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Doing 1st Miata Clutch All wwas well until I got to the bell housing

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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:13 AM
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Default Doing 1st Miata Clutch All wwas well until I got to the bell housing

Everything was easy until I got to the bell housing. I started with the 14mm on the starter, and it won't budge I have a 14mm on the other side, and I'm using huge breaker bar on the other side. Any suggestions I need to get this done before the weekend if possible.

Oh, I hadn't used any liquid wrench when I first tried, but I soaked all of the bolts at 6pm before I left for class today.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:25 AM
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soak it then have at it. what other advice is there?
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:31 AM
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When I'm having trouble getting a nut off, I usually just ask my boyfriend to help

Seriously though: 1. pull harder and 2. make sure you're going counter-clockwise.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:42 AM
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1st. I hope your a girl, a girl with a 200plus hp miata, because thats just Rad!

I am spinning counter clock wise, but the universal unit adapter I'm using has confused me before.

Originally Posted by pdexta
When I'm having trouble getting a nut off, I usually just ask my boyfriend to help

Seriously though: 1. pull harder and 2. make sure you're going counter-clockwise.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:44 AM
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Sounds like thats about it.

Originally Posted by 18psi
soak it then have at it. what other advice is there?
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 01:07 AM
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You might try putting the wrench on the transmission side and the breaker bar on the engine side, stick it out the wheel well, then put a cheater bar (jack handle usually works for me) on your breaker bar. If that fails, it's time for an impact wrench.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 02:56 AM
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I'll give this a try in the morning, I'm a little worried though if this is the first one, I'm a bit screwed, I don't have a compressor or air tools. Although I can try the handle of my hi-lift jack like I did for the axle nuts.

Originally Posted by boileralum
You might try putting the wrench on the transmission side and the breaker bar on the engine side, stick it out the wheel well, then put a cheater bar (jack handle usually works for me) on your breaker bar. If that fails, it's time for an impact wrench.

Last edited by apariah; Mar 12, 2010 at 03:08 AM.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 03:04 AM
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Make sure you remove that coolant temp sensor, because if you don't when your engine rocks back, its gonna break. Then the part is 30 bucks from autozone.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 03:23 AM
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What coolant temp sensor and what rocking back and forth?
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 07:57 AM
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A small hammer can create enough vibration sometimes to help a bolt come free. Some other times a bigger hammer and punch is needed. I have gotten loose lugs on semi wheels after hitting them with a sledge hammer a few times that a 1" impact could not budge before hitting them.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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use anti-seize when you put stuff back together.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by hustler
use anti-seize when you put stuff back together.

or get lazy and leave off 1 or two like i do.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
or get lazy and leave off 1 or two like i do.
Or use impact wrench and don't have any issues with bolts.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 10:05 AM
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PB Blaster works miracles.

I saw a test once where they listed the ft-lbs of torque required to loosen a stuck bolt treated with different stuff like PB, Liquid Wrench, WD-40, and untreated.

Untreated was over 1000ft-lbs, while the treated ones were 25-50% of this.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 11:09 AM
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Definitely drill holes in the transmission
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 11:16 AM
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You may want to just stop being a *****

just an idea
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:03 PM
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I bought an electric impact for that sort of stuff.... its the best 50 bucks I ever spent
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:16 PM
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PB Blaster... /thread.
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Preluding
I bought an electric impact for that sort of stuff.... its the best 50 bucks I ever spent
I stopped being a ***** and hit the gym.

Best 30/month I ever spent
Old Mar 12, 2010 | 02:24 PM
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You should be able to get those bolts off with a 1/2 drive socket and driver...

I still recommend the impact... its a lot faster then moving a driver back and forth.

unless your 18psi of course



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