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Hey guys!
So I just installed my Kraken turbo kit and everything is finally running fine car feels great, just gotta get a lower rated spring for my wastegate to better control spool up. However, I’m having a small oil leak issue from the threads in the oil pan. I drive and the car doesn’t leak oil at all, but once I shut it off after an hour or two the car will drip maybe a teaspoon of oil. Really not that big of a deal but a bit bothersome. Is there anything you guys would recommend to better seal the threads? I put the tap in at a bit of an angle so the threads are not perpendicular to the pan, but I figured it was NPT and the fitting doesn’t even screw in all the way. I’ve attached a photo, but if y'all have any pointers that would be great.
Used to be we all used JB weld, just drain your oil, spray a can of brake clean on the fitting and pan, inside and out, slab a bunch of JB on the fitting, and thread it in until tight. Don’t wipe any excess off. Let sit for 24 hours without touching it or adding oil.
I think the thought is you only have 2 threads in the pan, by the time you get teflon tape tight enough to help sealing, it’ll crack the pan, so most likely that fitting is currently “loose”
The true fix is removing the engine, pan, and having someone weld a nice thick bung to it.
I put the tap in at a bit of an angle so the threads are not perpendicular to the pan, but I figured it was NPT and the fitting doesn’t even screw in all the way.
You'll be lucky if the fitting doesn't vibrate out while your driving after a while.
I may consider just taking it out, adding more thread sealant and tightening it down a little bit more. If that doesn’t work, I may try the JB Weld method as I don’t really need it to be a long-term solution.
Is there really a high probability of it vibrating out? The fitting is in there pretty tight and after the few drives that I’ve done with some pools at eight psi the fitting hasn’t changed tightness nor leaked and increasing amount of oil in each interval.
I think Curly gave you the best solution. A lot of people used the FM method, and did it correctly and have had no problems.
Your problem is the thread isn’t straight into the pan wall making the 2 threads even less nor 100% functional because of this. NPT & NPTF threads rely on 3-6 thread engagement to seal properly and then a proper assembly procedure. Can it vibrate out? Only time will tell so keep driving.
Right, do you think that using the FM method would be enough to negate the issue being caused by the threads being not perfectly straight? As I said I really only need it to last a year as I’m planning to do some bottom end work next year and will have the availability to weld a bung on the pan.
Right, do you think that using the FM method would be enough to negate the issue being caused by the threads being not perfectly straight? As I said I really only need it to last a year as I’m planning to do some bottom end work next year and will have the availability to weld a bung on the pan.
Well, it’s either the FM method or take the pan off and have a bung welded on. Take your pick…