Tire Advice
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From: Michigan
I havent checked but Ive driven the car on low tire pressure and literally bald tires and it feels better than now.
Good shops in miami are hard to find I mean **** is it really that ******* hard to do the job right the first time
Edit: I just checked all tires sit at 35psi. Now I have 195s in the front 205s in the back would that really make the car behave like this??
Good shops in miami are hard to find I mean **** is it really that ******* hard to do the job right the first timeEdit: I just checked all tires sit at 35psi. Now I have 195s in the front 205s in the back would that really make the car behave like this??
Last edited by buffon01; Nov 3, 2009 at 09:27 PM.
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Well 35 psi is 9 psi higher than manufacturer specs call for, so you might want to start there. Did you get an alignment? And why the hell are you running staggered?
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Last edited by levnubhin; Nov 3, 2009 at 10:37 PM.
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Ok so the Neogens came in. I got them mount, balanced and aligned and IT FEELS LIKE ****. The steering is horrible, any subtle move feels as if the back brakes lose. Although the tires do feel grippy on turns, driving on a straigh line is horrible. I just came off the highway the car shook like a maraca at 80ish MPH I use to do about 115 on the shitty bald set I used to have (I know it was unsafe, luckily I got away with it)
Conclusion, seriously WTF?? is that how new tires feel?? is there a brake in period?? or should I just go back to the shop and bitch??
Thanks
Conclusion, seriously WTF?? is that how new tires feel?? is there a brake in period?? or should I just go back to the shop and bitch??
Thanks
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How the hell is running staggered "not your fault"? Are all 4 tires brand new NeoGens? What alignment specs did they set you up with? What shocks are you running?
Yes, chaning tyres may sometimes require playing with dampening/sways. I know when I went from Kumho 712s to Dunlop FM901s my went all tail happy (my 96). I'd also suggest running them ~30psi.
Yes, chaning tyres may sometimes require playing with dampening/sways. I know when I went from Kumho 712s to Dunlop FM901s my went all tail happy (my 96). I'd also suggest running them ~30psi.
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Thread Starter
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From: Michigan
How the hell is running staggered "not your fault"? Are all 4 tires brand new NeoGens? What alignment specs did they set you up with? What shocks are you running?
Yes, chaning tyres may sometimes require playing with dampening/sways. I know when I went from Kumho 712s to Dunlop FM901s my went all tail happy (my 96). I'd also suggest running them ~30psi.
Yes, chaning tyres may sometimes require playing with dampening/sways. I know when I went from Kumho 712s to Dunlop FM901s my went all tail happy (my 96). I'd also suggest running them ~30psi.
I didnt ask for any specs. I just asked for alignment, I dont have the the receipt with me so I dont know what the specs are ...what shouldve I ask for??
I have stock suspension. Also Lev mentioned that at 35psi Im 9psi over specs and now you recommend~30psi, so what should I do ?? O_o
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run 28 psi and you will be fine. The alignment is kind of critical on how your car will handle man you should take a more hands on aproach when you deal with this stuff in the future. I like about 1 deg neg camber in the fron with 0 toe, and about 1.5 in the back with 0 toe its a very neutral setup.
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Sounds like your alignment is boned. Get it checked, and ask for a print out ... or better yet search m.net for alignment suggestions and take that with you.
Mixing tires (who the **** spells it tyres except people who speak olde english?) will result in mixed results. Your setup is far from ideal, but shouldn't be giving you that much trouble.
Mixing tires (who the **** spells it tyres except people who speak olde english?) will result in mixed results. Your setup is far from ideal, but shouldn't be giving you that much trouble.
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Thread Starter
Elite Member
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From: Michigan
Sounds like your alignment is boned. Get it checked, and ask for a print out ... or better yet search m.net for alignment suggestions and take that with you.
Mixing tires (who the **** spells it tyres except people who speak olde english?) will result in mixed results. Your setup is far from ideal, but shouldn't be giving you that much trouble.
Mixing tires (who the **** spells it tyres except people who speak olde english?) will result in mixed results. Your setup is far from ideal, but shouldn't be giving you that much trouble.
run 28 psi and you will be fine. The alignment is kind of critical on how your car will handle man you should take a more hands on aproach when you deal with this stuff in the future. I like about 1 deg neg camber in the fron with 0 toe, and about 1.5 in the back with 0 toe its a very neutral setup.
Thanks guys Ill search over at M.net and see what I find. I just got off the phone with the Service Manager, but I cant take the car over till Saturday
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Thread Starter
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From: Michigan
I have the bill here are the specs:
front L/R
Caster: 3.3/4.6
Camber: -0.1/0.3
Toe: 0.15/0.10
Rear L/R
Camber: -0.9/-1.2
Toe: 0.20/0.05
Secondary angles
SAI 12.4/11.7
Included angle: 12.3/12.0
Setback: -0.1"F 0"R
track width difference -0.2"
wheel base difference -0.1"
front L/R
Caster: 3.3/4.6
Camber: -0.1/0.3
Toe: 0.15/0.10
Rear L/R
Camber: -0.9/-1.2
Toe: 0.20/0.05
Secondary angles
SAI 12.4/11.7
Included angle: 12.3/12.0
Setback: -0.1"F 0"R
track width difference -0.2"
wheel base difference -0.1"
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Breaking In Your Tires
Lea esta página en español
Tires are comprised of many layers of rubber, steel and fabric. Due to these different components, your new tires require a break-in period to ensure that they deliver their normal ride quality and maximum performance. As tires are cured, a release lubricant is applied to prevent them from sticking in their mold. Some of the lubricant stays on the surface of your tires, reducing traction until it is worn away. Five hundred miles of easy acceleration, cornering and braking will allow the mold release lubricant to wear off, allowing the other tire components to begin working together. It is also important to note that your old tires probably had very little tread depth remaining when you felt it was time to replace them. As any autocrosser or racer who has tread rubber shaved off of his tires will tell you, low tread depth tires respond quicker."Don't be surprised if your new tires are a little slower to respond (even if you use the exact same tire as before). Their new, full depth brings with it a little more tread squirm until they wear down.
Lea esta página en español
Tires are comprised of many layers of rubber, steel and fabric. Due to these different components, your new tires require a break-in period to ensure that they deliver their normal ride quality and maximum performance. As tires are cured, a release lubricant is applied to prevent them from sticking in their mold. Some of the lubricant stays on the surface of your tires, reducing traction until it is worn away. Five hundred miles of easy acceleration, cornering and braking will allow the mold release lubricant to wear off, allowing the other tire components to begin working together. It is also important to note that your old tires probably had very little tread depth remaining when you felt it was time to replace them. As any autocrosser or racer who has tread rubber shaved off of his tires will tell you, low tread depth tires respond quicker."Don't be surprised if your new tires are a little slower to respond (even if you use the exact same tire as before). Their new, full depth brings with it a little more tread squirm until they wear down.
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Thread Starter
Elite Member
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Posts: 5,609
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From: Michigan
Thanks brain, I wonder if the Lea esta pagina en espanol is one of your racist jokes 
Nope, that is the "after"
I found this on m.net, what do you guys think??
Nope, that is the "after"
I found this on m.net, what do you guys think??
FM recommended these settings as a good set up, who am I to argue!
Front wheels:
Caster: 5.0 degrees
Camber: 1.0 degree negative (about 5 mm out at the bottom, per side)
Toe in: 1.6 mm (0.8 mm per side)
Rear wheels:
Camber: 1.5 degrees negative (about 8 mm out at the bottom, per side)
Toe in: 1.6 mm (0.8 mm per side)
Front wheels:
Caster: 5.0 degrees
Camber: 1.0 degree negative (about 5 mm out at the bottom, per side)
Toe in: 1.6 mm (0.8 mm per side)
Rear wheels:
Camber: 1.5 degrees negative (about 8 mm out at the bottom, per side)
Toe in: 1.6 mm (0.8 mm per side)
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