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Your car is defiantly a personal favorite. Seeing it in person was great. I love the blue.
I'm telling you, Mariner Blue NB would be awesome!
Originally Posted by sixshooter
It was really good meeting you. I brought Miataturbo.net decals and forgot to give them out, lol.
Oh man! Next time or snail mail
Originally Posted by 18psi
Car looks business
email me or text me when you're ready to start logging the car for the tune revisions.
I tightened the wastegate and took a couple logs on the drive home. I can send them over to you with an update if the current tune. I messed with idle a bit so it wouldn't stall as bad. The iac was expected to do all the work and the throttle bypass was completely shut.
I had made a small
adjustment to the throttle stop such that it no longer hangs
at that 1% TPS on light lift. Issue/observation is that in
doing so, I had to compensate by closing up the bypass screw
completely. This resulted in ~1000-1100rpm idle with 0% idle
valve duty cycle (and unplugged) and maxed RPM
adjustment around 55%-60%.
It was a bit difficult with the fans
cycling all the time and the idle bouncing around +-
300rpm
I'm not
sure what to do about this throttle body. It seems as though
my options are stop it open and use less idle valve. Or let
it close and live with blipping the throttle to un-jam the
TPS reading.
To clarify: does your tb get "stuck" so that when you lift, the car stalls?
So you wound the bypass screw all the way in, and adjusted throttle stop such that TB never fully closes? Which would significantly reduce the efficiency/range of the idle air control valve.
Sound about right?
The way I see it, we have 2 options:
1) leave everything as is. do the iacv range test and "work with that", meaning your idle is never going to be much less than 1k (like it is now) but we will try to stabilize it so that it doesn't "hang" much higher either
2) try to re-adjust the throttle stop, idle screw, and iacv to get them all to play well together on throttle lift. Seems like you already tried this option and it didn't work?
also a bit perplexed about the boost fluctuation. it's back :(
seems that tightening the rod helped for like 1 or 2 pulls, and then the issue comes back
guess we'll tighten it more
notice how it only does it up top. never in the midrange
To clarify: does your tb get "stuck" so that when you lift, the car stalls?
So you wound the bypass screw all the way in, and adjusted throttle stop such that TB never fully closes? Which would significantly reduce the efficiency/range of the idle air control valve.
Sound about right?
The way I see it, we have 2 options:
1) leave everything as is. do the iacv range test and "work with that", meaning your idle is never going to be much less than 1k (like it is now) but we will try to stabilize it so that it doesn't "hang" much higher either
2) try to re-adjust the throttle stop, idle screw, and iacv to get them all to play well together on throttle lift. Seems like you already tried this option and it didn't work?
So the throttle itself, without adjusting the stop, wouldn't close on it's own completely unless there was momentum behind it closing. If I where lifting slowly and coasted, it would sit at 1% TPS and high idle. If I where to jab the throttle, it would close completely. I added a spring to help keep the throttle shut, but even that isn't helping out too much now. So just to try, I adjusted the stop to the point where it barely touched and adjusted the bypass screw in to help drop the high idle. After all is said and done, it idles at 1000 without any help of the bypass.
Trying to figure out the idle with this Skunk2 throttle has been an ongoing challenge. Working around it's deficiency getting "sticky" when closing or little adjustability thereafter, I'm not certain other than trying a heaver spring to keep the throttle shut. I want to replace the throttle stop screw at some point for longevity and easier adjustment than the oddball allen key I have to carry, will try to set things back and report in.
As of current idle valve test has a range between 3 and 55%, but I'm not sure if some of that fluctuation is just idle bouncing around few hundred rpm's and the fans kicking on and off.
Also, I don't know if I used advance at Idle before, but it's enabled when I got it back from PTuning. Should this be disabled during idle test?
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