I was out tuning my idle today and I noticed for the first time ever my coolant temps topped 200. While cruising around (and doing a few full power starts) the temps were around 205-210. Then I let the car sit for about 10 minutes idling and they climbed all the way to 219.

I know these temps are still within normal operating temps (albeit a bit high) but could they be from the intercooler blocking the radiator?

Thanks!

 

Possibly, pics of your IC/Rad setup would help

 

That and the stock radiator sucks and should be replaced with a larger one in your climate if you are making more power than stock

 

sounds like your fans aren't coming on.




but of course a huge IC in front of your rad could cause temps to increase.

 

It's not a large intercooler, here's a pic (please excuse the quality):


I am on the stock radiator but I just tried running the fans in parallel. It looks like that helped a lot as a never saw temps go above 200. Stopped at idle they did reach 197 for a few seconds before dropping back down to 194. When moving they stayed between 187 and 191. The only reason I mention this is I wouldn't imaging the fans do much above 30mph so I don't understand the drop. I might just need to monitor it for a few days and see.

What do you guys think of the MIZU or Mishimoto all aluminums? I know it's not the best rad out there but I am on a budget right now and with only 7lbs I would hope it's enough for $240.

 

time to fix your fans...

 

I'm very pleased with my Mishimoto.

 

What do you mean? They are both working and coming on at proper temperature. They also seem to be running at normal speed. I'm not sure what I need to fix on them. Although I have considered making a lexan shroud and using two slimline fans.

 

no reason you should be overheating when the fan comes on.

 

Let me get this straight, when you turned on the fan that's not blocked by a gigantic fog light or block of aluminum (intercooler) it actually worked?!? Get out!

Ditch the fog lights, run your stock fans in parallel with a mishimoto radiator. Yes we like them, I race mine and it's great, especially with a reroute. Just don't use the crappy radiator cap that comes with it.

 

I say check your cap and thermostat and ensure the fans are in fact coming on.

 

And get rid of those lights. Not only do they block airflow but when turned on add 55W each of heat.

 

I like the way you think.

I know the stock radiator sucks but I'm going to try a coolant reroute and parallel fans. See what it do.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to ditch the fog lamps and get a new cap tomorrow. I know the fans work cause I've watched them turn on with my own eyes .

The thermostat is a brand new 180. I ran a 160 for a while although the car WOULD NOT reach operating temp so I took it out. I've been driving around and working on my AC idle and I haven't seen it jump above 200 yet. In fact during cruise it sits at 186 which I know is too cool.

It's amazing. I set out this morning to make my AC work with the mspnp (which I still haven't accomplished) and ended up with a complete rethink of my cooling system. I've also got everything I need for the reroute I just need to find time to put it in.

I'm also considering creating some kind of shroud. I had to remove the black plastic one (not the undertray but the one that fits in the mouth of the car) and it won't go back in with the IC. Perhaps I could pickup a sheet of aluminum and creating a new one that will assist with airflow from the fans.

 

OP, I just did an Mtuned reroute and the parallel fan mod and found clt readings to be about 10C lower on average. I've got a stock rad and a begi #2 intercooler (completely fills the "mouth" opening) with no shrouding or undertray.

At 8psi I'm seeing 0 increase in IAT and max 1C increase CLT under sustained boost. With fans coming on at 88C I'm seeing 95C operating temps and as low as 92C with the heater on.

Pre reroute and fan mod my clt was pegged at 102C operating with the heater on full blast but again I've got a more obstructive intercooler.

 

You need something in the mouth. Air should not be permitted to go around the radiator once it has entered the mouth.
Ontario, meet Atlanta. It has been 92*F (33*C) this week in Atlanta except for when it rained and it isn't even summertime yet. I think he's going to need a little extra effort to keep cool. He's going to need every trick in the book when he starts running it hard. The M-tuned reroute you suggested is a really good idea for him.

 

I suppose I should've qualified my readings, taken at 25C ambient with 90% humidity. I've also got AC but you guys probably have that as well, being down south.

On a fwd turbo bp I had I was using a single probe gt fan, an atx (2.5x as thick and 10% longer) rad, and my intercooler only covered 30% of the openings in the front of the car (vs 100%). That car got too warm but only in track conditions, street was fine but with way more mouth / grill opening area.

 

I have a minor issue with cooling too.
I just did the fmic and turbo together so im not sure which caused it.

My heating issue is that it gets quite hot (110) and then it seems the thermostat opens and it drops back to operating and holds steady there.

Thing is, brand new oem thermostat and water pump. no leaks, and the cooling system has been bled.

 

Have you considered a 180F (82C) thermostat?

 

I suppose.
What would i ask for in a parts store, or at mazda?
I would like this to go away.... i was thinking about drilling some bypass holes in the side of it so it always has a little flow.