hustler is offline  
Old 05-23-2012, 10:55 AM
  #32  
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
 
sixshooter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,650
Total Cats: 3,011
Default

The oil needs to get up to operating temperature to burn off condensation and break down the formation of certain acids that can develop, iirc.
sixshooter is offline  
Old 05-23-2012, 11:47 AM
  #33  
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Default

Originally Posted by hustler
I really hope that car we're racing this weekend has a thermostat.
It turns out that it didn't really matter and I was wrong. It got a little cool overnight and I'd like to keep another 20-degrees in it, but I would not reach back there to put the t-stat in.
hustler is offline  
Old 05-24-2012, 03:32 PM
  #34  
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
blaen99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 3,611
Total Cats: 25
Default



Linked to from Joe's thermostat vid.

Mind...blown...
blaen99 is offline  
Old 05-25-2012, 03:23 AM
  #35  
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
mr_hyde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 798
Total Cats: 24
Default

I'm never going to get that 53 seconds back. My useful life is now shorter by almost a minute. Thanks...
mr_hyde is offline  
Old 05-25-2012, 10:09 AM
  #36  
Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
 
chpmnsws6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Springfield IL
Posts: 2,712
Total Cats: 25
Default

Originally Posted by bbundy
I think 160 is too low unless you only ever drive flat out. It likely won’t help any overtemp situation but it could make your car run too cool out of the design range for oil viscosity and piston to wall clearance etc. but that is only a theory guess on my part.

Bob
I have a 160 stat. With the first fan turning on at 190 and the second at 210, it sits at 185 or so on the highway and 190-195 in town.
chpmnsws6 is offline  
Old 05-25-2012, 10:33 AM
  #37  
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
k24madness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Rafael, CA
Posts: 1,421
Total Cats: 95
Default

M tuned reroute without thermostat. I would prefer to run one but have no idea where to put it.
k24madness is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Pist0n
Meet and Greet
4
10-01-2015 08:18 PM
mx592
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
1
10-01-2015 12:45 AM
Vtpalom1
Miata parts for sale/trade
4
09-28-2015 11:05 PM
Voltwings
Cars for sale/trade
0
09-27-2015 06:40 PM



Quick Reply: Track thermostat?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:08 AM.