Buy the ABS ones and push out the ring, same deal! Also, I recall back tracing oem hubs and cross referenced them to NTN at some point. Haven't seen failure on those up to date.

Cool story, I broke an OEM hub years ago. Suggesting that OEM hubs don't break is irresponsible.

I broke 2 OEM rears.

le sigh
 

There are four different shops working on front hubs, some of which are public and/or released already. No high strength direct replacement rears for 4x100 and OEM halfshafts in the works that I know of.
At least one of which remains private for now. Of the ones I have seen, I think there is still some work to do.

On one hand, it's great that the platform is popular enough and has a customer base willing to spend the needed dollars to embiggen the performance envelope. I'm adopting a wait and see on front hub designs.
OTOH, I dread having to throw my hat into the ring if the current crop does not bear fruit. Just looked up the etymology of that phrase, thanks Ted. Miixed metaphors FTW. Anyway, it would be a big, expensive project. But as of today, there is still no cost effective solution to resist the now common 1.3 on street legal tires and 1.7g from Hoosiers. Add to those loads, the exploding (too soon?) popularity of club level endurance racing and it's a crisis point for the platform's development.

When will your new hubs be shipping, and how much will they cost?

What happened to the mr2 spyder hub info I posted? Is there censorship going on that we should be aware of?

Mods broke MR-S hub discussion into a new thread.

MR-S hub discussion moved to: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...cussion-94420/

Tomorrow, I promise. $19 each.

$19 is kinda steep, will you be offering a group buy or sponsorship opportunity?

Ahhh - I was wondering. Thanks guys

Both. Played with the right coupon code, a few lucky customers will actually get paid to use our stuff. That's the way it should be right?

I'm holding out until they come with free Tecnas vouchers.

Nice to see you turning over a new leaf, Emilio. I'll be sure to be heartbroken if you don't meet these promises.

I like the partnerships you formed in offering SuperMiata products. Would it be possible to partner up with one of the more promising designs, offer input and testing in exchange for private labeling and exclusive rights to sell the product? If I were a designer/manufacturer I would value such a partnership.

We'll see.

Hubs, breaking under track use, escape liability as they are "not intended" for racing or track. Hubs built for the track lose that protection. I am sure that Emilio went down this road with the development of the 6UL Probably one of the reasons for any of the major groups not jumping on this needed component. Sufficient demand has always been there.

Lost another rear hub yesterday. The current hubs were installed in February 2016 and have ~150 track hours in a car that does 1.2-1.3Gs in the turns.

This time, it popped on track but I retained the wheel -- it's good to be lucky. Car isn't driveable though (engine torque spins the center of the hub, but not the wheel -- sounds awful).

Pictures to come.

Once a year, whether you think you need to or not.

We have been swapping them at 2-3 years or 75~100hrs. But yeah, once a year is practical and realistic. If this were aircraft, the part would be timed out much sooner. If it were a high level pro race team it would be swapped every race.

There are new options in the works but no ETA as yet.

Exactly my thoughts - There's only one component with infinite life on commercial aircraft (the landing gear) which is part of why I enjoy screwing around with cars - there's almost nothing that needs to be timed-out. If it works it works.

Hubs and ball joints definitely fall outside that territory. What items aside from those need to be replaced regularly and at how many hours? Should we have a sticky for things to be serviced every season?

I'm not sure if this is recent or already common knowledge, I didn't see it mentioned in this thread but for the people who buy OEM hubs, it seems that mazdacomp sells them preinstalled with the correct ARP studs(lists the ARP part number). The difference in price is a few bucks more than buying the studs seperately.

I didn't know that. Good info!

Well, I've been scared into it - new rear hubs and bearings go in next week, just before my road trip to MRLS.

Welp, these are backordered. Hoping to get new stuff in before my track day but it may not happen.

I managed to find a set from a guy in Vancouver that is selling his STS autocross Miata and buying an FRS (which, apparently, has a classing advantage). They look really nice:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5e8184c65e.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...196fe2ddb1.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9d785d408c.jpg

Being installed today. Also have a set of the Mazdaspeed blueprinted front hubs/bearings, which I'll keep as spares for when my current ones wear out.

Still no word on when I'm going to receive mine. :hatecat:

Order OE hubs and press your own studs in? That's what I'll be doing this week.

Latest Carnage
 

Latest carnage. The center spins freely within the hub. Somehow, the wheel did not depart the car. Coasted in.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3fec04f37a.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...39f0d804cd.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...10e0241acd.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...94ca5d5b62.jpg

Ouch! Makes me feel better about having spent the money to change mine out.

Here you go

Knurling helps prevent rotation, but it also lessons the precision needed vs a true press fit tremendously. Not sure reaming is even required if one is truly shooting for 0.005 - 0.008 interference range.

Edit: Moved post to https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...3/#post1465024

Can anyone find ARP pre-loaded rear hubs on the Mazda parts site? I'm hoping I'm just being incredibly dull, because the non Mazda options look pretty shit.

e: Plane ole regular stud rear hubs are $95 now.

SADfab group buy

Comp rears w/ ARPs are 0000-04-5HUB-RR. OEM rear hubs have always been in the $90ish range as long as I can remember (5 years or so). I normally buy normal ones and press my own ARPs, but 100-7720 ARPs were scarce this winter and Comp had 4x preloaded hubs in stock.

Are the 0000-04-5HUB-RR Mazda Motorsports rear hubs any beefier than stock rear hubs? Thicker flange, larger radii?

I was going to buy V8R rear hubs, until I ran across the Mazda Motorsports units.

MRS hub kit from Sadfab is probably the best option currently. They're thicker than OEM.

Pretty sure the Mazda Motorsports rear flanges are just OEM with ARP studs pre-installed

Miatahubs also has rear hubs now, which is what I have in my car. My early SadFab hubs chewed up their bearings in about 150 miles, I guess some sort of problem with the early versions. I'm guessing they've resolved it by now or you'd hear more about it.

V8R makes billet hubs for the cheaper for the better of the community. https://v8roadsters.com/product/v8r-...llet-rear-hub/

I have a set I haven't installed. They have a fancy CNC over at V8R.

Installed the V8R rear hubs last week, ran them at the track yesterday. So far so good, I was running the original Mazda hubs until now, no signs of failure but it seemed like good insurance. The black oxide coating is nice too.

Genuine Timkin hub?
 

I picked up a 513155 front hub for my 1990 NA Miata. Wondering if anyone can help me identify if it's genuine? It is not labelled Timkin anywhere on the part, and the bearing also has no markings. It came in the orange/black Timkin box from amazon, with a made in China label.
The thickness of the hub (where the disc brake and wheel sit against) is .2" or 7/32", which seems thin compared to photos of some others I have seen.
It also has the ABS ring on it, which I don't need. Any point in pulling it off?
Thanks for the help!

Amazon is notorious for selling off brand Chinese junk. That's probably what you have.

Vast majority of Timken, and most other brands of under car parts are made in China. Could be counterfeit, but probably not.

Our new heavy duty NA/NB hubs are made in China. Should have them around the end of the year.

Any thoughts on the hub thickness or removing the ABS ring?
My other option is a NAPA Proformer, part# BAP PBR930143.