When I first got my car tuned, I got it tuned without a wideband because I couldn't get the aem wideband to function. I have since rebuilt and broken in my engine and installed a spartan3 wideband, which as far as I can tell is working flawlessly. When I got my engine rebuilt, my tuner sent me base map (basically my original tune but with a few small changes to acount for the fresh engine, slightly higher compression, and more displacement) that he said should be perfectly safe for my setup as long as I'm gentle on the throttle. I plan on bringing it back to him to him to get dyno tuned again when I get a few more things done (new intake, exhaust, knock and flex fuel sensor), until then I'd like to refine the base map a bit more, so I can push the car harder without risk of it hurting itself.

My current setup for my 1995 is,
MS3PRO
Spartan3 Wideband
Fully stock fuel system
Stock airbox with FM randall intake and MAF delete
Skunk2 TB
Speedyefi COPS
ebay header
stock cat and catback
Freshly rebuilt engine (less than 2000 miles) with 84mm pistons with 9.5:1 CR but no headwork or anything else that should matter tuning wise other than the changes made by the pistons

I'm mostly concerned with the safety of the tune as I know my current setup is not going to make that much power regardless of how its tuned. I have attached my tune and a data log of me driving it, if I could get some input on where to start that would be super helpful.

 

At a glance I think it looks pretty decent to put around on. 93 octane I assume?

Your idle valve seems to be sitting too high though. Just curious, have you messed with the idle screw in the past? You're so far above the idle target that it's pulling 20 degrees of timing and you're idling at a negative advance. That would be my main concern at a glance. If you go into the Idle menu in TunerStudio and lower the closed loop initial value at high temps to ~30 I think you'd be able to idle at a reasonable advance.

Going to something like the following would probably be better, but even if you leave the top row all the same number, as long as you lower it a bit you should be in better shape.

 

I did mess with the bypass screw awhile ago while i was ******* with the car for getting it to try to pass emissions, I re-adjusted it to get it to idle with the pmw ide vlaue close to 34% at 950rpm, but with your changes. I'm in AZ so we get up to 91 octane gas, I'd kill to have 93 but sadly I don't have that an as an option. I also attached a log of it idling with your suggested changes.

 

I also don't have my ego control on yet, but this tune is made around a car with no wideband. What should I change so I can get my ecu to start using the data from wideband and have it be helping?

 

Idle ignition looks better now. Maybe a little retarded, but it's closer. It's kinda rich though.

EGO looks like it has reasonable settings, but the "Controller Authority" is set to +/- 0. That means the ECU can make a max of 0% change to the fuel. If you set it to 5, then the ECU can add or remove 5% to try and match the value in your AFR target table.

You can try the attached tune if you want. I pulled a little more from the PWM Idle base and pulled a bit of fuel at idle. I put the EGO Authority to 5%. Otherwise, if you just want to fiddle with EGO just go to Fuel->AFR/EGO Control and adjust the Controller authority. Keep in mind that the settings limit it to 1300+ RPM, so it won't do anything with idle AFRs.

 

I used your tune and did a quick drive with it, if I'm understand the info from the log correctly, it looks like its not using any ego correction, or am I just reading it wrong? Also seems to spike lean right when I get on the gas, but then quickly goes back to running rich, is that intended behavior and/or safe? log attached

 

No, you're correct, EGO still isn't kicking on. I think it's because the step size was set to 0.

The idle valve is still sitting open more than I'd expect as well. The tune should be calling for ~30 duty cycle but the log is showing closer to 33.

I wouldn't worry about the lean spike off idle unless the car is bogging/weird. I made the idle cells a uniform value to try to keep the idle smoother. I rebinned the fuel table here and added some fuel to the cells right outside of idle, so this should help. I think EGO will be kicking on now as well.

 

Just did another drive, if I'm reading the log correctly it looks like ego control is now working, and its adjusting the fueling. Looking at the last 2 logs, my AFR target and actual AFR seems to be following a lot closer now that EGO control is working. Idle duty did change a bit. Now that everything seems to be in order as far as I can tell, I'm going to start messing with my fueling to get it so it needs as little input from the wideband to hit my AFR targets, because looking at the log my AFR target error is all over the place, but he AFR's seem to be safe. Before I do that, I just want to get some input on if my AFR target and Ignition table are good for my setup and will be safe to tune towards.

 

I did pull a tiny bit out of the Ignition table to make it safer on 91. I thought the AFR targets and Ignition table looked reasonable given what you've said about your car (NA on 91 octane). The spark map could be smoothed out a little bit, but I think it seems alright.

The EGO is set to be pretty timid, so getting the fuel table dialed in is a good idea. You can play with the Controller Step Size and Authority in the EGO Control menu if you want to make it more aggressive.

Keep in mind I'm far from a professional, but I don't think you're going to blow your car up running these tables for the time being. Like anything though, I'd do research on it until you feel comfortable. Ultimately it's your car and engine.

 

Thanks for the help and the input, Ill do some more research tonight about the ignition table, kinda difficult to find an off the shelf timing table for my setup because 91 octane and 9.5:1 compression is pretty rare combo, could just throw some octane booster in it and not worry about it until I get my knock sensor properly setup. Ill mess around with the ego correction and fuel table tonight to get both to a point where they are happy.

 

IIRC 9.5:1 was the stock ratio on an NB1. Might be worth checking out some of the base tunes from the reputable shops, but I'm pretty sure I ran a good deal more timing than you on my engine before I rebuilt it. I did find a good deal of pitting in the pistons when I pulled it apart (still running when I pulled it), but I ran that timing map at many autocross events and a track day without an issue. We're stuck with 91 octane here as well.

I wouldn't bother with the octane booster unless you want to. Like you said, make knock detection your next priority and you won't have to worry about it. Just being able to view the knock waveforms in the datalog is good for peace of mind.

Are you on forged pistons? You said the engine was rebuilt but didn't mention exactly what was done to it?

 

When I rebuilt my engine, I did manley rods. supertech 84mm forged pistons with a 9.5:1 compression ratio, boundary oil pump, volvo springs. Everything else was stock, so oem cams, valves, lifters, no porting or polishing of the head either. As far as I understand, the only thing I did during the rebuild that matters tuning wise, is the changes made by the pistons. Because other than that, it's just a fresh BP05, with a few basic bolt ons and supporting mods. I have the full details in my build thread, but there isn't much more to my build than that, its pretty basic.

For the knock sensor, I already bought a bosch KS4-P, I'm just working on getting it mounted and then wired up. I don't plan on taking it to any events until I give it one more round of parts and then get it dyno tuned, just street driving for the purpose of breaking in new parts or diagnostics/testing... and when the weather is nice (a rarity in arizona) and I can't resist the urge to drive it.

 

Nice, solid recipe. Yeah, rods shouldn't make a difference as long as they're OEM spec. Like you said, pistons (diameter and compression ratio) are the only thing I see that would have an effect on the tune.

I have a similar (or the same) knock sensor mounted on my engine. I drilled the sensor out to fit the stock bolt (M10 I believe). Some people have made custom studs to step down and accommodate the Bosch sensors. Someone was selling those studs on here not too long ago, might be worth reaching out if that's the route you decide to go.

I sympathize on the driving part as well. If there isn't a reason that makes my Impreza an absolute necessity I'm grabbing the Miata keys.

 

I just checked your build thread and it looks like you have the exact same sensor (at least same style) as I do. I'm planning on drilling into one of the engine mount bolts and then tapping it for a stud. I'm planning on using an M6 to M8 stud, tapping the engine mount bolt for the M6 end of the stud and then putting the sensor on the M8 end. I just need to do some measurements first to see how long each end of the stud needs to be and then find one that gets as close as possible to those numbers. Once I get everything for that plan figured out and the implement it, I'll put all the info in my build thread so other people have a much easier time than i'm about to have.

 

There are some studs like this (Stud) that are readily available. Not sure if that helps at all, but figured it was worth putting in the mix.

I'll be interested to see what you end up doing. I want to run 2 knock sensors, one for the ECU and the other for my det-can gauge, but haven't figure out exactly how to run 2 sensors. The engine mount sensor was on the top of my list.