I paid a shop to build my shortblock this time, and they drillled/tapped and put in pipe thread plugs I think... Actually not sure what they put in, but they plugged them since I asked them too.

 

If they had half a brain, they put short M10x1.25 bolts and crush washers in. Redrilling and tapping for pipe thread would be an awful idea on several levels.

 

How come? I don't know what they did, they told me, I just don't remember... I'll have to check. But what's wrong with redrilling/tapping and putting a pipe thread plug in? If there's enough "meet" in the block that it's not too thin, I don't see the problem.

 

Needlessly introducing metal shavings to the oiling system, charging you for a bunch of work that absolutely does not need to be done, replacing a fastener which seals on a crush washer (superior) to a fastener that seals on threads (inferior).

 

Well whenever I get the block out of a box I'll see what they did. I agree using the right bolt would be a better idea for the reasons you mentioned, but I'm 99% sure they drilled/tapped and used something else other than the metric bolt that would have screwed right in.

 

Hope you didn't pay for it.

 

Do you run oil squirters Sav? Or this this proprietary info for your builds?

 

+1

 

So I'm curious about how much of this is actually relevant for a rarely-tracked car. I'm in the "collecting parts" process of building an engine and reading this thread makes me want to delete the squirters. However, in reality, this engine won't see many track days at all, and will be mostly street driven. This is also why I'm considering keeping stock pistons vs forged ones.

Is there any benefit to keeping the squirters for street use? Reduced temps at cruise? better lubrication at low-load? Anything at all? Just say ****-'em and plug?

 

All of the engines I build retain the squirters. I've never encountered issues with excessive wear or oil consumption as a result.

 

I'm 100% with Bundy on this. There is no reason to use them and several reasons not to. If you are using Weisco pistons you 100% should not use them due to the before mentioned pistons oil control design issues.

 

Oil squirters removed. Will be updating once I have some on her.

 

1000 miles since squirters pulled. Oil is still topped off.

 

Interesting. You were eating 1qt every 1k & running supertechs IIRC?

 

Correct.
Full disclosure: I did find a hairline crack in my oil pan that was leaking ever so slightly. No drops in driveway or at work. No way it could have been 1qt every 1K miles.

 

No other changes, just pulling the squirters, and you've noticed no oil consumption afterwards?

Rad.

 

Well I'd like to put another few thousand on before I can judge if it is still using a little but very promising so far.

The thing I don't understand is; how many cars on this board have Supertech's, squirters and run Rotella? And how many of those people have oil comsumption problems?

Are they just accepting it as normal? Are they changing the oil after every track day and just not noticing? Are they just not saying anything? I've got to be missing something. What is so different about my engine?

 

For starters the immediate things that come to mind are ring gaps, ring tension (Wiesco vs ST rings), quality of the hone, PtW clearance...

I'm not saying yours is set up wrong I'm just saying its going to be different for everyones engines, to some degree.

 

How many track days do you do per oil change? When you say it's consuming 1 qt per thousand miles, is that 1000 track day miles, or 900 street miles + 100 track miles?

I'm running Supertechs, Wiseco rings, squirters, and Redline 10w40, no consumption issues. I don't do more than 1 track event per oil change, though.

--Ian

 

100% street. Tried changing driving habits and absolutely nothing changed. This was my last attempt before next overbore, new rings... Glad this seems to have worked.

What PtW clearance and ring gaps are you running? Your Pistons do have the drain back holes near the oil control ring right?