Hi all,

This is my first post so I better make it a decent one....

I have a Mazda with a 1993 BP 1.8L, I've done a fair bit of engine work which includes but not limited to


Wiseco Pistons
PAR Billet Rods
ARP Head studs
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod bolts
New Valve Springs
Sodium filled exhaust valves
2900lb heavy duty clutch plate
5 Puk clutch
TD06 turbine wheel with garrett H3T4b compressor wheel
SARD 800cc injectors
SARD Fuel Pressure Regulator
Adjustable cam wheels
TIAL 38mm wastegate
TIAL 50mm BOV
Link G3 ECU
Electronic Boost Control
75mm throttle body
Ported head
Custom intake
Custom exhaust manifold
and more I cant think of just now.

I would like some input on possible max power I should expect and highest revs I should set the ECU to.

I plan to run about 28psi (turbo efficiency dependant)

10 points if you can guess the Mazda model and year

 

thats a pretty heavy clutch plate.
Its a 1993 with a BP 1.8L. I want my 10 points now.

 

the motor is a 93 BP 1.8L, the car is not

Its a very heavy clutch, but after changing the slave cylinder to a Mazda Bongo Van slave, its made the pedal feel just as light as a standard clutch

 

y is the motor crooked?
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700 hp

1 rev.

 

RX-7

Strut towers are too far back and too high up to be a Miata.

 

Its like that to fit the CAS inder the fire wall



700hp would be nice but 1 rev? Cars do more than that with a very sick battery trying to start

Not an RX7

 

I hate these ******* guessing games....what car is it?

 

I know, I hate guessing games too.

Its not a Mazda Miata, although I am using parts from those cars, bell housing, water pipe etc. I came across this site while looking for solid lifters to run higher, more aggressive cam profiles. I may be an outsider on this site but I absolutly love Mazda's, hopefully that counts for something. Or is this a strictly Miata site?

 

you're no outsider as long as you dont **** people off....welcome to the forum man, I suggest making an intro thread in the noob section to start off on the right foot

 

323 or old style protege

 

Correct, 1987 Mazda 323 (BF5R)



I have posted in the noob section now

 

ok then my real answer is more like:

stick to 7000 rpm unless you put cams+valvetrain or a custom intake manifold in. then play it by ear above that. you want to stay in the realm of no valve float and reliability without seeing power drop off.

and as for power, the motor will tell you. it's all about how much fuel and chargecooling you'll have. and it looks like 800 cc injectors. which puts you right around 400 hp fuelwise. if that clutch can hold that much.

but you see why it's so hard to answer the question--too many variables.

however, you could probably tune it for 700 hp.... and it might do it... for a single rotation before it blows up.

 

That's a hell of a lot of high end parts in that motor. Heck of a project turning a FWD car into RWD. Everyone here will likely enjoy following your progress and results.

The guessing game thing didn't really work out. Instead why don't you tell us what your goals hopes dreams and aspirations are for the project!!!

Hope to see progress and results as you go along.

 

These are previous progress pics. My last dyno before the bigger turbo, bigger intercooler, better ECU, before the motor was turned, changed intakes/exhausts, ignition upgrades and more was only 300hp @ 4 wheels. The Electronic Boost Controller was not set up properly, the spring was too soft and wouldnt hold boost at 26psi. Sorry for the pic quality, it was all taken on an old camera phone

 

thats an interesting intake mani you got there

 

Wow, nice setup, a lot of work for sure. I know there have been some Escort rwd conversions.

 

And there is a local kid that runs a BP turbo in a Festiva, talk about crazy quick, but still fwd.

 

thats dope, i would never expect that if i pulled up to that car

 

why the change to rwd? did you feel that awd was inferior or did you just want to do something cool and have some fun.