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V8R Stoptech 11.75" BBK

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Old 03-25-2017, 04:44 PM
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They aren't stoptech rings on this kit. So buy whatever you want for the v8r hats. AP racing, wilwood, coleman. whatever.
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Old 03-25-2017, 09:49 PM
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When will these be on the website?
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Old 03-25-2017, 09:51 PM
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It's all about the gram.
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Old 03-26-2017, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
They aren't stoptech rings on this kit. So buy whatever you want for the v8r hats. AP racing, wilwood, coleman. whatever.
This ^

Same 11.75" rotor ring flexibility as other 11.75" kits. So you can run <$40 wilwood rings, baller AP rings at $134, etc. Even on cars that usually run the good rotors, we really like having the flexibility to be able to swap in the cheap rings for testing new pad compounds.
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Old 03-26-2017, 11:13 PM
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^^^
speaking of good rotors...

can you tell a difference?
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Old 03-27-2017, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by d k
^^^
speaking of good rotors...

can you tell a difference?
Yes, the wilwood blank econo rotors serve their purpose, but don't count on them for more than 14hrs of track life. That's less than my pads last
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Old 03-28-2017, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by d k
^^^
speaking of good rotors...

can you tell a difference?
You can't tell a difference from the driver's seat in a single braking zone, but the differences are big and still very tangible.

For a while I ran IR sensors on the rotors. Initial temp rise in the first few opening laps is similar for budget rotors vs. good stuff, with differences showing up in the rate of cooling while the brakes aren't in use. After a couple laps the differences become more pronounced. A few laps in, the good rotor's temperature begins to slow their trend upwards and the budget stuff is still rising at a fast rate with each braking zone and not cooling as effectively during each gap between braking zones. After several laps the good rotors level off where the graph of each lap looks more or less like a repeat of the one before. The cheap rotors (hopefully) reach a similar leveling off point eventually but when they do it's at a higher average temperature.

Ultimately the good rotors are running significantly cooler over the course of many laps than the budget stuff - and that directly translates to much longer life, less warping, less heat in the rest of the system so less likely to boil fluid, overheat pads, etc. therefore more consistency, etc. etc.
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Old 03-29-2017, 10:59 PM
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This is exactly the kind of information I am/was after.

Thanks for not being a ******* ******** like a lot of other people on this forum!

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Originally Posted by ThePass
You can't tell a difference from the driver's seat in a single braking zone, but the differences are big and still very tangible.
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Old 03-31-2017, 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by slammed200
Do you have a picture with pads installed? Curious what the rotor / pad coverage is.
Makes use of every bit of swept height available:



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Old 03-31-2017, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ThePass
Makes use of every bit of swept height available:



So much win in brakes and wheel stud fail. Any info on the upper ball joint?
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Old 03-31-2017, 09:04 AM
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Great to see more options out there to respond to the assortment of needs and preoccupations.

Having pad dimensions is really nice as I find most qualitative comparisons in pad size are done relative to a non-sport stock pad.

It would be really nice to also know the usable pad volume on each of these shapes to help everyone make the right trade-off for them.

As someone else asked, when will these StopTech kits, ST42 and STR42, be listed on websites for sale?
Attached Thumbnails V8R Stoptech 11.75&quot; BBK-stockmsm-sportfront.jpg   V8R Stoptech 11.75&quot; BBK-stoptech_st42_v8r.jpg   V8R Stoptech 11.75&quot; BBK-wilwoodsuperlite-trackspeed.jpg  
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Old 03-31-2017, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 99mx5
So much win in brakes and wheel stud fail. Any info on the upper ball joint?
Not really. Those are good studs that came pre-installed in the fresh Centric hubs. I don't run spacers and thus have plenty of thread engagement with the 949Racing lugs. No need to change it. With as much as I've cut the car apart and rebuilt it, this may sound like a contradiction, but I am still a proponent of not f*cking with something if there isn't a good reason to.

The upper ball joint is V8R's rebuildable unit. Just installed so will be testing it soon.
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Old 03-31-2017, 01:39 PM
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That a nice swept height, thanks for the pictures. It might not hurt still to get a custom pad cut to get more pad material on the inner radius of the rotor. Wendy at Porterfield has been awesome to work with on projects like that, and not expensive either.

Interesting too how low the brake line connects, no issues with clearance I assume, but just something to note. The calipers are not universal left/right either it looks like.
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Old 03-31-2017, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by slammed200
That a nice swept height, thanks for the pictures. It might not hurt still to get a custom pad cut to get more pad material on the inner radius of the rotor. Wendy at Porterfield has been awesome to work with on projects like that, and not expensive either.

Interesting too how low the brake line connects, no issues with clearance I assume, but just something to note. The calipers are not universal left/right either it looks like.
Consider that the caliper uses abutment plates to locate the bottom corners of the pads, so you can't change the lower pad shape in the way you're envisioning.

The calipers are staggered piston sizes so definitely left/right specific.
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Old 04-03-2017, 08:51 PM
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Basic info and pricing uploaded.
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Old 04-05-2017, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ThePass
Not really. Those are good studs that came pre-installed in the fresh Centric hubs. I don't run spacers and thus have plenty of thread engagement with the 949Racing lugs. No need to change it. With as much as I've cut the car apart and rebuilt it, this may sound like a contradiction, but I am still a proponent of not f*cking with something if there isn't a good reason to.

The upper ball joint is V8R's rebuildable unit. Just installed so will be testing it soon.
Fair enough. I thought the consensus was to replace the studs for added insurance on track-driven cars. Looking forward to seeing results on the ball joints.
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Old 04-06-2017, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ThePass
For a while I ran IR sensors on the rotors.
Details on IR sensors? Have been kind of looking into the best way to do this; it seems like most of the available IR sensors don't want to deal with brake rotor temperatures or maybe I've been looking in the wrong places.
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Old 04-06-2017, 12:08 PM
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It was a prototype kit put together by member Cyotani on these forums. Stand-alone data logging system that wrote to a SD card with four IR sensors in 3D printed cases. Mounted the sensors to the brake cooling ducts with a hole drilled in the duct for the sensor eye to point at the inner facing rotor surface. A little buggy since it was a proto but got some great data with it. There are production kits out there, they're just $$$
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Old 04-06-2017, 12:15 PM
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I am looking at kitbashing together something almost identical so was literally looking for what sensors were in the cases. Is there a thread (nevermind think I found it, I'll just dig that up from the dead)
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Old 04-06-2017, 05:29 PM
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When I was in college, our FSAE team had a thermal imaging camera laying around that could log, so we taped it inside the nose of the car and did an autocross run. You don't end up with raw data as you would with a thermocouple, but it's another way to visualize it if the equipment is handy. If IB cooperates, you should see a couple autocross runs. This was done in 2009, so it looks like it was taken with the original TI calculator. Interesting bits start at 1:00.


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