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Turbo Return Thread Oil Leak

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Old Aug 9, 2025 | 10:53 AM
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Default Turbo Return Thread Oil Leak

Hey guys!
So I just installed my Kraken turbo kit and everything is finally running fine car feels great, just gotta get a lower rated spring for my wastegate to better control spool up. However, I’m having a small oil leak issue from the threads in the oil pan. I drive and the car doesn’t leak oil at all, but once I shut it off after an hour or two the car will drip maybe a teaspoon of oil. Really not that big of a deal but a bit bothersome. Is there anything you guys would recommend to better seal the threads? I put the tap in at a bit of an angle so the threads are not perpendicular to the pan, but I figured it was NPT and the fitting doesn’t even screw in all the way. I’ve attached a photo, but if y'all have any pointers that would be great.


Old Aug 9, 2025 | 01:49 PM
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Used to be we all used JB weld, just drain your oil, spray a can of brake clean on the fitting and pan, inside and out, slab a bunch of JB on the fitting, and thread it in until tight. Don’t wipe any excess off. Let sit for 24 hours without touching it or adding oil.

I think the thought is you only have 2 threads in the pan, by the time you get teflon tape tight enough to help sealing, it’ll crack the pan, so most likely that fitting is currently “loose”

The true fix is removing the engine, pan, and having someone weld a nice thick bung to it.
Old Aug 9, 2025 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Salva
I put the tap in at a bit of an angle so the threads are not perpendicular to the pan, but I figured it was NPT and the fitting doesn’t even screw in all the way.
You'll be lucky if the fitting doesn't vibrate out while your driving after a while.
Old Aug 9, 2025 | 03:35 PM
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I may consider just taking it out, adding more thread sealant and tightening it down a little bit more. If that doesn’t work, I may try the JB Weld method as I don’t really need it to be a long-term solution.

Is there really a high probability of it vibrating out? The fitting is in there pretty tight and after the few drives that I’ve done with some pools at eight psi the fitting hasn’t changed tightness nor leaked and increasing amount of oil in each interval.
Old Aug 10, 2025 | 08:41 AM
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I hope that isn't teflon tape in that picture. Teflon tape anywhere in the oil system is a big no-no.
Old Aug 10, 2025 | 08:55 AM
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Not teflon tape, just regular PTFE Thread Sealant.
Old Aug 10, 2025 | 09:18 AM
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I think Curly gave you the best solution. A lot of people used the FM method, and did it correctly and have had no problems.

Your problem is the thread isn’t straight into the pan wall making the 2 threads even less nor 100% functional because of this. NPT & NPTF threads rely on 3-6 thread engagement to seal properly and then a proper assembly procedure. Can it vibrate out? Only time will tell so keep driving.

Old Aug 10, 2025 | 09:23 AM
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Right, do you think that using the FM method would be enough to negate the issue being caused by the threads being not perfectly straight? As I said I really only need it to last a year as I’m planning to do some bottom end work next year and will have the availability to weld a bung on the pan.
Old Aug 11, 2025 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Salva
Right, do you think that using the FM method would be enough to negate the issue being caused by the threads being not perfectly straight? As I said I really only need it to last a year as I’m planning to do some bottom end work next year and will have the availability to weld a bung on the pan.
Well, it’s either the FM method or take the pan off and have a bung welded on. Take your pick…
Old Aug 11, 2025 | 09:55 AM
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Fair enough, I JB welded the fitting last night so we’ll see how it goes later today.
Old Aug 11, 2025 | 10:44 AM
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PSA: Put a sticky note on the steering wheel... "ADD OIL" so you don't forget. Assuming you didn't just thrown JB Weld at the assembly...
Old Aug 11, 2025 | 10:51 AM
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Yeah definitely, I’ve got a timer set. I wouldn’t want to start it without oil… that’d be pretty bad.
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