Interesting from Summit 5 of the F-body studs are $13.82 and 4 Miata studs are $26.67. .509 knurl versus .507 probably close enough. 2.5" long instead of 2.75". why are they so much cheaper I wonder.

Volume... (or deeper pockets in the Miata camp :))
Different number of "splines" on the knurl so you have to persuade the F-body ones a bit more than the Miata specific ones during install.

FYI, Ive had better luck finding the ABS version of the hubs (they are the same hub, obviously). Since I have a non ABS car, I just cold chisel the ring off. Soup.

I dont think thats going to work out the way you think it will, but Id be interested in hearing your experience after the fact.

The current hubs were done the same way and I could tap them out with a woorden stick. So for me, it works. I can replace hubs without replacing the bearing. That means being able to replacing drive shafts in the pit lane.

I lied. I got a China Dorman hub. D'oh.

Current hub was done in the same way and came out
nicely with a wooden stick and a tap from a hammer.
Bearings need no replacing this time.

I just received my Rockauto order and got one of the Taiwan and one of the China rear hubs. After reading the posts here I decided to check the measurements around the entire hub. They are virtually the same except for the noted stud design difference between the 90-93 hub and the 94+ hub and the inside spline depth. The 94+ hub splines are cut deeper into the center of the hub vs the 90-93. Given the spline difference on the 94+ hub, that's the one I'm going to use. I contacted Rockauto and emailed them with pics and requested an RMA # and a shipping tag. Hopefully they will have the 94+ one in stock.

Let us know if they are able to get you a specific one. I am returning my Made in China Dorman to Amazon and need to figure out how to get a Made in Taiwan unit to match my other one.

For those of you with more expertise and/or any idea what to look for, is there a reason NOT to just run one of the China and one of the Taiwan hubs if you are swapping out the wheel studs?

Taiwan:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1370002394

China:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1370002394

Taiwan:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1370002394

China:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1370002394

Please disregard my last post. I was apparently having a mental block with regards to the differences in the two hubs.

Since I have 94+ ARP rear studs sitting in a box, I want to keep the Made in China hub and send back the Made in Taiwan hub.

When I look on eBay, all of the pictured hubs appear to be the Made in China version (no additional holes, black studs). Amazon's picture was the Made in Taiwan version (additional holes, silver studs). That leads me to believe that the China version may be a more recent one?

I pulled them through using a lug nut. Didn't seem like any excessive force was needed.

.002" is seriously nothing. Manufacturing tolerances on a knurled surface are more than.

So the F body studs are shorter or longer?

I think a 1/4" shorter.

Huge no-no, dude. You likely twisted the splines as you pulled/twisted the stud into the hole. The splines are what retains the stud in the hub, so you run the risk of the stud spinning and losing the lugnut.

Never, ever pull studs into the hubs with lug-nuts. Press them in using a hydraulic press.

The HF C clamp press also works for the cheapasses. ;)

That works too. Anything that presses straight in, vs. applying a twisting force, is fine.

I guess it's possible, but I've pulled them in with a lugnut and then taken them out again -- splines were all fine. If you lube up the threads with penetrating oil then it goes in with a lot less force required than is used to torque the lug nuts (like 40 ft-lbs).

--Ian

ARP explicitly prohibits it. It's your car, though :hustler:

Is this something you've seen happen or is it just a theory? Because a wheel stud that is properly torqued has a shit ton of clamp load (something like 5 tons) acting on a small flange... it's not spinning easily based on the math.

The risks I see in installing a stud using a lug nut are:
-Taking out the splines and ending up with a stud that spins during tightening/loosening.
-Ending up with a stud that isn't completely bottomed out. (This could become a huge problem when the stud gets pulled through further and clamp load is reduced severely)

Explain to me how you're going to properly torque it when it's spinning in the hub.

Obviously you can't. I read it as you saying it would loosen on the track after being properly torqued. If you didn't mean it that way, we're pretty much on the same page. :party:

To make myself clear, I'm not arguing that it's the proper way but sometimes other methods work in a pinch. If the hubs were off the car I would of used the 20 ton press (probably the most under-utilized tool in my garage).

Good luck stripping those splines with a lug nut and a wrench.

sweet, now I know someone near my soon to be new home who has a press... :)

Just FYI - I was able to get a human being on the phone and get them to put hands on the product to confirm. eBay item #181114194737 from Diversified Auto Parts in FL had some made in China (black '94+ wheel studs) Dorman 930-550s in stock.

Finally got time to do my hubs tonight and noticed something that could be a source of problems for people who have replaced rear wheel bearings and reused the original hub. I was talking to the old dude at the shop and fucked up on the first one and left the snap ring out, so I had to pull it back apart. I wanted to separate the hub and the inner race that came out so that I could fully reassemble the bearing before the final press. The only way I've ever seen that done is a little heat plus a chisel to get enough of a gap to get a puller in there. The chisel process left some nice little burrs:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373263530

That surface mates up to the bearing and is supposed to be flat. If someone weren't paying attention or didn't bother to file those burrs away (or were careless with the file and gouged the radiused section), you'd end up with some weird stresses in there when you tightened the axle nut. I could see it causing a failure with enough time.

Maybe common knowledge for the mechanic types, but if you're like me and do bearings once every 2-3 years, it's something to watch for.

Another data point... it seems that I got a bad taiwanese dorman replacement. It was not the one that I filed on in the picture above, but the one on the other side of the car. The first time I installed it was with a new Timken bearing and the assembly had play once I got it on the car with axle nut torqued. Felt like normal bad bearing play, so I assumed I got a bad bearing, pulled it back apart and put in another fresh bearing. Still had play. I stuck a magnetic base dial indicator on the control arm and tried to find exactly where the play was, just to be sure it wasn't a bushing/bolted joint. All signs pointed to the bearing/hub. Pulled everything back apart and put in another fresh bearing with my old OEM hub, and the play is gone. I've measured and compared the bad hub to the stocker that I removed and can't find anything wrong with it, but I have trouble believing that I got 2 bad timken bearings in a row. I think I'm just going to spend the extra on new OEM hubs from now on...

So general consensus is Timken 513152 up front and Dorman 930-550 in the rear?

Timken 513152
AutoZone: $72
Amazon: $103
RockAuto: $97

I find it interesting that my local AutoZone has RockAuto beat by $25 EACH for front hubs. Plus free shipping and a $20 gift card.

Dorman 930-550
AutoZone: $44
Amazon: $30
RockAuto: $22

Plus RA wants $8.75 to ship them, not to shabby. Are you guys still getting mismatched pairs of Dormans from RockAuto?

Autozone had some ridiculous deal on both the Timken front and the Timken rear bearing, beat Amazon and Rockauto. I lucked out on the Taiwan hubs from Rock, but I messed up the bearing on one of them, then couldn't get the hub out.

You can go to O'Reilly and you can check the box before you buy it. Rear Taiwan hub from O'Reilly was about $45; worked in a pinch.

RockAuto has the Timken 510003 rear bearing listed at $22 and AutoZone wants $40 for the same, so again its about 1/2 the price. Same shipper as the Dorman hub, so that's convenient. Now all I need the seal and the nut and I should be good to go.

Oh, and I need a press...

Yeah, but if you fuck up the install, you do have a local supplier.

I bought the rear bearings and hubs from Amazon (free 2 day, holla), the front hub assemblies from Autozone w/ a 20% coupon, and the rest of the small bits from Mazdaspeed or Rosenthal (caps, axle nuts, etc).

NOTE NOTE NOTE: the axle nuts provided are too big, so just buy them from Mazda.

Good note. I'll just order them from Rosenthal when I get my LE/R tie rod ends. :cool:

Has anyone had the 1994+ ARP rear studs (100-7720) not fit in a Dorman China hub?

I didn't put much effort into measuring them so they may be off a thousandth or 3
Dorman knurl diameter: .565
ARP Knurl diameter: .581

I've heard that as well. Apparently the Taiwanese hubs have the OEM knurl diameter.

Looks like Evo studs should work in those, at least on paper. ARP # 100-7717

Yes, I had this issue, but on eBay hubs. Had to ream out the hubs, and used front studs instead of rears.

I've ordered two of the same part number rear Dorman hubs. and one had 94+ stud diameter holes and the other had the early knurl diameter same as all fronts. one said China the other said Tiwan but I cant remember which.

The knurl diameter on the front studs is 0.507. I thought I may have gotten the China/Taiwan->ARP stud mapping wrong, but these are a completely different 3rd size. I don't see anything notable about the hubs that could be used figure out which hub you'll need before pressing out a stud.

Evo studs work. So yeah, measure your stud knurl if you get China hubs.

Are you guys measuring the knurl diameter on the dorman studs or the size of the hole?

If I understand correctly, if the hole in the hub is .565", than it is only .016" smaller than the ARP knurl. That sounds right for press fitting something that's knurled.

Im measuring the diameter of the stud knurl. So the ARP stud is too big by .015

Is the stud you are measuring brand new or has it already been pressed in? The knurling on my dorman studs measured .563-.570 depending on where you measured but it was obviously crushed from being pressed in.

It was one that was pressed in. The ARP stud was not going in. A 12 ton press got it about 30% in with significant amounts of metal collecting in front of the stud.

A Les Schwab once pressed a too-big stud into one of my hubs. They must have had a more manly press than you do, because it went all the way in but deformed the hub outwards. That was the end of that track day.

--Ian

guys, that was my car... and a couple of things worth mentioning...

That was my 1st Spec miata. It had been a spec miata (100% original engine, trans and rear hubs when I bought it in 2007 after being a spec miata since early 2000 and over 38k miles including 2 10 hour enduro races before I ever saw it)

I had 3 left side crashes (1 per year) since owning it and although visually checked the hubs after the crashes, never saw any cracking and didn't think to change the rear hub and bearing (no play so why change what didn't appear broke?)

..so in summary, 3 left rear crashes, over 45k track miles with 89k on the odo probably overdue to change the left rear hub especially after the hits!

I did (just for piece of mind) change the right side hub after the fact so the 'new owner' shortly after this incident got all new hubs and bearings at all 4 corners!

...and Rockauto fail, again. I also got one Taiwanese and one Chinese hub. WTF.

Can anyone out there offer any input on the apparent durability of the Dorman hubs under extended track use (so far)?

@1:40 mark

When was the last time you changed your rear hubs?
 

Wow! Just wow!

Whose rear hubs? OEM, old V8R, or new 0.500" V8R?

OEM/new. he's guessing around 30 hours. 400whp/2700lb/NT01's.


Past month I changed out both rears. Halfway through a track day drivers side had developed a hellacious howl. Shop said the hub had cracked 3/4 around the flange and it fell apart during disassembly. Unknown mileage OEM hubs, I put on 60-70 additional hours on them. 200whp/2350lb/all on 200TW rubber except 6X20 min. W2W on SM6's.

Whi makes the best hubs out there?

Which ones are more prone to fail - front or rear?

D

Wow.

I just ran LRP last week and started getting a high speed vibration that felt worse than just picking up some marbles on the tires. I'll be checking driveshaft, rear end, axles AND HUBS before driving it again. Best case its warped rotors/pad transfer from me throwing new DTC-60's on rotors that are almost to minimum

My rear hubs are at about 185,000 miles.

Front hubs probably at 25,000 miles.

RIP Fooger :fael: :party:

BUUUMMMPPP!!!

Adding my name to the list.

Thank goodness, no video, but I do have pictures:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1456103838

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1456103838

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1456103838

Both sides had circumfurential cracks all the way around. On the passenger side, the cracking was only evident on the outside. But on the driver's side, cracks had gone all the way through. I honestly have no idea why this didn't launch a wheel -- but I'd rather be lucky . . . .

Yuk.

Scary stuff. This inspired me to put my blueprinted rear knuckles from my spares box onto my car.

Just thought I would add some info on my hubs for the database:

Original to the car Mazda OEM hubs.

92,000 miles on the chassis. 30,000 miles Auto-X/Track. This has been a dedicated Auto-X/HPDE/TT car for a number of years. No W2W. No crashes. Just track duty.

135 RWHP.

2400 pounds with fuel and driver.

949 BGK and R-Comps. Normal cornering G's around 1.2 to 1.3.

Also, in my case the cracks appeared first on the outside surface where it is easy to see once the brake disk is removed. The last time I did this was 1.5 years ago when I reverted back to OEM disks from a first gen Goodwin rear BBK. At that time, the hubs were wire brushed and no cracks were observed. From here on out, I'll be inspecting every time I change rear pads.

Wow. Good catch. Regular inspections are now on the must-do list.

My 2.0 build is a 180k mile chassis, so new rear hubs are now on the happens-before-first-track-day list.

I am gonna lump rear inspection in with fronts. Every 3 track days seems wise given the consequences.

FTFY.