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I guess I'm going for this now... I had originally hoped to do a K-swap, but ended up going for a supercharger. Fully anticipate getting some hate for that. My parts are pretty tame compared to most, and everything but the roll bar bought used or off my old car.
Current status, including parts awaiting install
2001 NB2 LS, 5spd/4.3FDR, No ABS, Sport bracing and brakes.
MP62 Hotside, TDR intercooler, MS3 w/ E85 sensor and CAN wideband
NA6 interior swap, Momo Start seat made super comfy
Blackbird Fabworx Single diagonal roll bar
FM frame rails
Mazdaspeed Bilsteins, FM springs. Probably 6 different ARBs to experiment with. Bauer ELBJs for das camber. Depowered steering w/ idler pulley
15x7.5 street wheels, 15x9 track steamrollers
Morimoto HIDs in stock NB2 low beam
For a money no object build?
K-series engine: K24 block, K20 head and crankshaft. Great rod ratio, lots of revs.
TVS900 supercharger, Air to Water intercooler in a custom manifold.
6 speed, 3.63 FDR
Revalved Bilsteins and stiffer springs
ABS
Lotus Elise seats
A roll bar that lets 3-point belts work, or, different mounting arrangement for the 3 point belts. 6 point harness for track work.
Drop spindles
TSE brake kit
Twin Bixenon projector headlights. 3000k yellows and 3800k normal beams.
Or, just buy a faster car to begin with. I've always loved C4 Corvettes, and the new BRZ and ND Miata are just gorgeous.
Last edited by OptionXIII; 04-17-2018 at 11:51 AM.
Maybe I don’t understand what a “pro street” car is. I think my current car is sort of in this direction, mainly a fun street car that does HPDE. I agree with most of the stuff above, but big power/tall gears doesn’t do much for me. Same with big wheels/tires, which you need for big power. Heavy stuff that crashes around on bumpy roads, makes steering heavy, tramlines on the highway, etc.
If the only goal for the car is fun, sign me up for NA chassis, a fast spooling 220ish, 3.9 or 4.1 gears, 15x8 with 205 tires. Maybe even 195’s on 15x7. A/C is a must. Canvas soft top. With that car I can hoon around like a teenager without getting speeding tickets or killing someone.
I’m probably not very good at this game based on the other posts.
Had 3.63s for a while, testing 3.308s now. Not quite ready for prime time but the ratio is so sweet. For a 300whp street car, they are perfect. Working with the MFG to improve them now.
This has always been the goal for my car... but I’ve stepped over the line into what many wouldn’t want on the street. here’s what I’d want for a killer. Street NA
-moss low pro lights
-leather seats
-manual steering
-VVT engine / ms3, intake, RB header and exhaust
- A/C
- 1.6 dash
- nice stereo with good components in doors
- no rollbar
- lightweight 15x7s with sticky rubber.. bonus points for something rare/authentic... but Must be light!
- comfy suspension with moderate drop... I like FM springs and Illuminas, but idk the illuminas are available anymore.
Mine would be an ND actually. Touring version
Wrapped orange
DGM carbon-ish hard top
BBFW roll bar
BBR turbo kit
Auto trans
Xida ACE
17x9 6UL Tungsten
245/40/17 RS4
GWR 11.75 front BBK
FM rear LBK
Giacomo's 50mm steering wheel spacer
Replace OEM speakers with Focal drivers.
Small sub box in trunk with Q/R harness
If an NB2 Inside
A/C
OMP HTE-R 400 seats
Momo 78, 350mm steering wheel
No stereo
Outside
Wrapped pearl orange
Touge Run GV style front lip
Carbon Miata trunk spoiler, paint matched
Underneath
1.9L with all the forged bits
CNC +2 head
stock cams
Square top manifold
TSE EFR 6758
Haltech 2500 ECU
A-T DBW 65mm throttle body
LSX coils/ proto SPM bracketry
Quaife QBE60G helical box
Spension
Xida ACE 550/350
54103 front bar
stock rear bar
ES control arm bushings
3.6 OS Giken, SPM tune
RB midpipe & Muffler
15x10 Berylium 6UL
245/40/15 RS4
SPM proto 11.75x1 radial BBK
ABS
Unpopular opinion: For street/DD things, NC or FRS/BRZ will both be better options at same price end game as NB.
If i had gotten my NB even 6 months later, i would have not gotten it, and gotten an NC/FRS/BRZ instead.
Not mad. Just a small bit of "dammit!"
Going to second the unpopular opinion, 17+ BRZ/86. Ideally a Performance Pack with Brembos then you only add an oil cooler, RaceComp Tarmac Springs, header, tune and you're done. I'd even re-use the included 17x7.5 and just put a stickier 215/45/17 tire on it. I bought one in January and the Miata hasn't gotten much love since.
Last edited by Lincoln Logs; 04-18-2018 at 06:44 PM.
Not for good but for now the 86 is my focus. Currently my wife uses the Miata for HPDE and once I have a proper garage space I have a long term plan for turning it into the car it can be without compromise.
I haven't driven the newer ones, but I sold my 2013 BRZ to buy and turbo my NB2, and have zero regrets. They look and handle great, but the lack of torque was too annoying for me.
Happy to give you another ride in my car, seems bone stock until you stomp the throttle, but you know that already. Super comfortable with the ability to go around all the snobs in our neighborhood. Perfect.
@sonofthehill, I’ll take you up on that! No knock on your car but I would be looking to build something a bit more sporty. You on the other hand have the ultimate sleeper. Looks damn near stock till you stomp on it. I was mighty impressed durning our last outing. I bet it’s even stronger now!
Marin needs more hot rod Miata’s!
Last edited by k24madness; 04-25-2018 at 10:38 AM.
There's a thread on here about then. i ordered during the last run and the order was cancelled when the machining was confirmed to be subpar. To the manufacturer's credit they seemed receptive. I'll be patient until they've been confirmed good before ordering again.
I've been trying to figure this out for over a decade and I think I am close to having it figured out...
300 whp or so. Going significantly above this is just an expensive danger zone. If I had the money to do this in a Miata, I'd have the money to do it more comfortably and reliably in a used z06.
High ride height Xidas, FM front bar, stock rear.
Prob 15x10 w/rs4s for baller status, tho anything 205 width and above is probably fine on the streets to be honest. Lack of traction will only help with drivetrain reliability.
Minimal aero, just smoothing and ducting, nothing to reduce ground clearance. On the street, ground clearance is worth it's weight in gold.
Working AC
Everything in reliable condition
6 speed with a 3.6 or five speed with a 4.1 and swap them out more often.
If you show up Wednesday before elimination starts, I will be happy to take you down the 1/4 mile. Otherwise, just send me a text, I am around all weekend, possibly it will be nice weather for swimming too.
There's a thread on here about then. i ordered during the last run and the order was cancelled when the machining was confirmed to be subpar. To the manufacturer's credit they seemed receptive. I'll be patient until they've been confirmed good before ordering again.
Where's that thread? How long ago did this all happen?
3.3 with a 6 speed sounds dreamy after I ran it through the calculator. Especially for 600 bucks with decent quality. A slightly tall first gear but otherwise it's basically a five speed with an overdrive on the end.
it's still just a dream. way too many trials and failures so far to start planning.
Andrew is smart enough to have learned his lesson and isn't announcing anything until it's properly tested and a real thing.
04-17-2018, 11:41 AM
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