So, tge drivetrain I have is a nb1 with a 6 speed and an fm2 turbo running 15psi. According to previous owner, 240ho at the wheels. Supposedly

Figured out the clutch is smoked while swapping the drivetrain to the new shell.

It's got a flyin miata lightweight flywheel at least! That needs resurfacing.

Since this is a grm $2000 challenge build, and im pretty much out of budget, what are my cheap options that work? I have a brand new exedy stock clutch here i won in an auction for 40 bucks. I also have a full xtd stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel that came with a parts car so it's budget free due to the parts car already being in budget. But the stuff im finding on xtd makes me nervous, and the exedy is rated to 160ft-lb according to Google.

I want a reliable car. I want a safe car. I may not be able to get there in budget, but I want to know my options. Is there a mix and match budget option, or am I pretty much stuck at hand grenade or $450 clutch?

 

Just as a point of reference, I bought the super cheap 6 puck ebay clutch 18 years ago and it held my 260whp car without issue after many track days and street driving. Takes a bit of getting used to as it acted more like an on/off switch, but I never had reliability problems with it. Might have just been lucky, but no complaints here.

 

You can always turn down the boost, but I don't think that's the option you want to hear. How much do you have budgeted for you clutch currently?

 

Currently have $60 in the budget for the exedy stock clutch. I have a whopping $75ish left to finish the car.

And there's a lot of work to do yet.

 

Another point of reference, had a stage 2 xtd clutch with their flywheel, was very similar to stock but held my 220whp fine, slipped when it got covered in oil from my leaky rear main. Not saying theyre all perfect, but my stage 1 and stage 2 xtd’s were both tolerant of my lack of mechanical empathy and took it well. If youre limited by budget, throw that in.

 

sell the turbo kit.

 

No.

You do realize what the grm challenge is all about, right? If not, ill be happy to explain. But im assuming your comment was tounge in cheek. Or, "if you can't afford to do it right" based.

Also, out of recoup. I'm seriously maxed everywhere.....

 

just run the XTD.

The exedy with the right PP could hold close to 240rwtq. The XTD is most likely just that anyway.

The old ACT HD kit used to just be an exedy disc with a heavy pp.

 

no idea, unfortunately. Wasn't slipping that I could tell, but it was down to the rivets on the disc and the flywheel is hot spotted to beat hell.

However this is the kind of shenanigans that I was hoping for! I had briefly considered using the aftermarket pressure plate and the exedy stock clutch disc for a hybrid unit that may live better than a cheap eBay clutch disc. Had not thought about reusing the original pressure plate as I couldn't figure out a way to jig It Up level on the Bridgeport at work to turn it down flat again. Figured out how to do the flywheel on the Bridgeport.

And now that I'm typing this I think it would be much easier on the lathe even with the pedestals.

Is there anything I could measure to tell which pressure plate of the three that I have has the most clamping Force? The original orange one has no stampings or markings on it that I can find to tell me what brand it was.

 

Use the xtd pressure plate and disc, itll hold fine and not feel horrible

 

Being orange, it might be a Supermiata clutch...


I would try that PP and a new disc, see if that holds, else swap in the XTD. I remember doing clutch jobs in about 2 hours.

I have no idea how to measure the clamping force of a PP.