Engine rear main seal
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Hey guys,
I'm going to be doing my clutch this coming weekend. Is this what I need to do my rear main seal? Should I be using a genuine Mazda part? Thanks
Auto Parts Online Canada
I'm going to be doing my clutch this coming weekend. Is this what I need to do my rear main seal? Should I be using a genuine Mazda part? Thanks
Auto Parts Online Canada
I personally prefer Mazda parts for seals like that.
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Yep I would use the factory seal, or in a pinch, a known good brand like Felpro or the like.
The rear main seal is an easy job BTW. The rear main cap does not even have to be loosened. The usual precautions about driving in a seal still apply.
The rear main seal is an easy job BTW. The rear main cap does not even have to be loosened. The usual precautions about driving in a seal still apply.
Hijacking this as I'm going to be doing my clutch in the next few weeks
Is there any merit to "if it's not leaking leave it alone" ?
It's not the cost or time its making sure the new one goes in fine and does a better job that the one thats presently not leaking.
If I proceed with the new seal I dont want to nick any surfaces while taking the old one out. Is the screw method still the best if your careful ?
Is there any merit to "if it's not leaking leave it alone" ?
It's not the cost or time its making sure the new one goes in fine and does a better job that the one thats presently not leaking.
If I proceed with the new seal I dont want to nick any surfaces while taking the old one out. Is the screw method still the best if your careful ?
Replace it while you're in there.
Comes out easy with dental picks.
Put some oild in ziploc and "roll" new seal through oil before install. Leave in baggie until ready to avoid picking up dirt.
Tap in with old seal on top, with flat board on top of that.
Comes out easy with dental picks.
Put some oild in ziploc and "roll" new seal through oil before install. Leave in baggie until ready to avoid picking up dirt.
Tap in with old seal on top, with flat board on top of that.
Unless your name is Braineak and you derive a sick satisfaction from dropping trannies, you should do the seal regardless of leak status. The biggest mistake people make is pushing the new seal in too far. There is a great writeup in the m.net garage... I believe it specifically says the seal just needs to be flush with the rear face of the block, or maybe inset like 1mm, but no farther. Read up. Be sure to dab a little oil around the edget before pushing it in place, and push slowly and evenly so it doesn't get even the littlest big ****-eyed.
This came up as I helped a friend do a clutch job on his 90 which was the 1st clutch job for both of us.
I saw the seal, and so I dont need to touch anything else - as in the half moon part that is permatexed on ?
Also looking in his bellhousing the front tranny seal is behind that cap the is bolted on ?? Is it the same basic design for the 6 spd ?
Thanks again!!
" push in too far"
ps - lets just say I pushed in my crank seal to far on my CRF450R bike and that was a waste of a $30 seal as pulling it back destroyed it - wahh, I dont want to do that again !
I saw the seal, and so I dont need to touch anything else - as in the half moon part that is permatexed on ?
Also looking in his bellhousing the front tranny seal is behind that cap the is bolted on ?? Is it the same basic design for the 6 spd ?
Thanks again!!
" push in too far"
ps - lets just say I pushed in my crank seal to far on my CRF450R bike and that was a waste of a $30 seal as pulling it back destroyed it - wahh, I dont want to do that again !
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