My head is getting a valve job (burned #4 exhaust), so, I figured I'll follow Braineack's coolant re-route.

He has TB water lines removed, and, I was wondering.
What's the downside to that, if any?

 

I think it and the little valve on the side of the intake manifold help with warmup idle and smoothness. Both of those are removed on my car and it runs fine. It's hard to find a good cap for the line though, I use the three pack available at NAPA and the like for $1.99, labeled as "vacuum caps" they fail about every 2-4 months, depending on how hot the engine gets. It's easier than removing the head, pulling out that barb, and tapping it for an NPT plug, which is what I'd like to eventually do.

 

So, I'm guessing, no issues with cold starts in freezing temps?

 

I've started my car plenty of times without issue in 20*F weather. I don't have the air valve either. One day I might go back and run the lines from the IM back to the water pump inlet just to remove the two nipples, those things always fail on me.

 

Thanks, guys.
That alleviates my worries.

 

I removed mine when I installed my coldside SC. When I pulled the kit and went back to NA, I didn't replace them. Never had a problem and no more hot TB to heat up intake air.

 

Frost can form on the throttle body and make the loud pedal stick open. I know this because when its really cold out I've had to pull the acceleratron up with my toe to halt impending death. I connected it. If its not cold when you drive it, delete it.

 

^^^This happens due to a venturi effect. I've had bike carbs freeze when air temps were above freezing due to the same thing. The lower pressure air passing through the throttle body is lower temp. Same basic law that dictates compressed air from turbo being hotter.

Should this happen to you, the solution is, as always, more boost.

 

Ya know, I was actually surprised at how cold DFW was in November.
I have two little toys that run (FZR1000 is waiting for its turn):
Miata & Mitsu GVR4.
But, the little blue car is so much more fun, despite Evo III 16G on the Galant.

So, the little beastie gets driven year round, washed twice a year, and beat upon at every track event I can finds.

I'll try the elimination process, as the heart has been out of the little **** long enough for the battery to crap out.
If it presents a problemo, I'll figure out a way to reconnect the lines.

Thanks all, again!

 

It also makes for an entertaining ride to work!

 

Are you referring to the caps you're using on the nipples (can we start saying barb please)? Those fail on me too, I drilled and tapped the one on the mixing manifold and put a NPT plug in it, but I'd have to remove the intake manifold to get to the other one, so I just replace it every month or two. We really need to find a good source for decent rubber plugs.

 

My solution to the little vaccum caps crapping out.

Short piece of heater hose like 2 inches, or less.. put on barb.. and put a bolt in the open end of the hose. add Two hose clamps Mine have lasted 2 years. daily driving.

This was my solution for the barb on the back of the head.

 

I've done that and my only issue is that it's ugly
I currently have two bright red zipties blocking off one of my vacuum barbs on my throttle body though

 

Are you guys talking about the coolant lines that run through the 1.6 TB? What vacuum lines are you guys talking about? I've debated getting rid of my "interwarmer".