joe morreale

I've been fighting tuning this car for the last month or so. I notice now that I have a vvt error message in tuner studio. Can anybody go over my tune to make sure that something in my tune isn't screwing with the vvt? Alternatively can anybody give me advise on what or where to check the vvt? Is it a matter of running a couple of Rotella oil changes? the last two have been with Mobil 1. Never mind my shitty idle, I'm working on it.

joe morreale

I got a "rebuild" kit for the vvt. Put a new screen and o rings in. Still have the vvt error. Something is working because, if I hit test, in tuner studio, the car stalls. I'm waiting on DIYauto's tech to see if they can find discrepancies on the tune, that's causing the error. In the meantime I see that for the past 6 years I've been using a vvt intake table that only goes to 100kpa. Can anyone show me there's that's scaled up to 200kpa or so? Is it necessary?

rjacobs

test your VVT solenoid with 12v. Should click.

Test your wiring from ECU for continuity.

I believe one of the VVT wires has a constant 5v or 12v I cant remember and the other is the ground.

I had VVT issues and it turned out the dumb ***(me) that cleaned everything installed the spring on the wrong side of the shuttle valve and nothing would actuate. Swap that around and bang, solenoid works again and vvt works again.

joe morreale

I tried to calibrate the vvt. Don't know if I was doing it right, but only got 10 degrees of angle at 100% duty. I took a multi meter to the selenoid and it read 11.2 ohms. From what I read they're supposed to be 6.9-7.2 ohms. I didn't apply voltage to check it, because it does react in test mode some. I'm guessing I need a new selenoid. I can get one cheap from rock auto for around $140. Being a cheap *** I also wonder if buying used oem is worth it. Any opinions?

Ted75zcar

iTrader: (2)

Idle pressure with hot oil may only get you 10 degrees. VVT needs to be tested at 30psi or greater.

joe morreale

The vvt test at 100% was done at approximately 3k rpm. It wouldn't run at idle during test. I didn't log test.

Ted75zcar

iTrader: (2)

You most likely have something wrong in your settings, or your mechanical timing is off. The difference between 10 degrees BTDC advance and 0 degrees is minimal from a VE perspective and the car should run at idle. My guess is that your relative angles are wrong, go through the procedure and set them properly.

Always log, not logging is just... always log.

rjacobs

I thought the VVT test in tuner studio was with the engine off and it was just to see if the VVT solenoid is functional.

If you were testing it while the engine was idling you were actuating the vvt solenoid 0-100% constantly...

I agree with Ted to go back through the entire VVT setup and range finding tutorial.

I think my 01 motor has like 30 degrees of actuation or something like that.

joe morreale

My multimeter was bad. With a good reader the solenoid read 7.1 ohms. So it's in spec. I looked at the various instructional posts on how to setup your vvt. In the end it just left me confused. If somebody can post a screenshot of their vvt setup page for version 3.1.08 tuner studio, I could at least have a functioning vvt system. I'm tired of looking at that vvt err message. I can try to optimize it from there. I never had to do this with my ms labs ms3. the vvt settings functioned. Once summer is over I plan on taking it to a tuner with a dyno. I'll let an expert dial it in then.

joe morreale

I tried calibrating, using stuff I read on these forums. Somehow I got the cam now fully advanced. I turned off the vvt error by turning off the button that reads it. I got the cam to advance when I was testing it. The motor stumbled. Anybody have any idea what I need to do next? Is there any possibility that valves might contact pistons, at high rpms, due to the cam being advanced? My redline is 7000.

joe morreale

Once again I'm stumped. So far this has been my progress. I have verified variable voltage going to the solenoid, dependent on rpm. The solenoid visibly moves the full length when 12 volts is applied. The solenoid has 7.2 ohms. I have replaced all the o rings in the valve cover. I have what I believe to be a usable vvt setup loaded. I don't get any cam angle change in tuner studio, as evidenced in the log from my previous post. Before I tear into a blind effort of putting a used actuator that I have on, is there any thing else for me to check? I want to get this car tuned in the next week or two and don't want any mechanical issues.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Have you verified oil pressure?

rjacobs

Google is your friend here.... both test modes are easy to find with a google search... start with the hardware pulse test then move on.

You can go into engine test mode and test that the ECU can pulse the VVT solenoid. Its under CAN-BUS/Test Modes...Output Test Mode I/O, then should be one for VVT... pulse it... If the ECU cant pulse the solenoid, it doesnt matter what giving it direct +12v does to it... if the ECU cant pulse it...start tracing wiring or outputs from your MS...


I believe before you do the below test you need to set your VVT angles in the actual tune to 0... to essentially "turn off" VVT.

If you then go into VVT test mode under VVT settings and set duty cycle to 0, you then read cam angle... thats min...

Rev to and hold at 3000 and set duty cycle to 100%... again read cam angle, thats max.

You can then go and start to up your duty cycle from 0-100 in 5% increments to get min and max duty cycle. As the engine stumbles you need to hold RPM's...

Its easier to do the testing with 2 people. One simply holding RPM and the other reading and changing stuff in tuner studio.

You need gauges setup for VVT duty cycle and absolute cam angle I believe are the 2, some will also setup for VVT target, but I think thats not necessary for the setup phase as all you need to see are the actual min and max duty cycle as well as the min and max angle.

Once you have those 4 numbers(min duty, max duty, min angle, max angle) you can then go into the vvt settings page and plug those numbers in as appropriate.


This website gives the same rundown
https://bartuneengineering.wordpress...l-setup-guide/

joe morreale

I haven't put a gauge on for oil pressure, but I crushed an o ring and it puked oil like crazy, if that counts. I can't find in can bus any vvt pulse output. I'm assuming that being pnp all the wiring is taken care of. I really don't know. I need to find out how to pulse that solenoid. At this point I don't get any angle changes when changing values. I tried calling DIY autotune support with no answer.

rjacobs

I pointed you EXACTLY where to go...

CAN-Bus/test modes menu, then the Output Test Mode I/O page. There is an option in there for VVT and its either "off, pulse, on"... pulse it... The solenoid should "rattle"...

rjacobs

Once you determine if the ECU can pulse the solenoid then go into the VVT settings page and turn on the test mode there and go through finding min and max duty cycle and angles...

Its really not that hard.

Maybe pay one of the online tuners from the facebook page like 20 bucks to do your VVT test and setup... its about a 3 minute process...

joe morreale

I don't want to be a pain in the ***, I don't want to cause any damage. In this pull down menu, the high current 1 selection would be my vvt output, I guess

. I just use the pre selected variables and test it from there?

rjacobs

no i dont think so. its technically a PWM output.

check I/O 2 and I/O 3 for VVT or you need to look at a diagram of how your MS is wired on to what output.

Mine is like the link I posted above and says "pp6-VVT"

joe morreale

I don't see anything labeled vvt. The reason I thought it was high current 1 was because of this menu. I feel like an idiot when **** like this happens. I am going to have the car tuned, but I want to try and resolve this vvt error first. Just in case it is a hardware issue.

rjacobs

If thats how your MS3 is setup as "high current out 1" then yea, pulse that one.

Set the hz lower than the 19.5 though.