The guy at the place that swapped the bent wheels out wants to sell me a k24a2 for $300.

Crap....


Going in later today to get my rear wheel sorted. May end up having to find some space in my basement just in case.
Pig tail came in for new Map sensor, and I ordered a gates 27097 submersible fuel hose. Also thinking about just ordering an inline check valve, if none of this works and it happens to be the valve on the pump.

 

With the way your luck has been going that motor is blow to pieces.

 

so true......


I gotta stop watching KMiata's build thread here and posts on FB

 

Do you have a check valve on your feed line? If not that is most likely why your pressure is dropping after the system has primed. You need the check valve to hold the pressure in the system rather than it returning to the tank once primed.

 

The pump is supposed to have one. My fuel filter has one integrated but it's laying on it's side and might just be a ball and orifice type, so unless it was upright, might not be doing anything. The question is if the in pump valve is faulty because of the shady vendor from whom I had ordered.I guess as stated previously, I could just order a third check valve and hope that'd do the job despite the 5psi opening pressure.

To reiterate, all this happened after the fuel pump job. Not the fuel rail, injectors, or flex fuel stuff which where done all in different stages. So I'm tending to isolate it to the pump side as there are no leaks anywhere else externally. For the uninitiated, I have continuous AN lines from the pump hanger to the engine bay, so it shouldn't be anything in between (as I've already checked the hanger outlets and the inlets to the fuel filter in the bay.)

 

You got about a year to get the Kswap done, then my Miata Kswap Turbo setup should be done for you to bolt in.
​​​​​​​

 

Don't tempt me. I'm already looking at pricing a build at InlinePro if I dropped this thing off as a core. I just don't know anything about K series to select the right pistons. I'd have to find a clean NB shell. I don't think this NA can handle more work, and these headlight motors are aggravating enough with space constraints. (and I still need a car to drive)


Aidan, do you already have a K mule to work off of? I'm closely watching KMiata's build but still haven't been able to see how well the exhaust side works on a turbo K swap. There was a guy local here that had an s2000 motor with a turbo, but I never saw it in person.

I'm trying to familiarize myself with wiring, I really am so bad at this. I'm more nervous swapping harnesses and trying to make sure everything is pinned out properly for what needs to be merged and what needs to be scrapped.

 

Is InlinePro still around? I had a good friend with a supercharged S2k that took it there to get tuned. They did a really shitty job. Ended up at PTuning a bit later to have them do it correctly.

 

Not sure about the tuning, but I thought that was the go-to place in the country to build a honda motor. I'll be at PTuning next weekend and the following. I'll pick their brains.

 

2 week old o2 sensor died.

But I did finish tying in the 3 analog inputs from the DB37 connector to the ECU adapter. That way I won't have to revisit the DB37 which is getting haggered already. Just gotta wire in the external MAP sensor and fix the o2 sensor now. As well as whatever breaks tomorrow.....

 

Yay for external MAP sensors!

 

What did you end up going with?

I'm going to try to finish the wiring on an Aem 3.5 bar, then use the main board one for bars correction. Or just turning it off.


Public service announcement regarding possible fraud o2 sensors


Top sensor is used Bosch original part. Came with the ECF-1 unit that had to be sent back for warranty. Sensor worked fine and is identical to the one it replaced until it crapped out with an e8/reading lean all the time. It has LSU 4.9 etched right on it.

The replacement sensor was purchased through Amazon, seen on the bottom of the pic, and came shipped in a bubble wrap bag. The bag said made in China, the sensor has the correct part number but the laser etching is different than the genuine part. Also has notched corners on the wrench flange. It didn't work at all and was stuck on heating.

Ordered another through titan Motorsports who shipped it next day, original bosch packaging, looked similar to the markings on top sensor, works perfect. Also noted LSU 4.9 on the body.

 

I got one of those. Amazon helped me out and took the return. It was dead out of the box. If you buy from amazon make sure it is sold by Bosch.

Sold by bosch:
Fake:

 

I wired in the aem 3.5bar map sensor, went into the calibrate map/baro in TV and selected the Aem 3.5 option. It reads 109.2 kpa where the main board reads 98.3.

Do I need to adjust these to match somehow?


Here it is mounted, I opted to hang it up front so it can reference off the manifold in the shortest manner possible.





The egr port in the back of the manifold would have been fine, but it still has a longer path referencing from runner 4.

 

OK, so I had some errors because it looked like ADC11 Ext_MAP was already being used by MAF input, but because there's no MAF I disabled it. I hope I didn't **** it up.

Now it reads -29 KPa

!!

 

Silly me! I forgot to plug the Aux harness into the MS adapter. Seems to work fine, it's about 2.6kPa off though from the on board.

 

My internal map reads 98.4, while the AEM 3.5 bar reads 101kPa

So, to run barometric pressure correction, do I follow the little help bubble under the MAP calibration:

The barometerc correction to fuel at a total vacuum. For new installs set these two settings to zero and the barometric correction curve to 100% across the board. Imported settings from older code versions use a vacuum of 147, a rate of -47 and have the curve at zero.

and set the real time baro port to Mainboard?


Like this?

 

I went with the AEM 3.5 bar. Can't help you there ^ I am just running the AEM. I love your mount location! Where'd you get that bracket?

 

It's some generic 7/8" handlebar clamp for a light mount



Right now, baro correction isn't set to do anything, I may just turn it off, but happy that the car runs just fine on the AEM 3.5 dispite the .3 psi difference in reading.

 

So I got my sew on and with about $25 of material (same that I used for the door cards) I tried to make a new parcel shelf cover. For my first time, I think it came out OK. About 70%. Its hard measuring out the position and sewing the radius for the roll bar, that and I should have left a bit more material on the edges.

If it bothers me, I'll just spend another $25 and try again.

Also replaced the fuel pump and all pressure issues disappeared. It was the drain back valve on the outlet. Sending back to DW for warranty.