Brake pedal that is. I've been bleeding the brakes conventionally for the 3 years I've had the car. Brake pedal never was as firm as I thought it should be. I've cycled the ABS and all the other little things when I've bled the brakes but the pedal always felt the same. I bought one of those $25 vacuum pumps from HF and tried it this morning. Worked GREAT! Much better pedal now.

Crappy story but it's been a thorn in my side for years. I was happy a cheap tool from HF actually did the job.

 

Congrats. So viagra DOES work?

 

Viagra? Damn! I always thought it was Vigoro. It seemed strange they sold it so cheap and had it in the garden section. I guess that explains the tomato's in my pants.

 

Mine broke after 2 uses.

 

New sig.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MVP-0108/?rtype=10

Once you use one, you'll never look back

 

Does that work for bleeding clutch hydraulics too?

 

Shoot, if only this would make other project easier for you. Like, I dunno, installing SS lines?

Buy me a six pack, I'll come help.

 

Both the one the OP posted and the one I did will. One sucks, while the other just blows......... Kind of sounds like a few of my Ex's

 

I have a MityVac from harbor freight, and would say the one in post #6 is still the absolute best way to bleed hydraulic systems.

 

Or you can make your own, if the price is right:

http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

However for some reason, logically, it seems to make more sense to apply vacuum to the downstream side rather than to apply pressure to the upstream side?

 

Now you should make a master cylinder brace.
It made a bigger improvement than stainless break lines on my 7. Cost me $10 to make an an hour of my time. When you hit the breaks the biggest point of softness felt is from the firewall flexing, but you never see it so no one addresses it. The fire wall sees hundreds of lbs of pressure when you hit the breaks hard; just this little brace made a world of difference.

 

So you changed brake fluid (again) without getting your SS lines installed (again) ? Only would have taken you another hour. I finally got mine installed, and I have less garage time than any car guy I know

 

So do you still need to bench bleed the master (assuming removed) if you use a vacuum to bleed your clutch?

 

In all the years I've been wrenching, I've never bench bled anything. PITA and makes a mess.

 

Do they sell a miata-specific adapter?

 

No clue. I have a 929 master/booster that takes the same cap as the Wilwood clutch master cylinder cap.... which happens to be the same as the stock F-body T56 reservoir cap.

 

+1

 

Not until the top pops off and sprays everything with a fine mist of brake fluid, at least. I'm also told that putting compressed air on top of the fluid tends to make bubbles.

The best power bleeder I've seen was made by MAC -- you hook it up the bleeder screw, then blow compressed air through a venturi to create a vacuum and it sucks the fluid out of the caliper. Spendy, though, and you need a pretty studly compressor to keep it running.

--Ian

 

Curly and Moby,

thanks for all the love! Just swapped in the mini-pooper Dynapro wilwood kit I got from Savington, stainless lines were required. I'll be doing the rears this week to balance things out. It should only be a 15 minute job now that I'm practiced. I'll have to come up with some other unfinished projects for you guys. How about the door bars I've had since before Christmas sitting on the shelf?