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I am new to data logging long story short my tuning session ended early because of my VVT not working. I changed a few things and can somebody look at this data log and let me know if my VVT gear is engaging? Not sure of if I captured enough, let me know if I didn't and how to get more pertinent data.
No, it's not working. You want to look at the actual angle (VVT angle 1), the angle you're trying to get to (VVT target 1), and how hard the VVT solenoid is working to try and achieve that angle (VVT duty 1)
Look at the 3rd graph below. The white is your actual, green is target, so white should follow green very closely. Red is duty, so it's going to 100% to try and match target, which is barely moving, 3.9 degrees, when you're shooting for 40.
If I had to guess, you're low on oil pressure. Earlier in the log, your target was 40 degrees, and it read the same as below, 3.9 degrees, but suddenly at 2500rpm, it jumps up to 38 degrees, damn near target. There's a pin that locks the VVT from moving until a certain oil pressure, you may not be reaching that. Later in the log (pictured below) it stops jumping up, which could be from your oil warming up, which also reduces oil pressure. Somewhere there's a spec for oil pressure on a VVT, can't seem to find it right now. But if I recall correctly, it's 30psi at idle, 45psi by 2500rpm, or somewhere around there, both while hot.
No, it's not working. You want to look at the actual angle (VVT angle 1), the angle you're trying to get to (VVT target 1), and how hard the VVT solenoid is working to try and achieve that angle (VVT duty 1)
Look at the 3rd graph below. The white is your actual, green is target, so white should follow green very closely. Red is duty, so it's going to 100% to try and match target, which is barely moving, 3.9 degrees, when you're shooting for 40.
If I had to guess, you're low on oil pressure. Earlier in the log, your target was 40 degrees, and it read the same as below, 3.9 degrees, but suddenly at 2500rpm, it jumps up to 38 degrees, damn near target. There's a pin that locks the VVT from moving until a certain oil pressure, you may not be reaching that. Later in the log (pictured below) it stops jumping up, which could be from your oil warming up, which also reduces oil pressure. Somewhere there's a spec for oil pressure on a VVT, can't seem to find it right now. But if I recall correctly, it's 30psi at idle, 45psi by 2500rpm, or somewhere around there, both while hot.
Thanks, I have oil pressure, switched from an electronic to a mechanical pressure gauge. I installed a new OEM Mazda solenoid, all that is left of the VVT gear left to switch out, although the one I have on currently is brand new with 600 miles on it but out of warranty by a few days. I am tempted to take it out and open it up. I was hoping a few things I did would have worked but I guess not.
I think you might be referring to this for oil
pressure ranges.
No, it's not working. You want to look at the actual angle (VVT angle 1), the angle you're trying to get to (VVT target 1), and how hard the VVT solenoid is working to try and achieve that angle (VVT duty 1)
Look at the 3rd graph below. The white is your actual, green is target, so white should follow green very closely. Red is duty, so it's going to 100% to try and match target, which is barely moving, 3.9 degrees, when you're shooting for 40.
If I had to guess, you're low on oil pressure. Earlier in the log, your target was 40 degrees, and it read the same as below, 3.9 degrees, but suddenly at 2500rpm, it jumps up to 38 degrees, damn near target. There's a pin that locks the VVT from moving until a certain oil pressure, you may not be reaching that. Later in the log (pictured below) it stops jumping up, which could be from your oil warming up, which also reduces oil pressure. Somewhere there's a spec for oil pressure on a VVT, can't seem to find it right now. But if I recall correctly, it's 30psi at idle, 45psi by 2500rpm, or somewhere around there, both while hot.
Is there a way to activate the VVT solenoid via tuner studio? Maybe my VVT control is off on MS?
I definitely have oil pressure, hovers around 20-22PSI at idle and increases with high RPMs during driving. The oil pressure line to the gauge is on the oil feed tube that plumbs to the VVT.
Yeah that one says 43-56psi at 3000rpm, the one I remember seeing had an idle psi and 3000psi target. But as long as you're above 40psi at 3000rpm when hot, you should be ok.
You can test the solenoid by pulsing it in test mode with the engine off. You should hear it buzz. Keep in mind I've never seen a VVT solenoid or actuator go bad on one of these engines. Leak? Yes. But they've always worked. You can disassemble, clean, and rebuild with Miata Roadster's kit fairly easily.
Yeah that one says 43-56psi at 3000rpm, the one I remember seeing had an idle psi and 3000psi target. But as long as you're above 40psi at 3000rpm when hot, you should be ok.
You can test the solenoid by pulsing it in test mode with the engine off. You should hear it buzz. Keep in mind I've never seen a VVT solenoid or actuator go bad on one of these engines. Leak? Yes. But they've always worked. You can disassemble, clean, and rebuild with Miata Roadster's kit fairly easily.
thanks I will test it. I've already done the rebuild kit, I am tempted to open it up and see what condition the internals are in. For now I will test to see if the solenoid activating. I don't want to buy another VVT gear couple used ones on eBay right now but I'd get a new one if it came down to it.
To test VVT, you'll need to know what output to test. Open VVT settings (left window below), and look at the "output" setting below "CAM1". On this tune it's High Current Out 1.
Then open the Output Test Mode - I/O, click Enable Test Mode, and press "Pulsed" on the output you're trying to test. You can repeat this for boost control as well, by looking at Boost Control Settings and finding the output under "Boost Control Pin (Slow)".
Pulse each of these with key on, engine off. You should hear a buzzing/clicking sound, you can change the Pulse Frequency to hear a slightly different buzz/click, if you'd like.
After that it gets a bit more complicated, but once running, you can test VVT under VVT settings, there's a small test window, where you select Cam1 for your cam, and then vary the duty cycle while watching VVT angle. There's more to it, but that's the basics.
I gave in and bought a new VVT gear, I was curious and opened the old one up. 2 missing springs and the seals on the outer ring were backwards. The interior surfaces of the gear were all marred up. This was brand new also from Mazda. I was a few days past the 1 year warranty I will be calling Mazda tomorrow maybe they can do something "nice" $1400 VVT gears si not what I had on my bingo card. Answer is always no until you ask right?
As for the VVT settings I will need to figure that out, now the VVT angle moves with the RPMs which it did not before at operating temp. There is a thread on this somewhere I can reference and get a ball park working gear until it's finally tuned.
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VVT
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