Refreshed 1.6l with rough idle, need help.
Since internet troubleshooting sucks more dick than monica lewinsky im going to post a brief description of my problem, but i want someone to come and actually help me fix the damn thing. In return you will receive shop time with complementary lift usage.
Why: My old engine was burning oil something terrible so i bought a motor from the junkyard(saw it run before i bought it, 91k on it), and installed all new seals everywhere.
The problem: Rough *** idle, with some richness. But my power band feels normal out of idle.
What ive done already: swapped injectors, check for vacuum leaks, base timing is fine, fiddled with the CAS, swapped plugs, wires, and coils.
Still have a shitty idle.
If you have the ability to come help me just send me a PM, you will be rewarded.
Edit: here's a short video of the problem http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/vid...50607080108601
Why: My old engine was burning oil something terrible so i bought a motor from the junkyard(saw it run before i bought it, 91k on it), and installed all new seals everywhere.
The problem: Rough *** idle, with some richness. But my power band feels normal out of idle.
What ive done already: swapped injectors, check for vacuum leaks, base timing is fine, fiddled with the CAS, swapped plugs, wires, and coils.
Still have a shitty idle.
If you have the ability to come help me just send me a PM, you will be rewarded.
Edit: here's a short video of the problem http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/vid...50607080108601
Was this motor from an auto trans car? I hear their is a nipple underneath the intake manifold that was used for the auto trans on these cars, and needs to be capped if put on a MT car.
Just guessing. Otherwise, is it your stock AFM? What happens when you unplug the AFM while its idling? Any difference?
I'm sure some other gurus will be in here to further help.
Just guessing. Otherwise, is it your stock AFM? What happens when you unplug the AFM while its idling? Any difference?
I'm sure some other gurus will be in here to further help.
No it was a manual. I got the car as a whole to have a spare trans, and diff in my ever growing parts inventory. I think i might need new seals where my injectors meet my manifold, they looked a little dry and small for my tastes. Im not sure if it will help, but at this point i need to get the car running. Also need to fix that exhaust leak from the header to the cat. Granted the whole exhaust is shot and i need a whole new set up(time to get a turbo manifold lol).
Going to give this my full attention tomorrow, its my day off.
Going to give this my full attention tomorrow, its my day off.
Fixed a pretty big vacuum leak, and messed with my timing advance a little more with the CAS. It still idles rough, so im thinking i need new injectors. Might pick up some 1.8l injectors my next pay check.
If the injectors were good prior to swap you are running down the wrong problem. Keep hunting vac leaks. I would suggest a simple vac gauge tapped at the manifold to start with. You can probably get something like:
from advance auto in the burg.
The JR intake isnt on the car but you're right i should check over that wiring, i could have broken a connection while doing the swap. going to check that tonight and maybe swap out my fuel pressure regulator.
Right now the biggest symptom i have is running mad tyte rich.
Right now the biggest symptom i have is running mad tyte rich.
The manifold is fine no little ports uncovered. Im going to swap out the fuel pressure regulator this weekend and maybe that will help. Because ive swapped EVERYTHING else over. After this iono probably sawzall...
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