For installing a Wilwood brake proportioning valve are those fittings really THAT hard to find that they cost $10 each from FM? Not bashing.

I just did a google seach and had good results. I'm going to cruise by a car shop on the way home and see what's in the fittings bins. If I have luck I'll grab some and pass them along to people in need.

What are they 1/8" NPT to M10?

 

i cant find just the fitting for less than 5$

 

1/8-27 NPT to m8 or m10, i cant remember.

 

M10. If you find another source for them, please let me know. We have to have the fittings custom made. Yes, they really are that hard to find.

It's weird - the SAE version is easily found and AN ones are fairly common, but the metric ones are like unicorn poop.

 

With Braineack's car, we found it easier to just make up a new hardline with the SAE end on it.

 

Yeah but that includes flaring, and some people are sketchy about doing that. Aren't brake lines double flared and easy to not get it nice and even?

Lets suppose someone just cut the tip of the OEM hardline off to remove the flare and slip the fitting off, slip your NPT fitting on it and double flare it again, would that suffice, or leak due to minor size differences and not a perfect match up?

 

I ended up having to do that, simply because I snapped one of the metric fittings. I bought a cheap *** tubing cutter and a double flaring tool. Cut off the flare, slipped on a 3/16" (IIRC) brake nut and reflared it. Seemed to work okay, I wouldn't have to want to do it on the car, luckily I just had to do the short line to the master.

Look Ma! No leaks!

 

Jeez... your brake fluid is like crystal clear. Did you just bleed the entire system out and refill w/ new when you installed your Prop. valve?

I think I'm going to do it the same way you did. Saves me like $20.

I have a flare tool already, so I guess I'll just read up somewhere on how to double flare. (or do you need an actual "double flare tool" like you mentioned?)

 

yeah i flushed the entire system, brake fluid was black beforehand; probably never changed before. (I might actually be empty in that picture )

yeah i bought a double fare tool, it folds the edge over itself. I would have just bought a new fitting, but I had to drive the car the next day.

 

I would hope you weren't empty-empty, isn't it some kind of witch craftery to run the system entirely empty during a flush/fill??

I just read up on double flaring and it seems you can do it w/ a standard flare tool if you have the correct anvil things to do the first flare. What size is the brake line, 5/16?

Sorry, I'm full of questions, just trying to save a buck.

 

3/16". Actually, I think it's 4mm, but 3/16" works just fine.

If you want to flare your own lines, then get a chunk of brake line from an auto parts store (or, if you're super-cheap, from a junkyard) and practice. Practice practice practice. Think about the consequences if you get it wrong! The key is the prep of the hard line. You need to chamfer the line inside and out and it has to be deburred and perfectly square. I've found the cheap flaring tools make it harder to form a good flare than the quality ones, and I've broken at least two of the cheapies in half.

I've installed a few of these valves by re-flaring. The problem is that if you have to go back to stock for some reason, you have to flare the lines again. And, of course, it requires specialized tools and specific skills to pull it off. Thus the bolt-in option, which has proven to be very popular amongst Miata and 240Z owners.

 

Yeah I totally understand the convenience of the bolt-in option. I'm a DIY'er though who is very mechanically inclined, it's electronics that scare me (I want MS so bad but I'm MS'ing my undies in fear). I'm a maintenance man by trade, so getting in there and fixing things cheaper than expected is my life.

 

that's when you ask someone like me to build one for you

/end self whoring.

 

But then I want to smack myself for not manning up and doing it myself on the cheap. I'm capable of soldering, regularly do it in fact. Just not capable of jumping the committment hurdle of risking engine failure due to an idiotic inaccuracy which is totally the fault of my own.

One of these days I'll grow a pair and either send you a check, or call DIYAutoTune and actually drive my car for the first time.