67 or 62?

 

Borrow implies return, do you mean sell? 6258 or 6758?

It's probably not something I'm going to screw with until at LEAST March of next year, but I have been on the lookout for another cover to mess with.

 

Backoff! I asked first! I need to take up space in my garage and never get used for anything!

 

Look at the timestamps bro.

Also, you need 62 i need 67. So it will work out.

My housing has a bigass elbow welded on it. Did not want to deal with that if i didnt have to.

Also want to play with modifying.

 

Neogenesis inherited my 6258 cover. I have an extra 6758 cover. Technically two since I can't use the side outlet for my intercooler setup (which is why I went forward facing 90°)

It was more shallow than welding an elbow to the outlet.

I may keep one of the covers simply if I need to sell the supercore.

 

will take 6758 if up for grabs. Mine has a giant elbow on it that is a pain in the ***.

 

Will message you

 

Buy cheap aluminum bends; cut as needed; mockup.
Tape the crap out of your mockup and bring the whole thing, compressor housing and all to the dude who welded your intercooler stuff up.
You could even ship it to me and I'll sell it on ebay, or I mean weld it for you and ship it back.
Obviously not the same thing, but I did more or less the same thing:

 

My turbo sits more forward than yours but definitely along the lines if what needs to be done. Your turbo has a flange up front ?

 

Its a weirdo journal bearing gt2860 with sr20 style housings... I stumbled into it, and its actually worked out pretty well.
Earlier I meant that the OD would be 1/2" smaller not 1" hehe

 

What the hell?


An entire stud is missing. Is there a nut behind there? Do I pass a bolt from under?

 

no nut, no bolt. make sure threads are not chewed up and replace with the proper (specific to this) stud. Many also put a drop of locktite on it

 

Ordered two new Frankenstein bolts, as well as a new large hard top seal, plus striker plate, plus mount pad.
Time to rebuild this hard top while its off. Luckily it's topless weather for the next week.

I'm just sad my hard top will be flopping around back there on the drive home, it didn't look like there where ANY threads in that hole, maybe just shadow play)

 

I would grab a set of hardware for the latches while you're at it. The bolts they use are pretty strange in the way that they fit into the latch. I hit 3 Ace Hardware's without luck before finally just buying a fresh set from Mazda.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I ordered the new bolts for the striker bit but come to find out, I have another problem . One of the welded nuts is missing. Could have been because the rubber pad on the bottom of the rear catch was degraded/missing so perhaps vibration and just moisture doing its number on the shallow welds

 

I'd have nightmares living in rust states

 

Agreed. I've never seen anything like that anywhere on my car. Seems like such a pain owning old cars in rust states. I'd probably end up just leasing cars lol.

 

The oring seemed tired on this bolt and it had been removed once before. I'm just wondering if it loosened enough for water to creep through and settle on that nut. When I get the new hardware, I'll spray primer down there and throw some grease on the frankenflange before tightening down. I wish POR 15 sold a spray.


Using an m8x1.25 bolt, I secured the old Frankenstein bolt and all of the sudden all my hardtop squeak and rattles went away. I thought it was the OG seals deteriorating. Huzzah.


...even though I bought new seals

 

Its not as good as por15 "por15", but its what i use for these sort of things.

 

hells yea!