It keeps losing sync and cutting out and back in. Im thinking its the ignition switch but ive replaced it with a good one. It fixed it for a bit but when I went to drive it the next day the problem came back. Is it a ground? What do yall think it is? also it keeps going lean all the way to 20 afr on decel until like 1k rpms

 

Also it hates hot starts. If I stall I have to flick the key 3-5 times to get it started again. But when its cold it starts right up no problems.
Also sync loss reason is 2 - missing tooth at wrong time. Do i need to move the crank sensor closer to the trigger wheel?

 

What trigger wheel are you using? I’ve found with a 36-2 I need half the minimum sensor gap. I’ve also had issues when hot with a new stock 4 tooth wheel, although that was on a link.

every time you key on, MS injects your priming pulse. If you have to do it 3-5 times, it just means you need more hot start fueling, either with post start enrichment or priming pulse.

 

fm 36-2 also. my gap is at .7 mm im pretty sure. I changed my injector cranking pulse at hot from 100 to 160 now I think priming pulse is good but ill start changing that next. I have dw 1000 cc ev14 injectors.

 

Try .4mm and log again.

 

Ok I’ll do it in a bit. Swapping out my tps and idle valve. TPS jumping everywhere and idle valve does nothing under 42% lol I’ll go for a drive after

 

FYI I finally had a chance to look at your tune, and it's really shitty.

Your ignition is too advance, your afr targets are too lean, you're pulling too much fuel with MAT, your idle settings are set up for normal operation, but your valve is set to inverted, your idle valve hz is about 200 too high, your overboost is set to basically naturally aspirated levels, wue is basically only going to turn off once you're over heating, and you're not pulling any timing for air temp until it's at 200f. For starters.

And you're using 100% TPS accel, so if your TPS signal is going crazy, you fueling will be too, which I can see in the log practically following TPS.

I'd still make the change I suggested, but fix the TPS and sort out the tune a bit before driving it more. If you need more input, I can help, but look at the above settings and try to make some changes on your own first.

 

Yea I know my tune is trash I haven’t had the time to mess with it. It’s basically a base map

1 what part of the ignition is too advanced? Boost or whole thing? How much should I lower it by? This was my 1.6 ignition timing map and ill adjust my area

2 where do I find the mat

3 I’m running a nb valve and everyone is running 500hz I thought but I’ll lower it and see. If I put it at normal it shoots up or maybe I accidentally changed it I’ll check

4 over boost as at 195 kpa which is like 13 psi I thought

5 I messed with the wue on accident it was set at 175 originally I had to change it to get it to dump more fuel when I was trying to get it started to get home

6 I haven’t even touched the air temp stuff

i fixed my tps I think I’ll do some changes and send my tune again

 

Ok I tried .4mm and Im pretty sure its fixed. Thank you
I made some adjustments to the tune and I swapped my tps out and my icv. The one on the throttle body was a ebay one and wouldnt open until it was past 40%. I put a stock on one and it fixed it. Hot starts work now i think i added more priming pulse and cranking pulse.
Oh yea my compression ratio is somewhere around 10-10.5:1
Let me know if theres anything i can adjust

 

In the tune I looked at, over boost was set to 195 but with 85kpa hysteresis, so it was going to kick in at 110. If it wasn't, maybe the hysteresis setting doesn't work the way I think, but usually it's set to 10 or 20kpa, not 85. Over boost should be set at least 4psi above your normal boost. Couldn't tell you what that is since you never went WOT to redline in the latest log. Don't set it 1-2psi above normal, you'll end up hitting that extremely easily on a cold day. The MAT air density table should stay around 100% with higher temps, there are a few base maps that go as low as 74% at extremely high temps, yours looks like one. While yes, you need less fuel with hot air, typically when everything else is hot (injectors, fuel, engine, engine bay, etc), you end up still needing around 100% when all said and done.

I look at one or two past tunes and IAC hz was closer to 300, maybe give it a try.

Check out the attached tune for what I'd recommend for AFR targets, MAT retard, and MAT air density settings, and a bunch of other settings. Make sure your dead times and req fuel settings are correct, then start making your VE table match AFR targets with either manual tuning, VEAL, or MLV VEA.

 

Ok I’m not too sure what my injector dead time is supposed to be I get mixed opinions but most people say they have it at 1.250 for dw 1000cc ev14

ill get the tune adjusted more and get back to you.