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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 11:24 PM
  #1  
vortamock's Avatar
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I've been reading and researching for several weeks now about the engine stall when letting off the throttle on a 1.6. I've read about several ways to get rid of this. I'll be installing my EMU within the next day or two. I've read about getting a VTPS, O2 clamp, wideband O2 sensor, greddy MAP sensor (4-bar), and that getting the MAP sensor means you can lose the MAF sensor. Is that true? or would I need to do the mod as per the sticky to get rid of it? and which is the best way when using an EMU?

I'm pretty sure not all of these need to be done. If I understand this correctly, I can get a wideband O2 and a 4-bar MAP sensor. Splice the MAP sensor output into the EMU MAF input and be done. This of course doesn't take any tuning into account since I haven't installed it yet and I won't understand it untill I play with it some.
Old Jul 23, 2008 | 04:53 AM
  #2  
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wtf is your setup

do some more reaserch. If you are refering to the problem of stalling because of a vta bov, recerc it. If you are not turbo yet and are just asking **** odd questions about stuff you heard about somewhere, you would be best to figure out what it actualy takes to remove your maf and run vta without stalling, or running rich between shifts(there is a really easy path towards that on this site but I dont feel like sharing it with you right now).
Old Jul 23, 2008 | 09:59 PM
  #3  
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didn't mean to frustrate you... I posted my entire setup and all the details and asked the same questions plus some in the thread titled "ok, so I just bought my first EMU... " but I think I typed too much trying to get all the details in and almost noone wanted to read it and therefor answer. I thought by typing less, maybe someone would feel like reading it. Normally everyone always says do research, but I've been looking and researching for at least an hour every night for about two weeks now and I'm still confused. I'll go ahead and copy over the setup as posted in the other thread. also, everything I mention I've read or heard somewhere is from one of 3 places: these forums, the miata.net forums, or the miata.net garage. I don't post often cause I normally find what I need before I have to. I've been reading the miata.net forums for several years and these forums for a little over a year. I was reading on here for several months before I registered. Had to register to post a question.

"Current stuff:
I've got 8.5 magnecors on the car with the stock plugs for the turboed mazdaspeed miata. I've currently got bipes installed. I didn't install it so It might be tricky taking it out... the car came with the turbo, bipes, and the current gauges.. but thats another long story. I don't remember what timing I run, but I just checked it and readjusted my bipes about 3 months ago (darn this short memory of mine). I have a set of 1.8L fuel injectors sitting in my room. I installed them once, but my car ran rich (according to my narrowband) and lost power so I took them back out. I'm currently at 6psi of boost. it sometimes spikes to 7 though. I have (sadly) the rx-7/ premade IC pipes from 15psi . com... and a blowoff valve of unknown origin which I dislike, but if I get a new one, I'll have to hold off on the wideband, which means the EMU install, till a much much much later date. It leaks boost at idle, and blows out oil as an extra special bonus. It also vents atmostpheric.. which I dont mind, but I'd rather do what's best for the car, which is currently to recirculate. I've been told the emanage will make it so the atmospheric vent thing isn't a problem.. hence fixing the idle droop. I have oil blowing through my intake pipes. I did the "tap the pan" thing (not the most professional job in the world, but it drains oil), tried putting a filter on on the hose opposite the pcv valve, wiggled the compressor blade (it didn't wiggle) and checked to see if the bolts holding the turbo together were loose.. they were not. Every response I've ever had to any inquiry about this has given me one of the above mentioned methods to fix it, or just gave up responding. Noone will admit that it's even possible for the seal in the turbo to go bad though. To no avail, it still blows oil and there are traces of oil on the side of the turbo (like it came from the non-loose bolts ) Also, I've got the PCV valve from the... I think it was a turbo 323.. I just remember its supposed to have a stiffer spring. I have currently installed the stock injectors, stock fuel pump, and vortec FPR.

right now I've got a 93 with a greddy turbo."
Old Jul 23, 2008 | 10:03 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by vortamock
It leaks boost at idle, and blows out oil as an extra special bonus. It also vents atmostpheric..

there's your problem...


also, the bov doesn't leak oil...it just happens to be an orifice that oil can escape....oil that shouldn't be there.....
Old Jul 23, 2008 | 10:08 PM
  #5  
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Yes, I hate my bov. Do you think it's more important to replace it than install the emu? If so I'll go order one now cause I know you know what you're talking about. I've done every fix I've come across to get rid of the oil, but it's persistant. I think the turbo seal might be leaking, but everyone I've asked swears it's not possible on the greddy... I'm pretty sure it is though. then again, the shaft doesn't have any play.

Edit: sry if that came off rude, I'm serious though. I just suck in the social skills department.
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